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11-11-2009, 12:02 PM
Just bought a 95 red ZJ 5.2.
I will add pics tonight. Installed the 2" BB and added the hight lift brackets. Didn't take pics of it stock. We all know what they look like.
Plans are going to be in stages because I have 4 daughter and they are expensive. Hehehhe.
Stage 1:
2" BB **done**
32" tires
bumpers trimmed and bedlined**done**
hi lift mounts **done**
shovel mounts
add a winch (received mounted for front and back).
Stage 2:
add 5" IRO springs in front, (fronts to back w/spacers)
long shocks
brake lines
35" tires (I have them just need to make room)
more triming
Stage 3:
IRO front long arms
7" springs
rear home fabbed rear 3 link. (wishbone)
37 or 39" IROKS
AXLE Swap rear 14 bolt, front dana 60
5.13 R&P
Hope to be there by snowmelt 2010.
Live in Citrus heights, CA and plan on trips to the RUBI monthly.
11-11-2009, 12:06 PM
does stage 2 include control arms?
11-11-2009, 01:05 PM
no stage three is the when I go with the long arms. It will be about a 1 month period between when I rock the stock arms. I know, I know. Most likely no wheeling will be done till I have the long arms anyways since it will be winter.
11-11-2009, 01:30 PM
mkay, well then my 2 cents would be to skip stage 2 and hold the parts until you've got everything to knock out stage 3.
stock arms at 5" lift will be borderline un-driveable.
11-11-2009, 01:45 PM
Cool, thanks for the advise. Anyone have sucess with adjustable short arms in the back with the long arms in the front? or is just crap. IRO sells a set up like that and just wanted opinions.
11-11-2009, 01:45 PM
So you want to buy 5" springs one month then 7" the next? Ok, then just sell me the 5" springs for a lower cost later.
But seriously, skip stage 2, or better yet, get the 5" springs, and dont get the 7" springs ever. 35"s will fit fine with 5" and trimming.
11-11-2009, 01:47 PM
The angle of the rear control arms when they are short make for a bad ride, but in the front short arms are much worse. Be very carefull with your upper control arm mounts on the body, those things rip off with 31"s sometimes, 35"s are a heavy tirre for stock body mounts.
11-11-2009, 01:56 PM
Thanks guys, always open to advise and critisizm. I'm thinking stage 2 will just include the long arms in front with the 5" springs. That would eliminate the upper control arms all together. Then tough it out in the rear till I make the three link in the rear with balistic joints.
11-11-2009, 05:03 PM
Originally Posted by Joe Lynch
That's a better plan
11-11-2009, 05:14 PM
Unless you're super opposed to trimming, I'd recommend going to 5", longarms up front to start. 3 link the rear when you get time, and wheel the 35s at that height. basically what you've mentioned.
if you break a lot or are unhappy with the ground clearance, think about tons and 37s-39s. IMO i would trim to fit tire size from there instead of going any taller, but i'm in the the-lower-the-better crowd.....but then again, so is anyone who likes staying rubber side down.
11-11-2009, 05:19 PM
Speaking as someone that went straight from a 2" BB to a 4.5" long arm -- try to duplicate as little work as possible.
My suggestion:
Stage 1:
2" BB, 32s, and the other stuff you mentioned.
Stage 2:
Long arms (front AND rear), 4.5-5" lift, 35s. 35s will be difficult to fit with stock control arms plus you may not be happy with the condition of the control arms and control arm mounts when you get to this stage. 8.8 or 44 rear (a dana 35 and 35" tires doesn't seem to sit well with me). Lockers.
Stage 3 (when you start breaking stuff on 35s):
1 ton axle swap. Bigger tires.
Last edited by SirFuego; 11-11-2009 at 05:35 PM.
Originally Posted by SB406
11-11-2009, 05:33 PM
^^^That right there is the right way to do it IMO. I did 3-4 different stages.....not cheap.
11-12-2009, 12:31 AM
yeah, on the axles I'm swaping strait to tons when the time comes. No point in breaking the 44's. I like to play hard and would rather not worry bout it breaking. For the Norcal guys we are going up to Fordyce creek nov 21-22 and y'all are welcome to ride with us. I will be rocking my buddy's yoda on this one. 33-35" tires minimum on this trip fo sho, its hard-core. PM me if you want to roll with us.
11-12-2009, 12:41 AM
Mine has the 44a not that it makes it much tougher than the 35
11-12-2009, 01:03 AM
Was it swapped in after the fact? 44a's only came in the 96-98 V8 ZJs...
Originally Posted by SB406
11-14-2009, 10:55 PM
my stage two was 4.5 inches on stock arms and it was scary, it didn't wheel too well either. i blew out the bushings within a few months and it would deathwobble all the time. don't do it!
11-18-2009, 02:21 PM
Nothing exciting going on. Cancelling my Fordyce trip because my rear main seal is pissing a quart of oil at a time so have to spend my weekend fixing that. Bummer.
11-18-2009, 02:28 PM
but your ridin shotgun! Leave that sh*t for after the trip haha
11-19-2009, 03:13 AM
Yeah, I would but it got worse. Track bar mount on the axle wallowed out, knuckles are wallowed out at the tie rods, time to either but new knockles or flipp the tie rods. Anyone know the best setup for fliping the tie rod? just ream them and flip them? Inserts for the other side? Let a brother know. My ish is effed with major death wobble.
12-02-2009, 01:37 PM
Scored a set of rock crawler steel wheels on the cheap so I dont have to run the adapters when I redo my steering. Gotta love Craigslist. Contemplating mounting the 35" tires and running them and doing the competion cut because I am still on the 2" lift.
Anyone run 35" tires on a 2" BB? Dont want to do the springswap until I get the ajustable trackbars and longer shocks/brake lines.
12-02-2009, 01:59 PM
that's gunna be hard to do man. I'm lookin at puttin 35"s on a stock cherokee for a buddy, so far we've cut the fenders front and rear, cut out a lot of inner fender out front and removed the entire rear wheel well...gunna be a tight fit when it comes down to it but I think it'll work
12-02-2009, 02:19 PM
That is going to be real difficult especially in the rear behind the back doors, but post up some pics once you get it to work!
12-02-2009, 05:08 PM
I'm running 33s with about 2" of lift. Ditch the bumper covers and splash guards. The rear is the easy part - you definitely don't need any kind of comp cut, just the usual trimming and a few inches of bump stops. I really don't think 35s would work with stock control arms, at least not in front. I've got stock arms on the front of mine right now, and the 33s rub the back of the wheelwell/ firewall at not quite full lock at ride height even with significant sledging and cutting out everything not "necessary". If you pushed the axle forward a little bit, it might be doable, but it would be a ton of work. Either way, I wouldn't trust stock arms and mounts with 35s on steel wheels.
Originally Posted by CrawlerReady
01-12-2010, 07:19 PM
Scored a 231 Transfer case with a slip yoke eliminator. It's like a 2 for 1 deal. Woot!!! So I will be reading up on the conversion so I can dump that Lamo 249. Now just have to save up some scratch for a new rear driveline.
03-24-2010, 07:11 PM
Ok Im here where are the pics of 35's with the bb
Quote:
Stock wheelbase. I am going to long arm and 4 link it because it is real tight, especially in front. The rear is trimmed right to the door edge and there is plenty of room. Im pushing the rear axle back 5" and the front forward at least 4" so i can get 39" on there by next "rubicon" season. It runs, stops, and turns fine (except the death wobble which is from my loose steering). The front barely rubs but I am going to dove nose it and that problem will be gone. I will post pics in my build thread. Now I will stop whoring your thread, sorry man.
ed: I reread my post and it sounds a little dickish so I want to clarify. I just want to see the pics as I am a low lift big tire kind of guy.
Last edited by Jeeptech01; 03-24-2010 at 07:13 PM.
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