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Don't even have the rig yet, but I'm scouring CL daily and starting to firm up some plans for the new rig. Also need to get my shop built so I can actually have a place to work on it, but here's a quick rundown on the why and what.
I've been wheeling my current ZJ for 14 years and it shows. Obviously hacking off the roof and welding it back on 5 years later played a role in this, but a lot of it is just plain wear and tear on the unibody from years of wheeling. I have the typical cracks below the tail lights, doors barely open and close, and the unibody rails are wrinkling up against the Clayton's rear control arm mounts on both sides. The interior is okay all things considered, but the structure I have in place to reinforce the unibody inside makes it tricky to really configure the interior the way I want. I don't regret welding a roof back on to it, it has served me quite well and that part worked way better than I ever imagined it could. My hang up on all of this is that the drivetrain has been amazing in my ZJ. The engine and tranny have been flawless the whole time I've owned the ZJ. And I don't have any weird electrical gremlins. The muscles and brain are still performing great, but the skeleton is beginning to collapse around everything else.
I want a rig that I can run some of the more aggressive trails, but still be comfortable on a week long expedition style trip pulling my tent trailer. I've shied away from trails like Pritchett to try to prolong the life of the parts on my rig. The open HP30 is certainly a weak point in capability and reliabilty on the harder trails, but it hasn't held me back on milder trails, and the ONLY breakage I've had on the 30 is a chipped tooth on the ring gear a few years back. I'm still running the same stock 297 TJ u-jointed shafts I bought in 2002, with the same u-joints.
So my plan is to effectively start over. Use what has worked for me, and change what hasn't worked. I am on the prowl for another ZJ, and hope to begin work on it this fall. I could have done all of this back when I welded the roof back on, but did not have the facilities to really do this right without impacting a lot of stuff around the house. Soon I will have an almost 700 sq ft dedicated shop where I will have plenty of room and can let a project sit for a while if needed.
I will start by basically stripping everything off the rig. Axles, suspension, interior, not sure yet on motor and tranny. My plan is to cut out the rockers, weld new Clayton's brackets on, and then work on reinforcing the unibody rails bumper to bumper with plates and crossmembers.. I will likely make some sort of cage, along the lines of what Ryan did on Trucks! and what Darrick has done on the IRO WJ. I want to make this strong, but not super heavy.
I am in the brainstorming process right now for interior storage. I want something mostly built-in, with space for a fridge for the expo trips, and storage for lots of tools, parts, and fluids. The spare will move to a rear tire carrier bumper too to free up interior space. I want the storage to be organized, easy to acces, and flexible. Ideally I will find a way to get our 2 85lb labs in the ZJ with all of this stuff too. My plan is to completely pull the backseats, similar to what I've done on the current ZJ, and build out the interior keeping as much of the interior panels in place as possible, and working around some potential interior cage pieces.
All of this is going to make the ZJ substantially heavier than it currently is. This makes me worry about the HP30 and how long it will last. I don't plan to go any bigger than 35's, so I'm leaning towards a HP44 front with a selectable locker.
I'm going to wait until the last minute possible to start disassembling my ZJ as I would like to still be able to wheel while working on this project and really have no clue how long this will all take me.
My goal is that everything I have learned from building and wheeling my ZJ the last 14 years will help me start from scratch and eliminate the weak points that I currently have.
I run a HP44 with an ARB and really love it. I think John runs this set up too. A couple things to consider is that the HP44 is full width and will require you to cut and turn the inner C's to get the caster and pinion angle right. I opted to cut it down to wagoneer width since I had to cut the C's anyway.
Another option would be a JK axle. Minus the early tube issues the Rubicon JK 44 is reported to be stronger than the old school 44. Justin was sporting a JK axle in his new WJ, I think Derrick is running JK axles f/r on the IRO WJ.
If you're considering running a rear carrier make sure you plate/reinforce all the way to the rear bumper. Most ZJ owners report stress cracks in the unibody on the rear bumper tie ins.
Since you are pulling the rear seats maybe you could build a carpeted deck in back, say 8" above the floor and have drawers under it in the rear and flip up hatches where the rear seats were. Then the dogs can lay on the deck.
Some random contributions.
Seems a trend to go back down to 35s rather than go larger to 37plus. Therefore I agree with the 35s.
Considering tire size is 35s then a HP 44 will be a good axle choice for advance level trails like Pritchet.
I also feel your HP 30 will be ok too, however you will want 30 spline shafts if you lock it. Considering those are custom and therefore pricey. I vote the HP44 unless you get a some sort of deal.
If running a HP 44 I suggesting going with something that has commonly available parts, In particular shafts and hubs.
Overall I like the one up approach. Either build axles for larger size tire than you plan to run, or run a size smaller tire than the axles you have.
Small contribution: use the thinnest tire you can find for a spare to save weight and space.
So as far as the interior goes, I really like some of the things I saw in a build over on ExPo. A little beyond what I really want, but I like the basic concept on his storage box.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...uot-SHTFV-quot
Early Bronco axles.
HP44, 9" combo
Will fit under the zj without too much work, I've setup a ZJ this way for a friend and it's proven to work quite well, currently running 35"s
if I was to start over today, I'd go JK all the way and build the shit out of it.
Also agree on the above HP44, 9" combo with 35's. Have a friend with a TJ doing the same thing except with 36's. I used to beat the snot out of my YJ on that combo with 37" MTR's. Worked great.
But with hindsight in mind, get a Toyota!
Interior cage in a ZJ was a huge regret. Being a big guy myself, I would never go that route again, can't imagine you would either Dave.
Yeah I remember sitting in your rig thinking "nope, couldn't do that!" so that's why I plan on doing the a-pillar outside with a roof halo, and have it come inside a little behind the b-pillar for an X-brace, and maybe again at the c-pillar with down bars to the frame at the d-pillar.
I need to add a cage to fix mine
Yep, straighten it again, then weld it all up. I'm prepared to loose the back seat.
Dave, I loved the hybrid interior/exterior cage I had in my 94, it allowed me all the room in the front I needed, and give the cage more rigidity than a straight exo cage. Biggest problem, is that hybrid cage was heavy, I had to add 1" spacers to get my ride height back.
Yeah the overall weight is my biggest concern at this point and one of the primary reasons I'm considering a drivetrain beefier than the HP30/8.8 that has done me so well for so long. I figure between the cage and the interior storage I am going to be adding a LOT of weight.
The weight was one of the reasons I went with a Waggy 44 in the front. I also went with BDS springs because they had the highest spring rate I could find, but even with the stiffer springs, the jeep was very "bouncy" with all the weight.
cool. It starts.
Sweet! Is it going to be the first build in the new shop or last build in the garage?
First build in the new shop. Nowhere near enough room in the current garage to pull this off. The new shop will have room to disassemble the blue ZJ while the green ZJ sits right next to it.
NO DISASSEMBLE!!
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