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Thanks, it's good to be back, and wheeling again!
Snake Lake trail July 2011:
Made it through some nasty drifts, but were denied near the summit at Big Tree:
A few updates on the rig.
ZJ washer tank.
Trimmed the front a little where the tires rubbed. I'll have to cut more when I go to 35's. Painted wheel background and lower body black, and installed some factory front tow hooks.
Finally got my rear bump stop extensions done. No more shocks bottoming out!
Last edited by renojeepster; 01-12-2012 at 02:41 PM.
Got some roof top storage, since I often go out with my G.F. three kids, and the dog. Doesn't leave much room inside for camping gear.
Ditched the 8.6" travel front shocks that came with the IRO 4" kit, modified the lower mount, and installed some 10" travel 5150's. Gained a solid 1-1/2" of droop. Dropped a front coil out with short arms.
Current pic December 2011:
Wheeling at the Moonrocks December 2011:
Last edited by renojeepster; 01-05-2012 at 07:22 PM.
So, I have been stock piling parts and will be putting it under the knife soon. I will be installing Claytons long arms, IRO drop trackbar bracket, drag link and tie rod flip, NP231 t-case with 6 gear planetary, AAdapters 32 spline main shaft and fixed yoke, Ford 9" rear w/ 4.56 gears and ARB, new rear driveshaft.
The front Varilock 30 will stay up front for now. I sourced another axle and pulled the front axle assemblies for trail spares. I removed all the crap under the rear seats and dented the floor enough to fit them under the rear seats.
Last edited by renojeepster; 03-24-2013 at 03:41 AM.
Finished my drag link and tie rod flip this weekend using the GoFerIt inserts, and a RHD drag link end. Had to clearance a few spots, but eventually got everything to clear.
Installed IRO's track bar drop bracket to keep my steering geometry correct. With 4" of lift the IRO adjustable track bar hits the diff cover. I ordered a 1.25" die so I can add some bend to the top of the bar. In the meantime, I reinstalled the stock track bar, which worked good, except it is about 1/4" too short to center the axle.
I can't believe how good this thing feels. Bumps that used to try and induce death wobble, now I can't even feel in the steering wheel.
Better clearance:
Stock track bar back in for now:
Steering angles are nearly stock. No bump steer, and No hint of wobble:
Last edited by renojeepster; 01-11-2012 at 02:20 AM.
So, being a full time Engineering student, and a single dad of 3 boys, with the WJ being our daily driver means progress has been slow. I have been making some progress, however.
Finished sealing up the rear floor from the gas tank raise. I ended up using part of a Rubbermaid container and a bunch of polyurethane sealant to cover the evap system:
Built some storage for all the gear, installed some on board air, and kept it so my dog can ride in the back:
Got my ham licence and added an FT-8800 dual band for trail communications:
Last edited by renojeepster; 03-24-2013 at 03:14 AM.
Pulled out the leaky 247 t-case:
Swapped the input shaft from the 247 into my 231:
Newly rebuilt 231 with Advanced Adapters 32 spline output and speed sensor that will replace my speed signal after the axle swap:
I ended up taking the shift arm from the 231, flipping it upside down, cutting it in half and welding half of the 247 linkage to it. Works great:
Got my Clayton long arm parts finally. Installing the cross member:
Rear link brackets and frame stiffeners:
Everything works great! I will be modifying shock mounts to run 13" travel 6100 Bilsteins and adding limit straps when I swap in the 9" rear axle:
What a difference ditching my stock arms finally. This thing handles like stock again. Everything works great, and I installed 90* zerk fittings, and rotated the Johnny joints so the zerk fittings are up, after this picture was taken:
Made a little modification to the stock front control arm mounts. Should help keep them from getting hung up so much, until I get the 44 installed with high clearance brackets:
Last edited by renojeepster; 03-26-2013 at 04:36 PM.
New axles are coming together. I ended up going with a high pinion Dana 44 H.D. out of a '78 F250 for the front axle. Not as cool as the 609 I wanted to build, but a lot cheaper.
Rear Axle:
Ford 9" from an '85 E-150 van. WMS-WMS 67.5"
31 spline ARB air locker and 4.56 gears.
Stock shafts.
TeraFlex rear disk brake kit w/e-brake.
Clayton Offroad 4 link truss and WJ bracket kit.
Front Axle:
High pinion D44 from a '78 F-250. WMS-WMS 66.5" (+ .5" spacers to match rear width)
GM flat top knuckles with high steer using GM 1 ton ends.
Ford 5x5.5" hubs and rotors.
ARB air locker and 4.56 gears.
30 spline chromoly shafts and CTM u-joints.
Clayton Offroad WJ bracket kit.
Rear axle torn down ready for new brackets. Front mocked up with new hubs, ready to tear down.
This thing has been a great daily driver, and weekend warrior!
I cant wait to finally ditch these 32" tires for some 35's when I swap axles.
I will be running the 13" travel 6100 Bilsteins all around soon to take advantage of these long arms:
That's the same axle choice I want to run, but that won't be for a while...
Check out BigGoofy's build thread and see the issues he has had with his 9", it may save you some head aches down the road.
Fuck 9" axles. Save yourself the money and either replace all the stock crap in the 9" or get a 14b.
Ya, it looks like you like to hammer that thing. I will be starting a buggy build soon for that kind of wheeling. I am going to do chromo axles as soon as I can after seeing your twisted splines, and am installing a billet "daytona" pinion support. Were you using a C7AW-E casting when you broke the caps? I have some experience running the 9" axle, and I am fairly confident that I can get it to hold up to the type of abuse this rig will be seeing. Hell I am wheeling the piss out of my stock D30 cv axles and haven't broke one yet.
My Clayton Offroad WJ axle bracket kits and 4-link truss showed up today. Hopefully find some time to work on this thing soon.
I will be fabricating a bridge over the pumpkin for the upper control arm mount.
Also ordered a big bearing pinion support, ARP studs for everything on the 9", a pinion guard, and a drain plug and fill/inspection plug for the 9".
Last edited by renojeepster; 03-30-2013 at 04:15 AM.
My other new addition. Will be decking this thing out with matching wheels and 315/75 R16's. Going to paint the whole thing to match the WJ, and installing a 12v electrical system w/ solar panel, interior lighting and a shower system.
And another year has gone by. Engineering school and kids have taken most of my time. Rear axle is built and ready to go in, front progress has stalled out untill summer break. Bracketry is allmost done on it and I have a pile of parts ready to go in it. I think I am going to make GSW and tear it down as soon as I get home. I did get some adapters and threw my new wheels and 315/75R16 KM2's on it.
Last edited by renojeepster; 01-23-2015 at 01:42 PM.
Some axle progress. Should be tearing the WJ down to get these under it soon.
Some Wilwood front calipers.
And some action from this summer on the Con, with stock axles and my 35's.
Nice looking WJ
Thanks. It's been a slooow build so far. The next phase is going to have it torn down to nothing. New axles, stretching wheelbase, new coil mounts, shock mounts... I just hope I have time to get it done in a few months and don't miss out on wheeling and camping this year.
I'd like to see what you're up to! I will need a hand dragging axles around the garage soon. I'll be dealing with this ruptured bicep tendon for a few months, so I'm working with only my left hand. I did manage to lay down a few decent beads left handed, lol.
Last edited by renojeepster; 01-17-2015 at 03:27 PM.
Got some Yukon Hardcore hubs. I wish these had been around when I bought my stub axles. I got the chromo 19 splines because I knew they were stronger than my hubs. Now I'm not so sure. I might upgrade to some 30 spline stubs and get a 30 spline gear for these.
Got some IRO 6.5" springs to replace my hammered 4" springs and 2" spacers.
And a Clayton belly pan. Going to fab my own oil pan skid, boats sides, and make everything nice and smooth.
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