Thread: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth)

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  1. #1 To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    This is some what newbtastic so I don't know if it goes here...To install a lunch box locker in a D30, your supposed to pull the carrier out and remove the ring gear to get the pin out. Has any one ground down a tooth or two to get the pin out? Seems like it would be faster than pulling the carrier but does it create a weak spot on the ring gear?
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  2. #2 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
    I have actually heard of someone doing this without incident, but I just cant imagine recomending it. its not that hard to remove the ring gear.

    mark your position of ring gear to the carrier, and reinstall using rubber mallet to set ring gear on the carrier, tighten bolts evenly to torque spec. you should use locktite and newbolts(cause they torque stretch) but I sometimes use the same bolts on my own rockcrawlers.

    some aftermarket crossshafts are machined flat on one side so that with some gear ratios you can remove the shaft and spiders without removing the third, not likely your ratio though.
    My ZJ got mixed up with a CJ,YJ,FSJ, and a F350
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  3. #3 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
    Senior Member LouisianaZJ's Avatar
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    most people grind the gear down a little

    it is a hell of a lot stronger than a shaved down cross shaft
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  4. #4 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    I've seen it done well on an 8.8... I'd be hesitant do do it on a 30 though, consideriong the uber weak ring gear which deflects the pinion to the outside of the gear under load pretty easily.

    So in my opinion is YES it creates a weak spot on an already weak ring gear; just pull the carrier, its' not hard.
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  5. #5 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    Thanks for the replies. I had the front end apart a week or so ago and couldn't get the carrier out. So the next time I open this thing up, I just want to be armed with all the knowledge I can get so I only have to mess with it once more.
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  6. #6 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    We were just going over this in another thread about the 8.8.

    I pretty much agree with everything that was said here. At least with the D30, you have the option of removing the carrier and dismounting the ring gear to get the pin out.

    As a general rule, grinding a little material off a tooth or two isn't that big of a deal. But with a C-clip axle, it's either that, or use the goofy notched cross pin, and the notched pin still doesn't come out without removing the ring gear.

    With no C-clips to worry about, just yank the carrier and dismount the ring gear so you can pull the pin. As someone mentioned, mark the ring gear and carrier so you can bolt it back up in the same spot.
    Fortunately, we're not getting nearly as much government control as we're paying for.
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  7. #7 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    Quote Originally Posted by zjoe
    This is some what newbtastic so I don't know if it goes here...To install a lunch box locker in a D30, your supposed to pull the carrier out and remove the ring gear to get the pin out. Has any one ground down a tooth or two to get the pin out? Seems like it would be faster than pulling the carrier but does it create a weak spot on the ring gear?
    I installed a lockrite in my D30 about a month ago and I was lucky enough to only have to partially ground down 1 tooth since the ring gear just happened to line up that way. I did this because it drastically cut down the install time of the locker (didn't have to pull the carrier out, just punched out the pin holding the pinion shaft, tapped out the pinion shaft, removed the spiders and installed the locker). Plus I figure that if any of the dowel pins (aka sheer pins) break getting them replaced will be MUCH easier, especially on the trail. Hope this helps.

    Fred R.
    97 ZJ, 5" Long Arm Lift, Currie Anti-Rock, Beadlocked 35's, 231/D300 Doubler, Locked Front & Rear (Narrowed HP D44 w/ chromo shafts and Yukon Superjoints & F8.8), ARB Bull Bar & 9K winch, 1-Ton Hydro-assist steering, "Custom" body work and some other goodies...
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  8. #8 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    It does help, thanks. From what I remember, I would have to grind two teeth. So I'm not sure I want to do that. I already ordered ring gear bolts and I'll buy some sanding drums for my dremel so I can do either when the time comes.
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  9. #9 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    What ratios are you guys using? I know for sure the cross pin won't come out with 4.56s.

    As far as the grinding, you'll probably be better off using a stone in your dremel than a sanding drum. That's what I used on the ring gear of my 8.8.
    Fortunately, we're not getting nearly as much government control as we're paying for.
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  10. #10 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
    The "ILF" Hunter Staff Krash80's Avatar
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    I don't get it....if you're installing a lunchbox locker, you've alread got to have the shafts and the spiders out, so you're talking about taking 4 bearing cap bolts off, prying the carrier out, then unbolting the 10 or 12 bolts that hold the ring gear to the carrier and putting it back together...doesn't sound to me like it's a whole lot more work than grinding a tooth on the gear. It's what, maybe an extra half hour total of work to do it the right way?

    Obviously if you're dumping money into a d30 you want the thing to last...how long do you expect it to last after you have the bearings in diff covered in extremely hard ring gear grinding dust (and you know you're not going to get it all out even if you power washed the inside of the housing)?

    I dunno... i guess it's a shortcut, but sound like a pretty ghetto shortcut to avoid doing a very small amount of extra work...definitely not worth it IMO.

    PS- In the time it took you to make this post and then the time you've wasted checking responses to it, you could've had the carrier out and the ring gear off.
    1993 Trashcan, 7/8 Ton, 37's

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  11. #11 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    I think it is about as easy to do it right. For one thing it is going to suck to get all of the grinding dust/debris out of the housing and bearings
    1997 Limited on 35's, 7" long arm and F/R d44's with alloy's, superoints and other stuff.
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  12. #12 Re: To grind, or not to grind. (ring gear teeth) 
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    Quote Originally Posted by redzj
    I think it is about as easy to do it right. For one thing it is going to suck to get all of the grinding dust/debris out of the housing and bearings
    Oh, you'll NEVER get all of that shit out of there.
    Fortunately, we're not getting nearly as much government control as we're paying for.
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