Project "Tortoise" NP435 + 249 + D20

[Skyline]

Awesome job. Can't wait to hear how it all works.

[EMTimZJ]

Dash, I wouldn't say that is "all" you need, I still have to make a crossmember (or two) and a new skid, adjust the lengths of the DS's front and rear. Then there is the *issue of switching to a driver side starter, which is the only choice for this bellhousing. The rear DS is actually just going to be a whole new unit using a 1310 yoke at the D20 output and the toy-joint at the rear axle.

I wish I had the cash to upgrade the rear output to 32 spline and run a flange so I could run toy joints at both ends, they are very strong (right up there with 1410) and can go to 37*.

Jordan, yep I'm keeping the 3.54's (well 3.58 for the toy) in for now. I'm only going to be running 35's with that front D30. 3.54's and 35's may sound like a bad joke, but the NP435 has both a greater gearing span and lower gearing all around.

*issue being that I may have to rework the driver side downpipe.

-Tim

[Kraqa]

that custome shaft looks awfly small for how long it is. i hope you dont' snap it. Great tech tho. looks liek it shoudl be awsome when done. i love the toy axles.

[2jeepsforus]

Pretty Slick Tim..... I'm quite impressed!

Dave

[EMTimZJ]

Kris, yeah it is longer than I wanted, but the way I used the stock intermediate housing from the EB drivetrain, it made for a REALLY simple adapter plate. Also, the minor diameter would still be the same even if it were shorter. The root of the smallest splined section should never enter the working diameter of the shaft. True this shaft will twist more (deg) since it is longer, but comparing this to axle shafts... some break more short shafts and some break more long shafts, it seems to be a toss up. The twisting can be helpful and detrimental.

-Tim

[EMTimZJ]

I finished painting a few items this weekend:

Obnoxious green waggy steering box:



Caliper brackets:



I snagged a picture from somewhere else to show what the stock drain-plug and ring looked like:



Just waiting to get caught on a rock or two!

Axle housing getting paint:



Here is a pic of the welded and ground down drain plug along with the diff armor welded on:



Caliper and bracket bolted on: (from www.sky-manufacturing.com)



Use late 80's front chevy half-ton calipers with early 90's chevy truck rotors, standard cab.



Yes, I'm using a wheel spacer / adapter to address the bolt pattern change (6x5.5 to 5x4.5) and width aspect... I was reluctant to do this, however after talking with the company on the phone and telling them exactly what I was using them for, they insisted that if they were properly torqued, there would be no issues. We'll see how it works!



Wrenching out the bottom studs to be replaced with regular 8mm x 1.25 bolts that will serve as the new "drain plugs" as the OEM was welded and ground:





-Tim

[BlaineWasHere]

I need to find a money tree

Tim needs to find a money tree too... If only has 46RH had not crapped out on him he would still have deep(er) pockets. This Jeep is making him BROKE! But he loves it!


AWESOME write up you are doing Tim!

[BlaineWasHere]

I finished painting a few items this weekend:

Obnoxious green waggy steering box:

I can think of one other ting you have obnoxiously painted!

[spykosshow]

[EMTimZJ]

Yep, that is Blaine with my old 249 front output yoke that he is using for his 247!

[ELLLLLIOTTTTT]

Tim,

we just put that same diff cover on the pathy, it is super stout, and only $25. The progress is looking good. (minus Blaine's gayness .)

[BlaineWasHere]

(minus Blaine's gayness .)

I'm not even going to try and deny it... I look like a duche bag in that pic.

thanks for the yokes Tim!

[EMTimZJ]

Tim,

we just put that same diff cover on the pathy, it is super stout, and only $25. The progress is looking good. (minus Blaine's gayness .)

Thanks Elliot! Yeah, that diff cover is great, it was hard to pass up for the price! (I think mine was $30-$35 though? Oh well! Still a good price)

This weekend I should be finished with the e-locker wiring and be able to complete the axle assembly and have it ready to put in.

-Tim

[Airmanwoody]

You need to get this thing rolling under it's own power. It's sad to see it sitting like it is.

Like the buildup though.

My ZJ goes under the knife around January for the newer lift components, and possibly a STROKER!

[ELLLLLIOTTTTT]

these are good ass diff covers. And I'm a good looking background filler.

[spykosshow]

these are good ass diff covers. And I'm a good looking background filler.

You look like you're struttin your stuff back there!

[EMTimZJ]

these are good ass diff covers. And I'm a good looking background filler.

Are you (or the pathy owner) leaving the bottom drain plug in place?

[EMTimZJ]

DIY coil hose for the diff vent. 1/4" vinyl hose wrapped around a vacuum cleaner extension:



Hot water bath:



Done:



Wired up the locker switch and LED during the UMichigan v. Minn game. Locked Position:



Unlocked Position:

[Cue-Ball]

Looking great so far Tim.

[OverkillZJ]

The colored parts are just great... gave me a good laugh...

[ILikeMud]

Looking good man.

[spykosshow]

Any updates?

[Kraqa]

so much effort into the diff breather when you can get a coilled air lien for $3.00

[EMTimZJ]

so much effort into the diff breather when you can get a coilled air lien for $3.00

Yes you are right. I was going to go the route you did with the D70, with the quick disco coiled air line, however I noticed the housing was already tapped 1/8" NPT so that made it pretty easy with this fitting + the 1/4" hose.



Toy 8 fully dressed waiting to get put in:

[EMTimZJ]

So as I reluctantly expected, there was not enough room for my front driveshaft. 249 reduction box needs to get flipped.

Lined everything up, mid-shaft is centered in the 249 and in the D20 input. marked out where the new holes need to go:



With the proper holes marked, the drilling fun begins:



Drilled and tapped 1/4" NPT for the sight tube:



Somewhere in the middle of tapping my cheap tap handle broke, piece of junk:



Big thanks to Jordan (DJJordache here on MC) for mailing me his old 249 shift fork assembly. Some time during my 249 tear down I lost the sector switch roll pin. Jordan was going to just send me that and then he found that his was welded in! Mine looked to be welded in at some point, so I have no clue how I lost it or where it went. The fork removes from the rod by pulling the small retaining cross pin. My original rod was already cut to proper length so I just swapped them over. Thanks Jordan



Instead of welding up the old holes, grinding them flat, repainting, I just plugged them with 3/8" long set screws. Also a look at the sight tube for an easy check on fluid level.