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07-11-2006, 11:06 PM
i have no idea if thats good or bad in terms of cage design but as an artist thats some screwed up perspective. lol. good luck i'm sure someone else here will have something important to say
07-11-2006, 11:17 PM
dude use like 1/2 that amount and go from there. Think bigger picture for triangulation and nodes and stuff, not JUST sections. I'll see if I can sketch one up to show you what I mean.
Unless you want a chadjans 75 point nascar cage.
07-11-2006, 11:29 PM
^if you got a cage like that you'd also limit yourself to only turning left, which would really limit your ability on the trails.
07-11-2006, 11:31 PM
Originally Posted by NAFTEL
Twice every year you could go right too though...
07-11-2006, 11:41 PM
^better hope those dates coincide with grand slam west or east!
07-12-2006, 12:09 AM
Naf, my paint skills are the suck. I'm gonna try and do something in cad or something later.
Also I'm not seeing what your saying about only turning left.
Puma, thanks man.
You guys are giving me lots of help, though I'm new to cage building and design it's something I want to learn.
Last edited by ILikeMud; 07-12-2006 at 12:14 AM.
07-12-2006, 01:56 AM
For what its worth I would not put in a vertical windshield V. Gussets along the corners of that section should be sufficient. Also the tube above the passengars in your pic going laterally will really do nothing during a rollover. The side profile in this next pic is very basic but I believe would hold up. I think it would be sweet to have some door bars but it would be a pain trying to jump in and out if you also had an actual door to contend with. Either way the bottom part of the pillars should be tied in together to stiffen things up. I didn't draw a 3D view but the only thing you can't see through these pics is the x-brace integrated into the b-pillar. Use your imagination.Let me know what you think.
07-12-2006, 10:48 AM
Check out this webshots page. I think this is the ultimate cage design and has actually been certified by NHRA.
http://community.webshots.com/user/jpmtx/2
True it is a WJ, but still pretty awesome. I really love the way he had it tied into the unibody.
07-12-2006, 12:57 PM
He tied it in the same way that Chad did with his. I was going to use the same method.
Are door bars really needed? Personally I see it as a pain if your driving the thing on the street cause you need to climb over it all the time.
I was working on a much more simple design last night that I'll have to put up here once I get home.
07-12-2006, 01:00 PM
door bars are just a cool accessory, structurally speaking you'd be fine without them.
07-12-2006, 01:52 PM
I thought so, I personally think that having them swing out takes away some of the strenght of them.
Thanks for the drawing btw.
07-12-2006, 05:38 PM
Took Puma's design and just changed it a lil.
Tell me what you all think.
07-12-2006, 05:42 PM
I am sure the swing out does reduce some strength, but if the NHRA certified them then they can't be all that weak.
When I build a cage I would love to tie it in the way those guys did to the unibody, I think that is a really clean way to do it and it let's you drop the cage down through the floor to allow complete welding and painting of the top side.
07-12-2006, 06:22 PM
yeah, Jim was involved in a nasty roll, so the cage was a serious priority for him. I really like the design of his cage, simple and strong.
07-12-2006, 06:27 PM
Yea looking at the pix of the roll it was pretty NASTY.
07-12-2006, 11:40 PM
It is about 12 points so suck it.
Quit trying to support unsupported spans. Bring your nodes TO GET HER and simplify.
You may find this album of use: http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=4287199799
Chad
07-13-2006, 12:03 AM
Thanks Chad. I've looked at your albums for the 'frame' tie ins actually.
I forgot to add the pic last time...dur...
07-13-2006, 12:17 AM
You could eliminate some of that redundant tube. You are looking at having a lot of weight up high, but that's hard to avoid.
07-13-2006, 12:32 AM
My frame tie ins are here: http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=4286931395
Loose that circle crap in the back. You don't have a bender capable of it. Just make a v spreader and support the middle of the c hoop and go to the d's.
I would also loose the 90* kicker that goes from the a spreader to your b spreader above your occupants.
I would also loose the v brace that goes from your b to c spreaders unless you do not want rear passengers to have their heads.
Do yourself a favor and give yourself some more rear cargo space and lengthen the vertical portion of the d kickers.
Take your headliner out and give yourself as much space as you can. So you can hold all your tube tight to the existing roof. Unless you are cutting the roof off.
Building cages are a lot of work. My friend and I had at least a 120 hours each in my original version. If you do them right they stiffen the unibody considerably. You will notice a difference.
You may want to consider sleaving the frame rails if you EVER think you are going to do long arms. And then you will be stuck making your own. This is a project not for the faint of heart. And if you do it right with good unibody tie ins you will be a lot better off than that EOR cage that just bolts to the floor boards, flops around and gives you something to rattle your head on.
START BENDING TUBE WITH YOUR B HOOP. NONE OF YOUR DRAWINGS AND PREPLANNING MEASUREMENTS WILL HOLD TRUE. JUST GET YOUR CONCEPT DOWN AND GO FROM THERE.
Chad
Last edited by chadjans; 07-13-2006 at 10:45 AM.
07-13-2006, 10:57 AM
the turning left thing was in response to someone else calling your cage nascar- cause those cars go left only except for twice a year.(around and around the track)
07-13-2006, 07:42 PM
Chad could not have said it better. Consider seriously every recommendation he made. And I would also suggest that you listen to the guys that have actually done this before instead of those just speculating...
07-13-2006, 11:27 PM
werd.
I think my end up leaving this to a pro.
Also, since chad brought it up. If I slevee my 'frame' rails with 3/16 c-channel, I won't be able to run one of the long arm kits sold on the market?
07-13-2006, 11:34 PM
Sleave with 1/4 wall and more than likely you will loose the capablity of running a long arm system other than one of your own design.
Chad
07-19-2006, 03:04 PM
Bending tube yet?
07-19-2006, 04:29 PM
Not yet. Right now I'm sick and my buddy's tube bender hasn't arrived from the States yet.
Also I can slevee the full frame rail with 3/16" still with short arms still correct? Or would I have to add some material where the stock arms use to be once I do long arms.
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