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Thanks!
Tyler said it was a bitch to weld, laying on top of the roof.
I modeled it up in CAD so we knew the angles, that helped a lot and having a template for the spider butt.
I like that it's simple and unique at the same time.
Last edited by JohnBoulderCO; 01-25-2016 at 11:12 AM.
what was the though behind so many internal vertical supports? not the typical a, b, c, d pillar's.
The goal was to save the unibody. My B and C are cracked, bent and falling apart. My doors don't close well. I wanted tube as close as I could to re-enforce the pillars with lots of bracing. You can't run tube straight across between the pillars because of the front seats and rear seats so secondary B pillars and C pillars were put in. I got the idea from Agitated Pancake.
That cage is coming out great! I really need to get started on mine.i like how you tied into the pillars, i know the unibody isnt much but it makes sense to me to add to it with a cage.
it looks real good. its definitely going to help with the twisting and flex of the unibody. its just cool to see the different approaches. I am mapping out my cage and i have a totally different plan.......its cool to see how we can both come to very different conclusions is all.
Yep, I think each person's cage is addressing their particular need, which leads to the various designs. Each one is unique and cool !
Gave my spider a second coat of black paint tonight
Yes, moved the carpet out of the way, will use a welding blanket to protect the headliner. Will add D-Pillar braces for added rigidity. No plan for A-Pillars at this time.
Got the roof painted and sealed up.
Nice!
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Painted the inside. Then installed the seats, plastic trim and carpet.
Looks awesome! Nicely done!
Thanks!
Nice job! Turned out great
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How much room is there left on the back seat? WJ aren't known foe the rear leg room and putting a cage in would decrease it even more it seems. Is this your DD?
Tried 37's once again at GSW 2017. Broke a stub shaft and 2 hubs. I'm convinced that 37's are the Devil's bastard tire. Too big for 1/2 tons too small for 1 tons. I'm back on 35's and I promise to be happy until i decide (if ever) to go 1 tons.
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i ran 37's with d60's no problem with ground clearance.
Would you say anybody wheeling a WJ on 35"s is going to end up with major unibody problems? I imagine more "mild" solutions like the unibody stiffeners, well tied-in sliders etc. just aren't going to be enough? I'm looking to do a much more "expedition" type build, but it will get flexed out when needed.
Thanks,
TJ
Depends on how hard and long you wheel it. John's been wheeling his dub for close to 20 years. I think the key is to get all of the reinforcements in place BEFORE you start beating on it. My ZJ's unibody is in similar conditions to John's, but I have a cherry 5.9 that I will be moving everything over to, AFTER I spend a lot of time with a welder and some steel reinforcing the crap out of it. Trying to reinforce everything once it's already tweaked doesn't fix anything, it just prevents it from getting worse.
With a good long arm set up like Clatyon's, suspension flex won't lead to too much damage. Dropping the entire vehicle onto a rock will. Even with sliders. On the 5.9 I'm going to build, my plan is unibody reinforcement the entire length of the vehicle with cut out rockers tied in to the unibody reinforcement as well as the Clayton "subframe." I have not yet decided if I will build a cage off of all of that or not, but the best time do it is BEFORE things get tweaked.
Makes sense. I have a very clean/nice WJ that I'm going to build up a bit more than the current setup (stock D30/44A with VariLoks, stock 247 QuadraDrive, IRO 4" Rock-Link front long-arm but stock rear arms w/ spacer, sliders, etc.). The plan is D44s front and back (ECGS front, haven't decided on just building the stock rear vs. ECGS) with ARBs, convert rear to long-arm (was just going to use IRO's stuff since that's what I have so far), Notch Customs WMax flares and hope I can clear a 35" at or near the current lift (I don't want to go crazy tall). It'll mostly be used as an expedition rig, not a "hardcore" wheeler, but the Rubicon trail is on the list. I know stock JLs are running the Rubi on 32-33"s and it's been "dumbed down" and I'm not above taking the easy lines and bypasses.
Like you said, I want to address things BEFORE they get bad. There's not a ton out there for WJ frame stiffeners for the WJ:
- IRO has this "center" section: https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...r-section.html
- Trail Forged has Front, Rear and Rear Long Kits: https://trailforged.com/product/wj-frame-stiffeners
It would seem the combo of TF's front and rear (long or short depending on bumper and upper rear shock mount choices) with IRO's center section and the Kevin's sliders I already have would help a ton. But is it enough to run something like a 315/75-16 (roughly 34.6x12.4") over the long-term on an "expedition" build that will be a bit on the heavy side (roof rack, rooftop tent - yes, I'm going to be one of "those guys") etc?
-TJ
Last edited by tjZ06; 09-09-2019 at 07:35 PM.
Sounds like you're on the right track. IRO makes some good stuff. I was at their shop talking to Darrick earlier this year and he said they're working on full length stiffeners, so keep an eye out for those. I'm waiting for him to finish up the ZJ ones. Darrick has put a lot into the equipment in his shop too to help with that stuff. They can load up 2 sheets of steel when they leave for the day and come back the next morning to a bunch of sweet parts all laser cut. The ones I bought (not IRO) for the rear of my current ZJ were done by hand with a plasma and the fit was garbage. Looking forward to see what Darrick and his guys come up with.
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