|
can you fit the rear truss on with the upper control arm brackets?
thanks guys. You rock!
i didn't think so, but i couldn't remember
Ive got the same kit and love it!
Hey guys what can be done to prevent or install the kit so it doesnt mangle your floor pan?
Bumpstops.
Cut out the part of the floor pan that gets hit...
It only mangles them once.
But seriously, I dropped my bumpstops 3" (more like 2 3/4") and at full compression the upper arms are not quite touching the floor pan. I suppose actual results also depend on your rear axle. For example, with a 14 bolt . . .
okay cool ill just have to get my bumpstops the correct length then!
It's in need of new bushings in a couple spots, but other than that the kit has been awesome.
I think I have yet to hear someone unhappy with claytons
The Clayton kit in our ZJ rides and works so well that next winter when we come back down to AZ, we're leaving our well built JKU Rubicon in the garage and bringing the ZJ. People can't believe what it can do. The ride and comfort are also better.
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I figured it'd be better than making a new one.
I've searched around and couldn't find anything.
Does anyone know what angle the upper arms in the claytons rear come off of the frame brackets?
I'm copying this kit, and have the axle all about done minus the upper link mounts needing welded on the truss and frame brackets. I mocked it up, and found they're right around 22.5*, which is about half of what I need according to what I read. I know the claytons kit doesn't fall under the 'perfect' conditions as far as link geometry, but that it does work well. So I was wondering if I was in an accecptable range or if I needed to push the frame mount for them towards the axle some.
My lowers will be 38-40"ish, depending on where the axle ends up in the wheel well, and the uppers I'm currently figuring out.
Thanks in advance for any help.
And a BIG THANKS for the writeup, as I used A TON of it for fabbing up what I have.
Good luck getting exact info like that to blatantly copy a kit.
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk
Guess I better just quit while I'm ahead and sell the jeep then seeing as I'm copying everyone else lifting it and throwing bigger tires under it
I'm just asking for a few specs man, chill out. It's not like I'm doing this to sell kits. If I had the cash I would buy it, but I don't, so I do the next best thing.
Then do the next best thing and search out a link calculator and figure it out.
Thats what I'm working on, like I said everyone's saying to aim for 40*ish but I don't see how the hell thats possible with the uppers mounted right above the lowers (frameside)
This really isn't that difficult if you are competent enough to be designing and building your vehicle's suspension. It's not going to happen with single-triangulated long arms on a ZJ. That means significantly higher loads on the joints/ mounts, but it apparently works well enough for the kit. You'll have much better results overall with a double triangulated setup like your future sig suggests you intended to do anyway. Search for more info rather than cluttering up a thread.
Quick question im in the middle of installing the shock conversion now how much weld is run around it?
we decided to weld it in the corners and one along the center
Geez whats up with all these hackers!
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Thread Information |
Users Browsing this ThreadThere are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests) |