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Well, looking for a new rear axle to start building. I have seen that a few WJ owners have an 8.8, and recomend them. But doesn't the WJ have a 63.5 WMS? ,And the Ford 8.8 have a 59.5 WMS. What do you do about that 4 inches?
If I decide to go with another axle. How do you trim down the width of it? Seperate axle tubes from pumpkin? Drill out the welds?, and cut the axle tubes down? (Maybe a sawzall?) Then weld them back in?
Then have custom axles made?
Ive been looking around the 8.8's, but saw a few places saying the W"J has 63.5" WMS, ZJ has like 60.5", and the 8.8 is 59.5"
Thanks
back before I got set on using the 8.8 in my ZJ whenever I got some money and a few more mods down the road, but I was thinkin about using the 9 1/4" rear end out of a first body style Durango which is 63" wmswms and larger than the 8.8 BUT I don't think there is as much aftermarket support for these axles.....
What's the WMS measurement on the F-150 8.8?
Doesn't it have the same 5x5.5 pattern?
Oh crap, I thought F-150's came with 9 inch rears?
Those for sure are 5x5.5.
Use 2" wheel spacers to get the correct width and change the bolt pattern from 5x4.5 to 5x5.
I checked into 8.8's and 9's out of F150's. Drums, 5x5.5 and 65" wide. Unless you do a front axle swap at the same time, it's more cost and work.
Best option is to swap both axles at the same time, same width, same bolt patterns. HP44 and 9" would be a good combo. Next time it's HP60 and 14bolt for me.
I dont have any welding equipment, or much know how...
But If i Could find a axle to start, and cut it down and then find axles for it . That would be a start.. I have a great mechanic who would do any welding and gear installs for me.. I just need to get all the right supplies/parts.
To cut one down to size, is all i need to do is brake the welds that hold the axle tubes to the pumpkin, and then trim them down equally to the size I'd need? And then just order custom axles?
Ive called around to just have an axle cutom built... Ive been seeing from 3k to 4.5k. All depends what Id be looking for.. I agree with the D60 HP, and the 14 bolt!! , Either that or a 10 bolt in front and 14 bolt in back. Seems the Ford 9's are a pretty pricey way to go...
Jeff
What about transfer case to driveshaft angles...does the pumpkin on a D44 line up the same as the pumpkin on a D30 if you were to swap it out? Same for the 9"? I plan on putting a 9" with a hi center-section sometime in the near future, so i'll be looking out for any info to help me out. Thanks.
Here is the cheapest way to use an 8.8 and have the width and bolt pattern you need..
http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Adapter_5_Lug_4_5_To_5_Lug_5_5_p/5450-5550.htm
Nope. You need to go from 5x4.5 to 5x5 and they need to be 2" thick.Originally Posted by Swamp boy
http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Ada.../5450-5500.htm
Oops.. I thought it was 5.5... Still not 2" but maybe if you contacted them they could make them 2 instead of 1.25
This guy made mine. He will make what ever you want, some places won't. http://www.wheeladapter.com/home.asp
Why would it be more cost and work to run a f150 8.8 with out doing the front also I'm asking because I am about to do this exact swap I have the axle just sitting it is that or a sterling 10.25 which is way to big for a overland rig I want full width and strength and ground clearance on a 33 or 35
The axles will have two different bolt patterns, so you will need spacers to convert the front axle or re-drill it to match the rear. Plus the truck 8.8 will need to be converted to disks. That's the extra expense.
If you know for sure you won't go larger than 35's, then a full width 8.8 will be better than an Explorer 8.8 with spacers. Semi-float axles tend to bend and adding spacers adds stress. I have bent several Yukon 8.8 shafts. FYI, my Dutchman 8.8 shafts are still straight.
If you think you might go to 37's then a full float rear axle will be a better choice. Hence my last sentence in my 10 year old post is still relevant.
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