Thread: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link

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  1. #26 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    I am not really concearned about the WJ ends, I got the moog stuff and a friend is gonna put a few braces on them, especially at the Pitman Arm one, plenty of space there to weld on a nice piece 1/4" in the bend up, as far as Kevins rods go, they are only maybe an 1/8" larger dia. but they are notably thicker, still an upgrade. I am only really worried about the angles, I will wait till I get them then drive over to the loading ramps and snap a pic..Now I need to figure out a stabilizer mount. I like that I will now have jamb nuts and thicker tubing. Thanks again
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  2. #27 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Update:

    I picked up a Right Hand Thread -- Right Hand Drive -- TRE for the Knuckle Side of the Drag Link from the Jeep Dealer today. Jeep P/N is 52088512

    It has the same exact bend that our Drag Link TRE has, just the opposite direction. So, you can use this TRE on top of your knuckle, to clear your spring.

    You can use WJ OEM TRE’s and flip your Tie Rod.

    It was a special order and took two days to get from Detroit, but with all the WJ's sold in England, Japan and Australia, I don't think there is any worry about it being discontinued.

    I will post a pic or two later this week when I get it installed.
    Last edited by JohnBoulderCO; 05-14-2007 at 10:47 PM.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
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  3. #28 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    John

    This is pretty cool. After I decide how I want to address my track bar up front I may do the flip. I will order the RH drive TRE and keep the one I had made as a spare.
    Ask not what your country can do for you; but what can you do for your country. JFK Jan 20th, 1961

    TnT Customs Long Arms, 33" BFG KM2s, Magnum 9k winch, Ready Welder, Custom HP 30/30 front with ARB, Currie HP 9 rear with Detroit
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  4. #29 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnBoulderCO View Post
    Update:

    I picked up a Right Hand Thread -- Right Hand Drive -- TRE for the Knuckle Side of the Drag Link from the Jeep Dealer today. Jeep P/N is 52088512

    It has the same exact bend that our Drag Link TRE has, just the opposite direction. So, you can use this TRE on top of your knuckle, to clear your spring.

    You can use WJ OEM TRE’s and flip your Tie Rod.

    It was a special order and took two days to get from Detroit, but with all the WJ's sold in England, Japan and Australia, I don't think there is any worry about it being discontinued.

    I will post a pic or two later this week when I get it installed.
    If you keep the stock TRE at the pitman arm, will the right hand drive TRE provide enough clearance? I tried using a regular driver side TRE, but the bend was not enough aside from not being able to thread it into the draglink properly....even if I was able to thread it, I would hit into the sway bar mount at about 3/5th turn...

    Another thing I ran into is, I found that I need to get a insert for the draglink at the knuckle side as well..


    Also is there any reason why you didn't order the part from jeep4x4 center ?
    Last edited by nierace; 05-28-2007 at 09:56 PM.
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  5. #30 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Yes the RHD TRE will clear, if you move your sway bar link to the other side of it's mount. You can see that in the pics.

    Yes, you need three inserts.

    I didn't get it from jeep4x4 center because it was only $7 more from the dealer and I wanted to confirm with them that it was correct. Now that I know it is correct, I could buy it from jeep4x4 center, depending on their shipping costs.

    Here it is, installed. Note, all WJ TRE's are made in Canada, hence the leaf on the sticker.
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  6. #31 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Unfortunately I didn't find this out till everything was said and done, and before I told Arlo to order the inserts from goferitoffroad

    *******But IRO sells the inserts for 4.99 ******* WONT WORK!!!

    http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-S_STS

    ******* THESE SLEEZVES FROM IRO WILL NOT WORK IN THE KNUCKLE!!!!!!!*****

    Sorry for the confusion...
    Last edited by nierace; 06-07-2007 at 10:50 AM.
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  7. #32 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Make sure you drill the holes straight. Best bet is to take the knuckles off and take them to a machine shop. Make sure your welds are good. TIG would be best in this application.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
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  8. #33 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Word I just drilled mine in place like a hill billy, looked straight to me...
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  9. #34 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
    Senor Member Lifetime Supporter ArloGuthroJeep's Avatar
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    Damn John, taking my knuckles off and to a machine shop - that sounds like A LOT of work...I think it would just be easier for me to wait for you to build a new axle and I'll take your old one
    -Ryan
    '04 WJ w/6" on Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 4.56 (locked 44a), 35" BFG MT KM2's
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  10. #35 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    It's not that hard, really. You can take the shafts out with the hubs, just 3 13mm bolts. Hardest part is getting the knuckles off.

    I'm just saying what the "best" way is to do this. Kinda like welding your LA's on your WJ vs. bolting them on.

    Ryan that would be the easiest. The tone rings are on the shafts if you want to keep your ABS, you get the Stillen brakes, updated calipers, axle truss, 4.56 gears, ARB.....and the flipped steering....just bolt it in. No shipping either, local. Easy.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
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  11. #36 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    You can't retain ABS because the ZJ sensors don't fit into the holes. It's possible to make them work if you drilled out the knuckle maybe..
    Quote Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
    it's a hobby that rarely makes good financial sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
    I can proudly say that I am one of the "OG's" of mutilating a perfectly good luxury SUV.
    1996 V8, Claytons, HP30/D44a locked, ARB, winch, WJ brakes and high steer, 33s, some body damage.
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  12. #37 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim311 View Post
    You can't retain ABS because the ZJ sensors don't fit into the holes. It's possible to make them work if you drilled out the knuckle maybe..
    This is a WJ axle, not a ZJ axle. You can retain ABS, I was running it before I did my rear axle swap.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
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  13. #38 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Ah. Well.. if you have a ZJ and you're doing the WJ knuckle swap the ABS won't work unless you fab something
    Quote Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
    it's a hobby that rarely makes good financial sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
    I can proudly say that I am one of the "OG's" of mutilating a perfectly good luxury SUV.
    1996 V8, Claytons, HP30/D44a locked, ARB, winch, WJ brakes and high steer, 33s, some body damage.
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  14. #39 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
    Senor Member Lifetime Supporter ArloGuthroJeep's Avatar
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    Why not? ABS sensors are the same aren't they? # of teeth on the tone rings are also the same I thought?
    -Ryan
    '04 WJ w/6" on Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 4.56 (locked 44a), 35" BFG MT KM2's
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  15. #40 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnBoulderCO View Post
    Update:

    I picked up a Right Hand Thread -- Right Hand Drive -- TRE for the Knuckle Side of the Drag Link from the Jeep Dealer today. Jeep P/N is 52088512

    It has the same exact bend that our Drag Link TRE has, just the opposite direction. So, you can use this TRE on top of your knuckle, to clear your spring.

    You can use WJ OEM TRE’s and flip your Tie Rod.

    It was a special order and took two days to get from Detroit, but with all the WJ's sold in England, Japan and Australia, I don't think there is any worry about it being discontinued.

    I will post a pic or two later this week when I get it installed.

    That is an awsome find man. I'm going to order it today. Do you need 3 sleeves to do this? I guess I'll use a longer bolt to space the sway bar link out.
    Balltastic.
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  16. #41 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Quote Originally Posted by nierace View Post
    Unfortunately I didn't find this out till everything was said and done, and before I told Arlo to order the inserts from goferitoffroad

    *******But IRO sells the inserts for 4.99 ******* WONT WORK!!!

    http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-S_STS

    ******* THESE SLEEZVES FROM IRO WILL NOT WORK IN THE KNUCKLE!!!!!!!*****

    Sorry for the confusion...

    Yea, I was the test dummy for this one. I ordered three and they won't do SHIT for me. I told them taper adapter, but I recieved these instead. Oh well, miscommunication, the guys at IRO as still cool as hell.
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  17. #42 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim311 View Post
    Ah. Well.. if you have a ZJ and you're doing the WJ knuckle swap the ABS won't work unless you fab something
    You did the WJ swap on yours I'm assuming?

    I was trying to see in the pic, but I couldn't tell if that was the WJ knuckle or the Tereflex one
    Quote Originally Posted by OverkillZJ View Post
    Knit up a yj beast
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  18. #43 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Nothing like digging up the old threads...

    John,

    How's your set-up work for DD? Did your flip add or reduce bump-steer? My steering has gotten prety sloppy and it's mostly due to the TRA at the pitman, I think. I've also gone through like 4 SS and 1 tie-rod, so this would solve both problems nicely, assuming it is tight enough to allow me to make an hour long commute twice a day...
    99 GC, 4.7, 6" Clayton's LA, 315/75/R16's, FIPK, 3 inch Kolak exhaust, VIAIR 450 OBA, front ARB with Warn HS9500, Kevin's Sliderz, full skids, SURCO, Hi-Lift, Xenon's with Kolak harness, more to follow.
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  19. #44 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    It's going to increase your bump steer. I do drive around town from time to time, drive it to the trails in CO and to Moab several times a year. It's not as crisp as my new DD, but since you are already at 6" your Jeep isn't that crisp anymore either. I haven't hit my SS since raising it up that high or broken a tie rod (I still hit it, just not as much and the JKS one is much stronger then stock). If you are bending drag links, at least convert to a big chevy TRE on your pitman arm, that is binding and acting like a limiting strap.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
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  20. #45 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Well, unfortunately for me, this is my DD and I have to be able to survive in DC traffic with it an hour each way. I guess I'll start trying to figure out how to tighten it up and work the bump steer out of it. 295 around the Navy Yard is really bad with the BS I've got. Adding BS is going to make it impossible to handle.

    Wonder what your setup would do with a TB Drop bracket added while leaving the stock pitman. If memory serves, I tried that and it was awful...
    99 GC, 4.7, 6" Clayton's LA, 315/75/R16's, FIPK, 3 inch Kolak exhaust, VIAIR 450 OBA, front ARB with Warn HS9500, Kevin's Sliderz, full skids, SURCO, Hi-Lift, Xenon's with Kolak harness, more to follow.
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  21. #46 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lbrty9 View Post
    Well, unfortunately for me, this is my DD and I have to be able to survive in DC traffic with it an hour each way. I guess I'll start trying to figure out how to tighten it up and work the bump steer out of it. 295 around the Navy Yard is really bad with the BS I've got. Adding BS is going to make it impossible to handle.

    Wonder what your setup would do with a TB Drop bracket added while leaving the stock pitman. If memory serves, I tried that and it was awful...
    If you do the flip and raise the axle end of the drag link, and also do a trackbar drop bracket, your links should be back to parallel, eliminating the extra bump steer, yes or no?
    2000 WJ - Stroked, Locked & Long Armed
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  22. #47 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Yes, if you want to eliminate the bump steer. I don't care about the little extra bump steer and didn't want to mess with a Track Bar Drop bracket (bad idea) or a new Track bar mount on the axle. If one was making a new track bar from scratch, they could find a new location for the mount on the axle side, to reduce/eliminate the bump steer.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
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  23. #48 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    I wanna make sure I'm doing the right thing with this steering setup...
    I am putting a 4.5" lift on a daily driver WJ, and I want to accomplish the following in regards to steering:

    1) Beef up the steering components and replace worn components.
    2) Remove anything that is limiting flex.
    3) Get the geometry correct to reduce potential for bump-steer and/or death wobble.

    So if I read all the posts right, then the following should work well without any other changes (no chevy tre, no bracket changes)...

    A JKS Adjustable track bar #OGS127.

    Kevin's draglink with factory replacement TRE on pitman end, and factory part #52088512 TRE (from a RHD) on the knuckle end, flipped to top of knuckle using 1 "tie rod flip insert" from goferitoffroad.

    JKS WJ Tie-Rod #TR300 and 2 new factory replacement TRE's. Flip to top of knuckle by using 2 "tie rod flip inserts" from goferitoffroad. Also requires swapping the lower sway bar link mount to inside on passenger side.

    Anything I missed, or better components available other than JKS/Kevinz? Thanks!
    Last edited by theksmith; 02-29-2008 at 07:23 PM.
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  24. #49 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
    Senor Member Lifetime Supporter ArloGuthroJeep's Avatar
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    This'll make bump steer worse since you have now taken the trackbar and drag link out of parallel. The JKS/Kevin tierod is very beefy, I have beaten the crap out of mine and had held up great
    -Ryan
    '04 WJ w/6" on Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 4.56 (locked 44a), 35" BFG MT KM2's
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  25. #50 Re: WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link 
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep View Post
    This'll make bump steer worse since you have now taken the trackbar and drag link out of parallel. The JKS/Kevin tierod is very beefy, I have beaten the crap out of mine and had held up great
    i thought the lift would bring them out of parallel and this would help put them back? are you saying i would be better off not doing anything to the steering then after a 4.5" lift (driveability wise, not clearance wise obviously)??
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