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What'd you do for the draglink ? Is it just far from paralell with the trackbar now ?
the drag link and track bar are perfect, but for some reason I'm still getting some wierd bump steer symptoms but NO DW symptoms at all.
Post #20 is my drag link. That was to lengthen it and to make it use the correct TRE.
boom
Ok now heres something that has me stumped. I have bump steer with the new axle. When i hit potholes with one side or the other I dont notice it much, but when both sides cycle in unison I get it. The kicker? Track bar and drag link are angled basically perfectly and are basically the same length...
Then heres the brake line. Let me tell you, its goddamn interesting only driving home with 1 front brake. The way I got it home (and have had to on one other occasion, years ago) was put long coarse screw into the brake line, and hose clamp it a couple of times. I took back streets home, but it honestly does a good job at stopping the fluid.
And here is the spring and perch as requested. The spring perches are actually lined up pretty well, but the spring has a slight bow because of how its clamped to the lower perch.
first time flexin 'er out, like how it went.
Spring retainers, yay. Now to add a post to the top mount.
Still need to trim the rear...
Rear shocks to be inboarded/triangulated soon, WAY limiting flex. The rear was touching, but I could actually lift if off the ground (anyone remember the hummer vid? haha)
Droopage
Just took this to give myself an idea on how to truss the rear and make a skid for it, truss is looking pretty easy with clayton's bracket already in place.
Last edited by AgitatedPancake; 07-09-2007 at 10:19 PM.
so I have one little problem right now. I'm going to be inboarding/triangulating the rear shocks, but as of right now my ebrake cables are JUST starting to get a little tight for my liking (as you can see in the last pic, but there isnt much pressure on them there). Where can I get longer cables, or what can I do about it?
did you get the bumpsteer figured out?
on my waggy 44 my pinion angle is awful in order to get my castor in check, which took a lot of my on road shakes away... is yours similar?
hmm it's been a while since ive touched this thread. Short recap:
Old engine comes out:
New engine goes in:
Then the new engine had to come BACK out because the guys who built it didnt tighten down the cam gear bolts so one of them spun. No internal damage. Got it fixed and back together, have over 2k miles on it now, the swap was completed about 2.5 weeks ago I'd guess?
Other then that? I made some upper coil retainers today, the d44 was dropping the front coils every time i flexed out =P
here they are at work:
2000 miles in 2.5 weeks?
Wow, you do a lot of driving.
Holy damn! I almost forgot the awesomeness! It kinda spurred the engine swap, but I did NOT hydrolock.
Ahhh. Good times lol.
(I will get the picture links fixed ASAP, my host f*cked up my acct a while ago and lost all that I had online...but I think I have a backup somewhere)
Damn, tried to cross a lake?
Lol no I was just fuckin around in one. You can tell where I'm standing it is like a foot and a half deep, it was like that everywhere around me. I stopped for a sec, then tried to go and the jeep just sank. I completely submerged my 33"s in foot and a half water =P Damn silt. Got inside, blew one of my amps. Good times.
all the way up to post 29 is the sexiest assortment of red x's I have seen in a while
Last edited by naturalbornmudder; 05-18-2008 at 01:01 AM.
Dude I wish I had known. We were up at Sand Mt. the past two weekends, We could have gotten together for a beer.
My wife wanted to go for Mothers Day.
I do have to ask what way you went? Because from Roseville its a only 420 miles round trip.
Any way sorry we missed ya. Just be glad your not there this weekend- A little fricken HOT!
A friend with 6 quads and a 550hp LS1 rear engine sand rail invited me. 'nuff said LOL. My first time really riding in sand so it was quite the experience, playing hardcore follow the leader with 8 quads (2 camps, we all knew each other) was the most intense riding i've EVER done.
Tore the sh*t out of the WJ on my last rubicon run. Bent the piss out of my tie rod, broke my drag link, blew a brake line and smashed a rear axleside LCA mount. Because I destroyed my steering so bad, I decided it was upgrade time. 1 ton crossover high steer time!
Christmas came early today =D
I have my knuckles and arms sitting in the garage right now waiting for the new balljoints, so its go time!
well I got the steering all welded up and finished,
The way the JKS track bar bends towards the front of the truck makes it and the tierod hit hard when flexing, so to make it alrightish i dropped my rock krawler track bar back in as it bends are only on the vertical plane. It's about 2" too short but flex's nice now. The RK bar and JKS bar are same OD, I want to see if i can get the RK bar tapped to receive the JKS bushing end as its longer.
Did a rubicon run this weekend with a little damage, only thing that happened was i slipped a bead and bent a wheel (and of course the body damage =P).
Last edited by AgitatedPancake; 09-03-2008 at 12:54 PM.
1.5" .250 wall BEEF =D. So far its all holdin up well, slightly interesting drive with the trackbar to draglink angle but tracks straight as hell.
*EDIT* Also forgot to mention, the guy who sold me the knuckles said they were the chevy 1 ton blah blah. Well the smaller 3 ends from the pic above (2 ES2234R's and 1 ES2010L) were too small for the knuckles, but the top one (ES2027L) had the right diameter in the taper, so I ended up returning the ES2234R's, and the ES2010L for 1 more ES2027L and 2 ES2026R's as they are the larger diameter higher angle ends that fit my knuckles. I found it quite odd, the 2026 and 2027 were some of the cheapest of the group, yet they are stronger (the stud doesnt pinch where it hits the main body), and they are higher angle. Anyways i'm not complaining, now my tie rod and drag link use identical TRE's so thats a bonus.
Last edited by AgitatedPancake; 09-04-2008 at 06:09 PM.
Got rid of those MTR's, Grabbed some SSR's for a steal =D. Needs a little adjusting to make them fit well, but she's been gettin the lovin lately =D
Front needs to go forward an inch or two...
Nice license plate carnage! It gets progressively more damaged with every update
Last edited by dp96zj; 11-23-2008 at 03:08 PM.
yeah, on the rubicon a couple of my buddies were fuckin around and one of them snapped the ears of a yoke on his rear DS, and because I was behind him, when he got stuck I was the one who got to molest his truck off the trail =P
well I've been putting a crapton of work into the jeep lately, new bushings in all the claytons lowers (holy hell what a goddamn PITA), new wheel bearings on both sides in rear, pulled tranny pan to fix leak, installed a drain plug and temp sensor (Avg seems 180, highest ive seen is 190...sound normal for a pan reading? seems cool) replaced the waterpump.
Still on my list of things to do:
-Push the front axle forward 1-2" so the SSR's clear the wheel wells while flexed and turning,
-242HD tcase. It will be gettin rid of my front DS vibes so I can keep my caster in check, and the case itself is supposudly longer than the 247 so I want to see if I can get the slip yoke from a 242 case and replace the slip yoke on the 247 driveshaft (different spline counts). If the u-joints are the same size, it should let me push the rear axle back a bit.
-Truss + skid rear axle
-cut out tire well and raise tank
-inboard rear shocks (but keep them near vertical)
-rebuild slider mounts
-add support to outer parts of front bumper
-build rear bumper
Yeah...should keep me busy for a while.
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