4.6L Stroker write-up

[dirty]

Payclose attention to setting the timing. I used a crower cam, and didn't have to grind off the ears of my dist. If it is installed 180* out, you can swap plug wires around, and it'll run, but be hard to start, be low on power, and suck gas. Follow the directions earlier in this thread, it's amazing what doing it right does for power.

You cannot time this motor. Get it close and it does it all by itself. Mine ran without grinding the ears off the distributor. It was a bit slow to start. I reveresed it (180 degees), same result. I bought a timing light, ground off the ears, and did a 30 degree sweep off number 1. The engine will change pitch...then the computer will take over and do what it wants. If it runs good be happy, but you are not timing it.

[93_5spd]

You cannot time this motor. Get it close and it does it all by itself. Mine ran without grinding the ears off the distributor. It was a bit slow to start. I reveresed it (180 degees), same result. I bought a timing light, ground off the ears, and did a 30 degree sweep off number 1. The engine will change pitch...then the computer will take over and do what it wants. If it runs good be happy, but you are not timing it.

I got it to run at first, but found out i had the rotor 180* out. The I used the 3.0 cm distance spec'd in DIno's writeup, put the oil pump @11, turned the rotor about 20* CCW, and droped it in. Lined up perfectly with the mark i made, and was just past the #1 spot on the cap. If you have the ears ground off, you can make it "out of time" as well as if you have the rotor indexed wrong. Maybe i should have said once you get it indexed instead of in time, either way, the jeep has balls!

So far I've got 92 miles on it, loving my jeep again after not driving it since May '07

[TrojanMan]

I hear you with setting the timing correctly. I set it about 20* out and damn near killed myself for it. Should have just followed directions the first time instead of second guessing myself.

What branch are you with?

[dirty]

I got it to run at first, but found out i had the rotor 180* out. The I used the 3.0 cm distance spec'd in DIno's writeup, put the oil pump @11, turned the rotor about 20* CCW, and droped it in. Lined up perfectly with the mark i made, and was just past the #1 spot on the cap. If you have the ears ground off, you can make it "out of time" as well as if you have the rotor indexed wrong. Maybe i should have said once you get it indexed instead of in time, either way, the jeep has balls!

So far I've got 92 miles on it, loving my jeep again after not driving it since May '07

Roger. And x2 on the balls...I've never driven anything with so much low end torque.

[Arsonist_Bob]

just get a 4.7

[93_5spd]

just get a 4.7

WTF??? You go through the trouble of putting a late model SMALL V8 into my OBDI Jeep. I've got plenty of power, and still pull ~18-19MPG highway with 35's. SO much power in fact, I snapped the output shaft on my tcase, twisted the slipyoke on the driveshaft, broke my carrier, exploded the spider gears, and chipped the pinion gear. Just from a 3k RPM launch trying to 'showoff' on dry pavement when a Mustang decided he wanted to race the heavy jeep with the stroker badge. (2000 8.8 ford axle)

Keep your 4.7 and the WJ it's wrapped in. Unless you've driven one, the low end and midrange torque of a stroked I6 can not fully be appreciated. It's already cost me $800 in broken driveline parts. We'll see how the ax15 holds up!

[TrojanMan]

Sure, but you pay for the pistons and bore at the machine shop.

I do hope you're talking about a 4.6 variant.

[rob92xj]

Finally got my 4.7L done this year it is awesome. I just need to get the right injectors for it so I have been taking it easy and running 93 octane. Low end torque is great.

I used a 96 NVH block, 89 4.2L crank and rods from a friends Wrangler, .060 over Speed Pro pistons and rings Competition Cams Extreme 4x4 cam, ported and polished head, cc'd chambers, 99 WJ intake ported to match the head.


The old 4.0L next to the 4.7L