4.0L 99+ intake manifold swap with REAL DYNO NUMBERS!

[ttkammer]

GREAT INFO ON THE INTAKE SWAP! I just purchased a used intake from a 2001 GC 4.0 for $50 (score). After reading all the posts (and looking at my mom's '99 XJ), it looks like the swap onto my '98 is going to be pretty straight-forward. I do have a few additional question I was hoping y'all could help out with.

It appears that my '98 has the largest injectors (the '96-'98 #53030778 23.2lb/hr @ 49psi style). They are larger in diameter in the mid-section of the injector, but appear to be the same diameter at the base. Am I safe to assume that they will drop right into the new manifold with just new o-rings, utilizing the '98 fuel rail, brackets, clips, etc... ?

Do you think it is necessary to grind off the "bumps" on the inside of the ports (as outlined earlier)? I am a little nervous about grinding too much out of the manifold.

It also appears that the power steering pump bracket will be a direct swap. Anything I should look out for?

I also have a brand new K&N FIPK cold air intake waiting to be installed when I do the swap. This has not been on the vehicle yet. Can anyone think of any problems I am going to run into if I install this cold air intake when I do the swap?

I am also considering a bored throttle body (my new/used manifold came with the TB from the '01 GC, so I have an extra that I can send out to have bored to 62mm), but I have heard that this can mess with the computer (specifically the manifold air pressure). I have heard that this change causes the transmission to shift at the wrong times (and shift sloppily when it does). Any thoughts on this one?

I am also considering a throttle body spacer (specifically, the thicker Hesco one), but have heard there can be a few problems with this too. I have heard there is the manifold air pressure problem (again, affecting the transmission performance), and also a problem with the height of the TB with the new K&N system on it. I hear it is too high and the hood will not close. Anyone dealt with this issue?

Do you think flashing/resetting the computer and letting it re-learn will fix this, or will these changes be too far out of the "curve"? I have done this a few times with no problems, but don't know once such a big change has been made to the air intake system.

Other than the laundry list of questions I have already posted, it looks like I will need to increase the length of the MAT sensor wires (different location on the manifold), and one of the vacuum lines that runs from the manifold over to the AC tank area. Anything other wires/lines/hoses that you can think of that I need to address?

Thanking y'all in advance!

TK

'98 XJ
cardomain page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/703091
2" Lift / 30x9.50 BFG AT's
Fire-Power Ignition System
Magnaflow Cat
Flowmaster Muffler

[DJJordache]

It appears that my '98 has the largest injectors (the '96-'98 #53030778 23.2lb/hr @ 49psi style). They are larger in diameter in the mid-section of the injector, but appear to be the same diameter at the base. Am I safe to assume that they will drop right into the new manifold with just new o-rings, utilizing the '98 fuel rail, brackets, clips, etc... ?

yes your stock injectors will plug right into the newer manifold and you can reuse your stock fuel rail also. I would recommend getting new orings on the injectors while your that far in and they are already out.

Do you think it is necessary to grind off the "bumps" on the inside of the ports (as outlined earlier)? I am a little nervous about grinding too much out of the manifold.

that is up to you.... I was going for max possible flow and I ground them down since they were a restriction. It's up to you whether or not your willing to grind them down or accidentally grind through the manifold....

It also appears that the power steering pump bracket will be a direct swap. Anything I should look out for?

nope nothing special just a straight swap on 96+ 4.0L's. just take your time and organize the bolts so you can remember where they all came from.

I also have a brand new K&N FIPK cold air intake waiting to be installed when I do the swap. This has not been on the vehicle yet. Can anyone think of any problems I am going to run into if I install this cold air intake when I do the swap?

the K&N will not know the difference and will not matter what intake manifold it hooks up to. the TB's are in the same locations on both manifolds.

I am also considering a bored throttle body (my new/used manifold came with the TB from the '01 GC, so I have an extra that I can send out to have bored to 62mm), but I have heard that this can mess with the computer (specifically the manifold air pressure). I have heard that this change causes the transmission to shift at the wrong times (and shift sloppily when it does). Any thoughts on this one?

as long as the 01 TB looks just like your TB then it will be a straight swap if you have the spare one bored out.
There is not change in transmission shifting just by swapping in a bored TB.... those that had that issue must have screwed up the throttle valve cable adjustment to the transmission. I had no change in shifting and neither did my brothers stroker XJ or 4 other friends XJ's and YJ's that I have done this to.

I am also considering a throttle body spacer (specifically, the thicker Hesco one), but have heard there can be a few problems with this too. I have heard there is the manifold air pressure problem (again, affecting the transmission performance), and also a problem with the height of the TB with the new K&N system on it. I hear it is too high and the hood will not close. Anyone dealt with this issue?

TB spacers are a waste..... I have one only b/c I got it for $10, and installed it just as a butt dyno test and noticed no difference in anything.... go ahead if you want to and get it CHEAP. do not pay alot for one of these... its not worth it!
I don't know if there is a height issue with a tb spacer and a K&N... I don't use a K&N filter anymore.... they let too much dirt through, even when freshly cleaned and oiled with a K&N filter cleaning kit.

Do you think flashing/resetting the computer and letting it re-learn will fix this, or will these changes be too far out of the "curve"? I have done this a few times with no problems, but don't know once such a big change has been made to the air intake system.

During the swap it would be better to disco the battery just in case while your messing with that electronics stuff anyways for safety. when you reconnect the battery it will be reset already and ready to learn.

Other than the laundry list of questions I have already posted, it looks like I will need to increase the length of the MAT sensor wires (different location on the manifold), and one of the vacuum lines that runs from the manifold over to the AC tank area. Anything other wires/lines/hoses that you can think of that I need to address?

various vacuum lines will need to be rerouted and or extended, but most auto stores has vacuum line and tees so you can hook it up however you like. it doesn't really matter how it is hooked up, as long as the items needing vacuum get the needed vacuum to work correctly. this is also a good time to replace old rubber vacuum lines that may be cracked from age.

[mendelmax]

Sorry for bringing back the old thread, but I have just finished the swap on the 93 4.6 stroker and I have to say "WOW", that made a really sensible difference. Probably not as big as this modded 4.0 shown on the dyno, because my head is still quite restrictive, but it was worth the effort nonetheless!

Also, I have to say that this was a great write-up to follow!

BTW, I found it possible to leave the old idler pulley on the AC bracket, so I left it there since it helps some with the alternator-to-belt contact. Not much, but since I had it anyways, then why not just leave it there

[opusgamma]

Good evening all. this has been a wonderful educational tool for me.. thanks to all that have participate along the years this thread has been open.
I have a 88xj that i am in the process of doing a engine swap to a 2002 4.0l engine.
The engine came with is it fuel rail and manifol but my mechanic told me it would not work with my renix since i am keeping all my old computer stuff..
I was wodering if can stay with the new injectors and the new header sicne i dont see hwo is that coencted to my computer...

I cna do the adjustment on the powrsterrign if need .. but i would realy whant to stay with what is new...my old engine was abuse before i got it...so thi is my new baby and i ll like ot do as manny updates as posible. I got the extra part already.. what you guys think... do you need picutres?

[mendelmax]

For the new injectors you would have to change fuel rail pressure.

You would also have to find a bored Renix TB since the one from the 99+ won't work. other than that I also can't see no problem about it.

[DJJordache]

I don't know a ton about the newer 02 style fuel system...... but on my brothers renix XJ 4.7L stroker we installed new fuel lines from a 91+ XJ and plumbed those to a HO fuel rail, which will bolt to the 99+ intake manifold. doing it this way you can keep the newer injectors (as long as they are matching your fuel rail pressure)
I have also HEARD that a fuel pressure regulator from a 93 Eagle Vision TSI w/3.5L v6, factory set for 48 PSI and member EYESIC on here said he is using it on his:

Don't waste money on an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator when you want 49 PSI from a '95 or older setup. I found a FPR from a 93 Eagle Vision TSI w/3.5L v6, fastory set for 48 PSI. In actuallity, it runs at 46 psi idling with vacum connected, and 54 psi idling with it disconnected. NO PINGING, zero zilch nada.

so for future reference trying this is much cheaper than the FPR from Hesco, but I have not personally verified that it is spec'd out at 49 psi but would be worth the try if you have the fuel pressure gauges to make sure!

as for the throttle body anything is possible as long as you feed the computer the correct signals. on our 4.7stroker it is using a 68mm tb from a 4.7L v8 and just adapted the stock renix sensors onto the newer TB

[opusgamma]

thanks but let me see if i get it..
I cna leave the engine as is with then fuel rail from the 02 with its manifold and injectors ..i believe it brings its fuel pressure regulator.. and also its wiring harness.. and jsut conecto to my renix pc.. correct?
I just need to check if i am getting the amount of fuel preasure corect?

[mendelmax]

99+ has it's fuel regulator near the tank, it's not bolted to the fuel rail. But it is doable to get the regulator (it's together with the filter) and plug it into your fuel lines. I'd rather prefer to get the adjustable regulator though- good for future mods, and not so much expensive. And you keep the gas flow through the rail.

[sev]

So after 2 years of playing with the idea, I finally did this swap today. Was pretty straightforward and with my buddy's gracious help we got everything put on with minimal fuss....... except for the belt!!! How the hell do you route that thing??! Im using the gatorback belt recommended by the original poster...

No matter what we tried the belt keeps rubbing up on the timing mark indicator on the crank pulley!

Here's some pics... I had to push the ZJ into the garage and give up for the night.. Any ideas?

[DJJordache]

oh yeah. I talked about this in another thread but forgot to put it here too:

About the timing cover thing.... I didn't realize it on my swap and the belt sounded like a supercharger whine which was cool but ate 2 ribs on the expensive Gatorback belt so now it's my spare
this is what would have happened if you didn't clearance that timing thingy:


Just clearnace that tab with a die grinder or something and you will be just fine!

[sev]

The tab is used for adjusting timing right? Do all 93-95's have it? i havent heard of anyone else having this problem?

[DJJordache]

it's not needed... the dist cap is not index-able (stock) and the computer takes care of the timing.

[BC Jeep]

DJJordache

When porting a 98 Cylinder head intake and exhaust ports, how do you know whats too much? I see that you matched the gasket. No problem there but, are there any THIN casting areas to avoid?

Who did your valve work and how involved was it?

Just dont want to make a 4.0 head paper weight.

Thanks

Bill

[DJJordache]

I port matched to the gasket and even trimmed that some, hard to say how much meat there is without going too far, but yes my buddy got over excited and made a paper weight from his going WAY too far. There is a lot of material to work with especially at the port ends.
Be careful and you should be ok... take most of the material from the port ends and blend deeper from there.

As for the valve work I had that done at Longs Machine Shop in San Antonio, TX contact info is on the first page, any place should be able to do it.
I used the LS1 2.02 1.60 valves since they are cheaper than the 5.9L 2.02 1.60 mopar valves and have a thicker stem to them. The only thing special they did was drilling out the valve guides for the thicker stems and machining for the LS1 valve guides. Other than that it was just the normal valve job steps.

[sev]

BTW for refeence, I bought both the 99 and 94 manifold gaskets. Comparing the both, the 94 was a much better fit..

[DJJordache]

I just port matched the one that came with my header

[DJJordache]

blah blah blah I'm retarded!

THIS IS NOT A FOR SALE THREAD ASSHOLE!

[sev]

THIS IS NOT A FOR SALE THREAD ASSHOLE!

Hey DJ Jordache or anyone else that's done this mod. Where can I get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator..and/or the correct fuel pressure regulator for a 94...?

[DJJordache]

Hey DJ Jordache or anyone else that's done this mod. Where can I get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator..and/or the correct fuel pressure regulator for a 94...?

see post 81 for a possible alternative, although I have NOT confirmed this but it might be a MUCH cheaper alternative

or get the Hesco one:
http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=...022&catId=7973

[jeep7081]

New here. I have read through the thread and maybe missed something. I am getting parts to do a stroker to my Jeep YJ '93 HO 4.0l motor and found this site

Question? I see the shopping cartlist below.

1. What happen to parts 1-3? Are those the power steering pump?
2. What year manifold? 2000+ is fine?
3. Just manifold is needed or injectors or fuel rail?
4. Which TB do I use? the '93 or the 2000?
Anything else needed or direct bolt on after parts in hand? Remember, I have a YJ. Not sure if there is a difference on what I need?

Parts list form page #1
Part Numbers for the steering portion of the intake swap for pre 96 4.0L’s
Part number Dealer name for part Price at my dealer
4. 34202029 bolt-hex f 136c 2.95
5. 33002201 bushing-id 114b 3.35
6. 4792112 pulley 116e 20.50 (Normal ZJ idler pulley)
7. 6503230 spacer-bel 2.70
8. 53010148 bracket 15.50
9. 53010149 sleeve-ten 5.60
10. 6503198 bolt 8.75
11. Reuse yours or hardware store
Total for the power steering parts if purchased at dealer: $59.35
*serpentine belt part number 4060922 / 6PK2345 Goodyear Gatorback.

[DJJordache]

your 93 YJ should be just like my swap... IIRC the YJ is the same orientation as the single fan setup of the 4.0L ZJ. so the part number for the belt might be the same.... dunno about that but it will be the 96+ belt routing not your 93 routing.

Q1. parts
1. is the pump - yes get a 96+ to match the ps pump bracket
2. is the pulley - you can reuse yours or if you get a junkyard pump that has a pulley that is about the same, size use it
3. = 8, just a different drawing

Q2.
years 99-01 XJ 99-04 WJ 99-06 TJ

Q3.
injectors up to you - I did but also upgraded to the Hesco FPR to get 49psi
fuel rail - reuse yours

Q4. TB
reuse yours and/or bore it out on a drill press or by hand to remove the taper below he butterfly to get 60mm all the way through

Parts prices are probably higher now so to keep it cheap go to the junkyard and you can get them there also

my buddy is about to do this too in his stroker 93 YJ

[jeep7081]

Direct bolt on or modifications needed for pump and bracket (96+)

Thanks for your replies.

[MUDDTRACKS]

To bad you dont live close by my buddy is going to spend this after noon boring tb out to 61 mm for 20 bucks a pop

[jeep7081]

That's a good deal! BUMMER!

[DJJordache]

Direct bolt on or modifications needed for pump and bracket (96+)

Thanks for your replies.

the whole swap is all bolt on