Clayton off-road question

[ddoyle00]

Hey guys,

I am planning on purchasing the 6" kit from Clayton in Jan. What elsedo you recommend I buy along with it? Extended brake lines, slip-yoke eliminator, etc. Also, what's the largest size tire I can run without fear of breaking a stock axle. Its a 2000 WJ.

[ELLLLLIOTTTTT]

newb tech.

what all is included in the kit? brake lines are a must if you wheel it. I doubt you'll need the SYE. Don't forget appropriate bumpstops unless you've hacked your fenders already.

[Troy]

A SYE is good depending on how high you're lifting your rig. Extended brake lines are a must. If you're keeping your front swaybar then disconnects are nice. You can extend your rear bumpstops using washers - it's not hard to do. Your front bumpstops are a different story but there are options to choose from.

Talk with Clayton if you haven't yet (if he has time). He's a really nice guy and has all of the knowledge for what you'll need for your particular application.

What sized tires will not break stock axles??? That's a loaded question. You can break them now if you try hard enough. I wouldn't go above 33's on stock axles even with a "light" foot.

[Kraqa]

i'm moving this to Suspension NOT newb because this topic will come up often and i want to to be searchable in the right forum. No question its newb, but we do need it in the data base.

[JohnBoulderCO]

You don't need extended brake lines for a WJ.

You don't need a SYE, but you do need Double Cardon drive shafts front and rear to deal with the drive line angles and vibes.

You don't need a drop pitman arm or track bar drop bracket.
Get a JKS adjustable track bar and you are good to go.

If you have the D44AL rear, lots of people wheel with 33's with no issues.

[rrubio]

Hey guys,

I am planning on purchasing the 6" kit from Clayton in Jan. What elsedo you recommend I buy along with it? Extended brake lines, slip-yoke eliminator, etc. Also, what's the largest size tire I can run without fear of breaking a stock axle. Its a 2000 WJ.

What rear axle are you currently running now?Like John said no brake lines are required,no tracbar bracket but you will need a adj. trackbar though.Double carden driveshaft is a must if you have that weak ass cv-joint style.

[Troy]

You don't need extended brake lines for a WJ.

Sorry, missed that it's a WJ.

[CRSMacgyver]

Nobody has asked yet which tcase you have (unless I missed it for some reason). With the Qtrac and the lift you may need the front dshaft and you may want to look at a 231/242 swap....

If we can help with the Clayton's kit or anything just let me know.

Andy

[JHKolb]

Nobody has asked yet which tcase you have (unless I missed it for some reason). With the Qtrac and the lift you may need the front dshaft and you may want to look at a 231/242 swap....

If we can help with the Clayton's kit or anything just let me know.

Andy

Hey Andy -

Have you guys ever done a 231 swap in a WJ? I do not have the shop/tools/time to do this myself and would love to fine someone who can (reliably which I know you can do) built me a 231 w/4:1 & 2-low to swap into my '01 WJ.

BTW - If you don't recall you built me a bumper for my old XJ that Jerry Lake picked up for me a few years ago - very SWEET design - it got a lot of compliments, but unfortunately that Jeep had to go - replaced it with my current WJ though

[JohnBoulderCO]

Check my sig. I have a 231 from JB Conversions installed.

[Z]

This isn't just for a Clayton lift, but don't forget to create some form of front spring retainer if you have a WJ.

[AprilzWarrior]

You don't need extended brake lines for a WJ.

You don't need a SYE, but you do need Double Cardon drive shafts front and rear to deal with the drive line angles and vibes.

You don't need a drop pitman arm or track bar drop bracket.
Get a JKS adjustable track bar and you are good to go.

If you have the D44AL rear, lots of people wheel with 33's with no issues.

This is perfect info. Nothing else is needed.


I just installed a 6" Claytons kit on a Dub and this is all it needed. Besides exhaust work.

AW

[JohnBoulderCO]

True, I forgot about the exhaust. I gave up trying to fit a muffler and just ran straight pipe from the CAT to the back of the WJ. No louder then the FM40 I was running before.

[AprilzWarrior]

True, I forgot about the exhaust. I gave up trying to fit a muffler and just ran straight pipe from the CAT to the back of the WJ. No louder then the FM40 I was running before.

When I cut the exhaust behind the Cat on the 4.7, it sounds KILLER... better without a muffler IMO...


AW

[Tommy]

Flowmaster has a muffler called the hushmaster I beleive. Hardly that, but that is what it is named. IOt is 5 inches wide and 24.5"'s long. It was perfect when i did my four link. Things sound tits to.

[CRSMacgyver]

John,
Yup, I remember you well. Give me a shout at the shop tomorrow, I will be happy to take care of that work for you. We have done a few of them with no problems. Just need to figure out whick input you have for the tcase. I can swap that and go from there. Give me a shout monday at the shop

704-525-5109

Thanks
Andy

Hey Andy -

Have you guys ever done a 231 swap in a WJ? I do not have the shop/tools/time to do this myself and would love to fine someone who can (reliably which I know you can do) built me a 231 w/4:1 & 2-low to swap into my '01 WJ.

BTW - If you don't recall you built me a bumper for my old XJ that Jerry Lake picked up for me a few years ago - very SWEET design - it got a lot of compliments, but unfortunately that Jeep had to go - replaced it with my current WJ though

[AprilzWarrior]

Flowmaster has a muffler called the hushmaster I beleive. Hardly that, but that is what it is named. IOt is 5 inches wide and 24.5"'s long. It was perfect when i did my four link. Things sound tits to.

Good to hear... If you can get a sound bite that would be killer !


Id love to know how it sounds... as I might go with it when I 4 Link the rear.


AW

[CRSMacgyver]

That muffler is called a Hushpower. Only problem is that they are only rated up to 200 HP max..........

They are relatively expensive but work very well. We typically use one per bank/side.

Andy

[ddoyle00]

With the 6 inch lift, I will need a double cardon drive shaft for my stock with a NV 242 and a JKS adjustable track bar?

I will not need any extended brake lines, no SYE, no drop pitman arms or track relocation brackets.

13 more days and I will be back in America. Dreaming about this has been one of the few things that has kept me going. Well,Taco Bell too. I can only take so much Muslim yodeling.

I apologize to anyone reading this if I came across as a dick in my responses. The last few weeks are usually the worst before someone leaves.

Thanks for the help.

[zj-monster]

The last few weeks are usually the worst before someone leaves.

If you think chasing insurgents in an IFV is bad, try chasing them on foot with the ISOF house to house. Then find out that they ran across the Syrian border during the night. That's what happened with my team before I left Iraq & that made me very angry. Just make it home alive brother...

So, as to not throw this whole thread off topic. I was about to order the full Calyton's Hard-Arm kit pictured below untill I read parts of this thread. I wanted this kit because I like the idea of having it welded on versus bolting the RE kit. Though I'm sure any kit can welded on if done right.



I've noticed that there doesn't seem to be a wide variety of SYE kits for the NV242 anyway. In fact I think RE is the only one I've seen that offers one. I was planning for 4.5 to 5" of lift. To make matters worse I have the D35 but I don't see myself doing an axle swap anytime soon. How bad would it suck to mount the truss on my D35 for now, knowing that I'll eventually end up changing the axle in the future?

Ah...the joys of making decisions. BTW, this is a good thread so let's keep it going. I am definetly gonna check out Carolina rock Shop.

[OverkillZJ]

If you put the truss on a 35, just by a new one when you get a new axle.. I think it runs $150 separately

[AprilzWarrior]

Though I'm sure any kit can welded on if done right.

Well.... RE kit is powder coated SO grinding off that crap to weld it would suck. The RE kit also is designed to sandwich the unibody with small "rails" of steel. Not my idea of a great kit but it works. Welding it on would be a PITA but could be done.

Rustys and RK could also be welded. I did throw some welds on a Rock Krawler kit ones just for that little extra strength.

Rock Controls kit was fully weld on as well. Dont know if thats still around.


Really... just get Claytons and be done with it... who else will back their kit like he does anyway ? LIFETIME ?


AW