ABS System Delete

[96JGCL]

Bump, just finished some work on the pig, managed too Pull the ABS in under 45 min. Didn't have the fittings too reconnect the lines, but i gotta replace the lines anyways since they're rotted, So i crimped the lines and plugged the system, ill wait till i replace the lines too fix it.

Easy as hell, but..

pull fuse + abs pump relay = no light

I yanked the ABS relay under the hood, Now wheres the fuse? cuz that light is crazy annoying

[96JGCL]

Bumporino

Just Cleaned up the master, and got a new line run too the back (All lines were rotten too shit.

Pulled the fuse, so the damn ABS light went off.

jeeps got back brakes only and all i can say is holy fuck those things are weak. Ill be happy when i can get a t-block and finish the front brakes.

Very easy and worthwhile mod!

[TheCompound]

I dont have time to remove the whole ABS system from the 1994 ZJ. My problem is the lines in the wheel wells are interfering with the springs. What would happen if i just removed those lines (i.e.. cut them) but left the rest of the system?
I know this is a half ass way to do this but i have a no time and a trip planned for this weekend.
thanks,
-theCompound

[FortCollinsZJ]

I cut mine LONG before I removed the ABS pump. Just unbolt the sensor at the wheels (inside the knuckle) then un-clip the sensor at the pump, then the whole line comes out. Or just cut it like you said.

[TheCompound]

I cut mine LONG before I removed the ABS pump. Just unbolt the sensor at the wheels (inside the knuckle) then un-clip the sensor at the pump, then the whole line comes out. Or just cut it like you said.

Thank you!
-TheCompound

[stockzjwnc]

How do i get the ABS light to go off on the dash?

[SirFuego]

Remove the bulb.

[IndyZJ]

How do i get the ABS light to go off on the dash?

Read the thread before posting. Posts 37 and 52 both answer your question.

[TheCompound]

How do i get the ABS light to go off on the dash?

I dont look at the dash gauges!
-TheCompound

[Dragonfuel]

The ABS system on my 98 looked nothing close to the setup on your 93.

I just pulled the pump out and was able to use the stock lines after unbending them and bending them where I needed them to go.

It didn't make any difference for my braking since the system wasn't working anyway, but I didn't have a reason to keep it under the hood.

So I am in the process of Neutering my ABS system. Pump/Cab Module, sensors & lines.

On my 97 Grand w/ 5.2, the master cylinder has two lines coming out (Primary and Secondary) and feeding in to the proportioning/combination valve, then to the Pump/Cab module. Did you just use a "T" Union to split the front brake's? I see the Pump has 2 lines coming in and 3 out. One for each front wheel and one to the rear brakes.

If yes, is this system working with no brake pull from one side to the other? Just curious?

[jborushko]

here is another guide.

it is a non abs XJ using the stock ZJ valve for a rear disk brake swap, i used it because im tearing out the abs and have disk in the back and obviously had a stock ZJ prop valve

this one reuses the stock [ZJ] proportioning valve.

http://www.jeep-xj.info/HowtoZJvalve.htm

this is a xj write up using a zj valve so you already have the valve in the write up. all you do is add a line to what is already there by removing a plug. this is for disk brakes.

i used the above to cut mine [abs] out, i just finished yesterday- it took me forever to find "speed bleed" bleed screws around here! ill report on this when i get my rear diff filled up so i can test drive it. i like the "speed bleeders" because they have a check valve in them, so you dont have to have a buddy while bleeding brakes! - i often work alone.

EDIT: also i replaced ALL the lines. 25" of 3/16 brake line was less than $20 from autozone then a few correct fittings $5ish for a 5ea box - i bought a few different types but i have a few different vehicles im doing brakes on. also a conversion piece for like $2. so all in all i payed around $40 to completely re-plumb everything - again with i bought extra fittings, you would probably pay less. Personally why waist time with old lines that could be rotted or junk yard they maybe cut somewhere! i look the gravel guards off all the old lines and placed them on the new ones after cleaning them up (wd-40 and a wire brush) and i was having a hell of a time trying to flare the OE lines!

and as far as ABS lights go... i took out the main fuse in the relay box in the engine bay along with the ABS relay. then the small fuse in side the cab relay box this killed the light. so a total of two fuses and one relay had to be removed to kill the light. i also removed the sensors from the fronts(pulled out of the connectors in the engine bay) the rear had been long since cut when i tried the 8.8 abs mod - 8.8 mod didnt work for me

[Dragonfuel]

here is another guide.

it is a non abs XJ using the stock ZJ valve for a rear disk brake swap, i used it because im tearing out the abs and have disk in the back and obviously had a stock ZJ prop valve

this one reuses the stock [ZJ] proportioning valve.

http://www.jeep-xj.info/HowtoZJvalve.htm

this is a xj write up using a zj valve so you already have the valve in the write up. all you do is add a line to what is already there by removing a plug. this is for disk brakes.

i used the above to cut mine [abs] out, i just finished yesterday- it took me forever to find "speed bleed" bleed screws around here! ill report on this when i get my rear diff filled up so i can test drive it. i like the "speed bleeders" because they have a check valve in them, so you dont have to have a buddy while bleeding brakes! - i often work alone.

EDIT: also i replaced ALL the lines. 25" of 3/16 brake line was less than $20 from autozone then a few correct fittings $5ish for a 5ea box - i bought a few different types but i have a few different vehicles im doing brakes on. also a conversion piece for like $2. so all in all i payed around $40 to completely re-plumb everything - again with i bought extra fittings, you would probably pay less. Personally why waist time with old lines that could be rotted or junk yard they maybe cut somewhere! i look the gravel guards off all the old lines and placed them on the new ones after cleaning them up (wd-40 and a wire brush)

and as far as ABS lights go... i took out the main fuse in the relay box in the engine bay along with the ABS relay. then the small fuse in side the cab relay box this killed the light. so a total of two fuses and one relay had to be removed to kill the light. i also removed the sensors from the fronts(pulled out of the connectors in the engine bay) the rear had been long since cut when i tried the 8.8 abs mod - 8.8 mod didnt work for me

That's good info. However, I have rear disc's and was going to "delete" the ABS Motor/CAB assembly. I will try to take pics and document everything on here if poss.

[jborushko]

That's good info. However, I have rear disc's and was going to "delete" the ABS Motor/CAB assembly. I will try to take pics and document everything on here if poss.

right, thats what i did. i used the plumbing in the link as a guide - i also have rear disks. the guy was using a zj prop valve because he was doing a disk brake conversion

[jborushko]

well the heep stops! so it at least works.

i havent had a chance to try a full out 60-0 stop but driving around the block and in the driveway. it stopped my rig. i believe i may still have some air in the lines so i have to bleed again.

im rocking front wheel drive at the moment as i need a new rear shaft.

so when i get my tabs updated, rear drive-shaft in, and a bleed ill try stops at increasing speeds, and a few slam on the brake stops too.

[K2]

After finishing this last night I have a few thoughts. Buy at least two new lines, front driver and the rear. I tried to flare them and it wasn't worth the hassle. Just buy some lines the right length so you can bend them right to where you need them. Don't be cheap, not worth your time. I needed a T, 3 lines, 2 were for the rear, a 72" and a 30" worked, I also used a conversion for the rear out of the proportioning valve to standard 3/16ths line. I put in SS flex lines at the same time. I think the brakes are better but I also put 33s on so it is hard to tell. I can grab some pics and part numbers tonight if anyone wants.

[firehawkclone]

I just completed this, though I haven't drove it yet.

After reading the tread several times, I went to the parts store and picked up most of the common parts listed here. Unless you suspect your brake lines for corrosion you may not need most of it.

This is what I did. You'll need two flare nuts and a T fitting and a small piece (2") of tubing. I bought a 8" line. All need to be 3/16. After removing abs unit loosen the lines and rotate propositioning valve. You'll have to bend the short line a bit. Cut the flex line from abs to PP valve and reuse both fittings on the PP valve. Now just cut bend and flare all the lines till you are happy.



P#'s 130333(t fitting) 121003(flare fittings)

[redneckrollercoaster]

...I will MOST LIKELY get flamed for this question, but I'll ask it anyway. Does a proportioning valve HAVE to be horizontal or can it sit kinda vertical? Did the delete and I still have s*&tferbrakes (low pedal, weak stop, will be replacing mc with stock replacement this weekend). Have rodeo rear w/ discs, waggy 44 front, disc/drum mc w/ disc/disc prop valve. Bled to my heart's discontent to no avail. No my calipers aren't upside down, new loaded calipers and rotors all around...before I throw more time and money at this thing could it be as simple as putting the prop valve in the right position (like all of you folks did)? I'll throw in another stupid question as well. The writeup says to plug the equalizer hoses coming off the side of the fluid reservoir...I thought I'd be a smart guy and just connect one hose to both ports. Could that be part of my problem as well? Yeah, I chose to make THIS my inaugural post on MALLCRAWLIN. I would put up a picture but I AM ASHAMED. My zeej has kinda always had weak brakes, that's why I think it might be the MC. If I posted this wrong it's because I am less proficient at this 'net stuff than I am on diagnosing my own brake problems. Thanks and hello all.

[albertazj]

The proportioning valve can be mounted any way. They use a spring, piston and pressure to work, nothing that would require gravity or specific orientation to work

[96JGCL]

So I am in the process of Neutering my ABS system. Pump/Cab Module, sensors & lines.

On my 97 Grand w/ 5.2, the master cylinder has two lines coming out (Primary and Secondary) and feeding in to the proportioning/combination valve, then to the Pump/Cab module. Did you just use a "T" Union to split the front brake's? I see the Pump has 2 lines coming in and 3 out. One for each front wheel and one to the rear brakes.

If yes, is this system working with no brake pull from one side to the other? Just curious?

IIRC, i used the stock prop. valve and ran one line too the drivers front, one line too the passenger front, than the 3rd back too the t fitting on the rear axle. works like a charm

[redneckrollercoaster]

Thanks alberta...one less thing to troubleshoot.

[98zjkid]

has anyone changed out there stock proportioning valve for one from a 98 99 cherokee one that didnt have abs so that way ud have all three lines to the valve instead of the t for the two fonts?

[OverkillZJ]

^ What?

[moparrr07]

has anyone changed out there stock proportioning valve for one from a 98 99 cherokee one that didnt have abs so that way ud have all three lines to the valve instead of the t for the two fonts?

a brake line t for the part store is way cheaper, plus the prop valve in an xj is for drum rear brakes, it will be all sorts of wrong

[polar_jeep_04]

This might be an unnecessary bump but I'm doing this on a 5.9 and there is no need for a T. The stock valve has a fitting already for the other front line. Looks cleaner and factory without a T and its one less junction to worry about.