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10-17-2005, 09:25 AM
Im not responsible if you fuck this up!!!
Removal of the ABS Unit.
- Unbolt the cradle.
- I removed the proportioning valve with the abs, but later re-used it. You can leave it to save you a step.
- Cut the rubber equalizer hoses.
- Unscrew/Cut the rear line and the drivers side line. The passenger side runs nicely along the firewall. I cut it, but later re-flared it.
Much cleaner...well.....not "clean"
The evil brake taker-awayer!!!
Brake line install. Looking up from underneath the drivers side where the new lines run through.
Dry running a 40" 3/16 line through the bottom.
Union of the 40" and a 72" line. A little long, but gives you what you need to work with.
Installation of the lines
- The rear line is the rearward placed one of the two. The factory adapters are used in the front and rear of the proportioning valve outlet.
- The front line is 1/2"-20 (green). I had to flare this one together. I ran mine under the master cylinder and over to the fender where the junction is. The passenger side line I moved over to meet the junction.
The drivers side is now connected. I way over estimated the line, so just ran it around the front side there. I'll change it later. Plug the rubber equalizer hoses and its pretty much done.
The rear is simple. I didn't feel I needed to further explain it. I have an 8.8, so all you do is run the line into the ford rubber extension. You can mount it how ever you like.
Road test was great. Since I have rear discs now, the rear brakes to a long more work, which I like, which is why I didn't go with the later ZJ proportioning valve for rear discs. The light is forever on now, so i'd recommend yanking the bulb. Overdrive wasn't effected either.
Last edited by gearhead313; 10-17-2005 at 09:38 AM.
Originally Posted by OverkillZJ
10-17-2005, 10:22 AM
Or you could just disconnect one of the sensors . . .
10-17-2005, 10:43 AM
Works with our little axles, but when you get into one ton axles and no longer want the proportioning valve in there: this is the route to go. I'll be doing the same. I don't want an entire valving system there I'm not using.
Good writeup!
10-17-2005, 01:51 PM
you may want to add a coil for a strain relief so the line doesn't burst under pressure.
10-17-2005, 05:52 PM
The coils are used for cooling, I have never seen a line burst.
I agree, a different proportioning valve should be used. My application though, it works fine.
Originally Posted by OverkillZJ
10-20-2005, 01:55 AM
the coils arn't used for cooling. they are ther on vehicles with frames and body mounts to isolate the vibration , MC mounted on cab, break linses mounted on frame. it needs a could to isolate the vibration between the two. and cause when you press on the break the line want to straighten , if its already straight then it wants to burst.
10-20-2005, 11:54 AM
I dunno what kinda crack happens up in canadia thur, but the coils are for heat dissipation. Don't spread mis-information if you don't know what your talking about.
Originally Posted by OverkillZJ
10-20-2005, 12:11 PM
I'm with Kris on this one.. Coils allow lines to flex or bend along with a body/frame combination... Just look on any Toyota. Our unibody jeeps didn't get them because the body and frame were not intended to flex separately, since they are unitized on Grand Cherokees, Cherokees, and similarly grocery-oriented vehicles.
Looks good though. I need to get around to that.. How much does all that crap weigh?
Last edited by ATL ZJ; 10-20-2005 at 12:14 PM.
10-20-2005, 03:18 PM
Put down your crack pipe and get off yoru high horse!
I will never tell people they are 100% wrong unless i KNOW they are
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question453.htm
10-20-2005, 03:20 PM
You might also want to get a new MC, yours looks melted. After looking at that i would question the condition of the internal seals.
10-20-2005, 03:55 PM
Sorry, I'm with Kraqa on this one too. The coils are DEFINITELY there to absorb movement over more tube to prevent them from failing. Nothing to do with cooling, I've never even heard that before...
10-21-2005, 10:29 AM
well good thing you posted the link, b/c we are talking about 2 totally different things. "coiling" brakelines is one thing... this is what I was talking about:
the abs unit and the bracket arn't that heavy. If i was keeping the rig, it makes a ton of room to bob the front.
my master cylinder is fine. I've been driving it around and I have awesome pedal. What needs done though is the reservoir. Fire sux.
Originally Posted by OverkillZJ
10-21-2005, 08:31 PM
I was under the impression those were on the line to help protect it.
10-21-2005, 10:11 PM
LOL, they are... also keep it from kinking when you bent it.
10-21-2005, 10:39 PM
yes that too. never herd of them for cooling
10-22-2005, 07:44 PM
They only cool it if they are painted yellow...
Also if you are able to paint the line yellow and the coil blue they give you 50 HP...
11-13-2005, 06:16 PM
Those coils ? For Cooling HUH ?well good thing you posted the link, b/c we are talking about 2 totally different things. "coiling" brakelines is one thing... this is what I was talking about:
Sure its not called Gravel Guard ? I luv know it alls.
http://www.classictube.com/products.asp
bottom of page. just for Example.
Last edited by AprilzWarrior; 11-30-2005 at 02:13 PM.
Originally Posted by DankNesS
11-10-2006, 05:28 PM
you got your line backwards on the valve the front fitting is the rear. just a little info i looked it up in the factory manual
11-10-2006, 06:21 PM
The ABS system on my 98 looked nothing close to the setup on your 93.
I just pulled the pump out and was able to use the stock lines after unbending them and bending them where I needed them to go.
It didn't make any difference for my braking since the system wasn't working anyway, but I didn't have a reason to keep it under the hood.
11-11-2006, 01:17 AM
I need to get some of those cooling coils! I bet I could stop another 25' shorter!
11-17-2006, 01:16 AM
If its called gravel guard, then why is it all the way up to the master cylinder? Seriously, like gravel is going to hurt those lines to the effect that those coils will save it? I dont think so "know it all"
The coiling is on there from the factory, why doesn't someone call Chryslers' R&D engineers for answers?
There is no way to reverse the lines, they are two different metric sizes.
Originally Posted by OverkillZJ
11-17-2006, 01:45 AM
Seriously... I POSTED A FAWKING Link, so this proves you just like to argue, hence you being a "know it all". Try searching, or use Google, it works. Nevermind, you knew it already... thats why YOU SAID they are there too COOL !!!! LMAO.
Keep up the great Tech MrHead !
Last edited by AprilzWarrior; 11-17-2006 at 01:47 AM.
Originally Posted by DankNesS
11-17-2006, 10:52 AM
Sooo uh, you're still trying to argue it's for cooling?
11-17-2006, 11:06 AM
Uh...cooling eh? Riiiiiiiiiiiiight......
Oh and deleting ABS is a pain in the fucking ass.
11-17-2006, 11:13 AM
Deleting ABS is pretty easy. I did in my ZJ a while back. Took me maybe 2 hrs all said and done and like $10 of parts. I did have the intake and exhaust removed though, so it made it a bit easier.
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