Thread: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone

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  1. #26  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zjmike4
    I think you should get the 231 HD, i have that and I really like it, I get no vibes now after I threw on the Kevins crossmember.
    Do you have the SYE on your 231? Wondering why you had vibs.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  2. #27  
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    i still don't understand why no one has looked at the d300.
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  3. #28  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner Cody's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnBoulderCO

    Cody, is your secret really the twin sticks? Is that what gets the girls to hop in your rig? If so, maybe I should get the Atlas.
    You got it. Every girl aspires to have two sticks of their own don't they? We're talking about jeeps still here.

    One thing to consider if you're trying to save money, is that the Atlas, 231, d300 are all different dimensions and will most likely need different lenght driveshafts than what you had before. The 242 is probably close to the same size, but everything else will be different. FWIW, Tom Woods has proved to be extremely grand cherokee friendly when building driveshafts for us.

    Cody
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  4. #29  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Yeah, both my shafts are Woody's!

    Well, I checked into getting the NVG241J 4:1 Rubi from JB Conversions. It wouldn't work. Measured more stuff. The out put shaft from the transmission is too short, won't reach the Rubi input. He tried this before and it was a dead end.

    I considered the Atlas for a second, then came back to earth.

    I just ordered a NP231HD SYE Super Short with electronic speed output included from JB Conversions. Having the shorter shaft length and all the HD goodies should make it the strongest 231 available. All new parts.

    I know I could have had the Atlas for $800 more, but then I would need two new drive shafts and linkages to mess with.....I didn't want a summer project during wheeling season.

    Should have it in a week. The front CV shaft will bolt on, then get a new rear shaft from Tom Wood's and I'm rolling.

    Also with the speed output on the 231, I can do a 8.8 swap without moving tone rings if I want to give up ABS.

    But that will wait until winter time. It's wheeling weather and I need to wheel and break more shit!
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  5. #30  
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    to address the drive shft issue. you can get a drive shaft from the rear of a pick up F250 f30 even som f150 with the slip in the middle of the shaft for liek 50$. then most drive shaft places will shorten it for around 40 or so and balance for 25. at least thats what it costs around here. i dont; know how much tom wood is charging but that has to be cheeper.
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  6. #31  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    That's a good idea.
    Tom Wood makes a new HD CV drive shaft for $300 shipped to your door using your measurements.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  7. #32  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner Cody's Avatar
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    Make sure you tell Tom that you met him down at GSW. He'll cut you a smokin deal..

    I won't say numbers, but I got front and rear gold seal 1310 drivelines (non-cv) for about half of what you would expect.

    Cody
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  8. #33  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip! But I don't think I met him. What does he look like, in case he asks?
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  9. #34  
    Caucasian Sensation Staff ELLLLLIOTTTTT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnBoulderCO
    Thanks for the tip! But I don't think I met him. What does he look like, in case he asks?
    just tell him you brought your jeep into his shop that weekend, there were about 100 of us in and out of there that weekend.
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  10. #35  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Tom wasn't in a discount mood this morning. But I did get a few bucks off the new drive shaft for name dropping NAGCA!

    I put the NP231HD SYE in last night. Very sweet, no issues. The front drive shaft will work just fine, just need a new rear shaft.

    I will figure out the linkage this weekend. I plan on testing it out next weekend!
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  11. #36  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    The 247 shift plate is too long for the 231. It hits the 231 case in the 2Hi position. So, do I make a custom plate? Hmmmm, then I notice something.

    There is a mount on the transmission that allows the shift linkage cable to be in a higher location (NV247 location) or a lower location, maybe for the 242?

    So, I moved the cable to the lower location and ditched the 247 shift plate and used a 231 shift plate that had a pin for a cable. The 231 pin is a larger diameter then the 247 pin, go figure. So, I machined down the 231 pin to match the 247 pin diameter. Put in on and Vola! the shifting works. If the 242 is also in the higher location, then was Jeep thinking about putting a 231 in the WJ? Why the second cable location? Well, it was nice it was there, made things easy.

    Just need to install the new Woody rear drive shaft and I'm ready to roll.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  12. #37  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Well, I trail tested it and every thing works fine. It is harder to shift than the NV247, but that's not a big deal. The bezel positions don't line up, but that's not a big deal either. The rear vibration is gone!

    Note: if you do a T-case swap, take the time to replace the seal on the Transmission output shaft (which goes into the T-case). Easy to do and only $20.

    I thought it would be fine, wrong, it started leaking transmission fluid on the trail. Last night I pulled the T-case, replaced the seal and put everything back together in less then 4 hours. I'm spending too much time under the Jeep!
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  13. #38 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
    Member Lbrty9's Avatar
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    John,

    Any update on this swap? Still working good? I need to get to a short SYE and am considering this swap. Would you do it again?
    99 GC, 4.7, 6" Clayton's LA, 315/75/R16's, FIPK, 3 inch Kolak exhaust, VIAIR 450 OBA, front ARB with Warn HS9500, Kevin's Sliderz, full skids, SURCO, Hi-Lift, Xenon's with Kolak harness, more to follow.
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  14. #39 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Yep, still working fine. I like having 2WD. That should work out nice when I get a new front axle with hubs.

    Do it again? Yes, if the end game is ~35's-37's.
    I haven't second guessed my T-case swap or Clayton's.

    If building a buggy, going to 40's, wanting twin sticks, want to do front digs or have extra cash, go for the atlas or stak.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  15. #40 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
    Senior Member nate's Avatar
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    Kinda like the big tall cop dude on Everyone Loves Raymond... talks like that too.

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnBoulderCO View Post
    Thanks for the tip! But I don't think I met him. What does he look like, in case he asks?
    03 Subaru WRX
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  16. #41 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nate View Post
    Kinda like the big tall cop dude on Everyone Loves Raymond... talks like that too.
    I ran Spike with Tom Woods last year. Great guy. Nice that he had an on board welder for Ryan's LCA's.

    Note: This is an old thread (over 3 years old). I answered the previous post question.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  17. #42 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
    Member Lbrty9's Avatar
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    This thread just keeps popping back up... Anyway, I have the 231 sitting in my garage and the 247 is out. I notice that there is a threaded hole on the 231 that doesn't exist on the 247 as well as an electrical connector on the shorty SYE. Am I safe in just putting in a plug and taping off the connector. Doesn't look like either is used for the WJ.

    1 more stupid question... What type of fluid are you running? Customer support at JB Conversions is usually awesome, but I suspect they are out wheeling today or maybe even getting hammered by the weather today.
    Last edited by Lbrty9; 05-04-2009 at 09:45 PM.
    99 GC, 4.7, 6" Clayton's LA, 315/75/R16's, FIPK, 3 inch Kolak exhaust, VIAIR 450 OBA, front ARB with Warn HS9500, Kevin's Sliderz, full skids, SURCO, Hi-Lift, Xenon's with Kolak harness, more to follow.
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  18. #43 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
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    I apologize for bumping a 7 year old thread but i figure ill start here before starting a new thread.
    I have recently gone through the process of building a 231 HD with a 6 pinion planetary, 1.25 wide chain, and Rugged Ridge SYE. I used the input shaft from my 247 and the bearings are the same width as the short shaft that was in the 231 originally so everything should be lined up correctly concerning the input shaft depth. The upgraded internals were purchased as a kit from eBay and as far as I can tell are the correct internals out of either a dodge or chevy 231 variant. The gear cut is also correct and matching (231 96+, internals 96+)

    Everything is assembled (not sealed yet) and I can shift through all 4 positions. 4lo works fine, Neutral allows input to spin independently from the two output yokes, 4 hi works like it should.

    My problem is when I shift into 2 hi the front output yoke is still locked to the main shaft. Shifting with the back of the case off I can see that the mode sleeve (large selector that locks the main shaft spur gear with the front output spur gear) does not move far enough down the shaft to disengage the splines on the end of the spur gear assembly on the main shaft (thereby disconnecting the chain from the front output spur gear). This happens regardless of orientation of the mode sleeve.

    Also i noticed that the main shaft does not fully bottom out on in the bearing cup inside the input shaft/ planetary assembly when the rear output yoke is installed. The main shaft gets pulled rearward about a half inch when the rear cone/output yoke is installed.

    I've done a good but of reading and cant seem to find what I did wrong. Thanks in advance for the help.
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  19. #44 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner
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    I would recommend taking some good pictures
    01 WJ
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  20. #45 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
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    So i looked at it again last night and by some unbelievable stroke of luck, the junkyard 231 I paid $50 for had a Tera 2Lo shift plate installed in it by who ever owned it last. What I thought was 2 hi was actually 4 hi.
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  21. #46 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
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    Just following up for anyone having the same issue. I found that there was a substantial amount of radial play in the mode shift fork shaft causing the journal pin to bind instead of slide along the track of the shift plate, thus keeping me from shifting.

    I replaced the part and reassembled everything with a shit ton of moly grease and sure nuff it shifts like butter.

    Aside from a TeraLow doubler i've "manifest destinied" my 231.
    6 pinion planetary, 1.25" wide chain, Tera2Low, and RR SYE.
    Im confident I could do this again with my eyes closed and one hand tied behind my back after the number of times I tore this damn thing apart and reassembled it....
    Last edited by snaps; 03-02-2016 at 04:56 PM.
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  22. #47 Re: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    I dissembled mine twice, in the the Red Stone Parking lot, to replace the range fork (the root case was found the second time, being worn/missing spacers in the 6 gear planetary set).

    This was at two different GSW events, it was becoming an every-other parking lot adventure with fellow GSW'ers helping me out. Just saying....
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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