Thread: Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone

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  1. #1 Found My Rear Vibration, NV247 Almost Gone 
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    I was under the Jeep and saw oil all over the rear of the NV247. U-joint grease on the under body. Looks like something isn't happy.

    I grabbed the CV end of the drive shaft and gave it a wiggle. The out put shaft moves a ton in every direction. Not good.

    Put it on jack stands, take the rear drive shaft off and checked the out put shaft, it isn't bent. But, having all the play can't be good.

    Check the oil, it's got metal shavings in it. Shit.

    So, I must have spun a bearing that took out part of the case, for all that play, or something worse for T-case oil to be everywhere.

    Question: Worth a tear down rebuild or swap in a NP231 HD with a SYE?
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  2. #2  
    Senior Member Troy's Avatar
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    no brainer, go with the 231 HD with SYE.
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  3. #3  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    I kinda figured that.

    But it's good to have a second opinion and I felt like sharing my pain.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  4. #4  
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    Another vote for 231HD w/ SYE, I love the simplicity of mine


    Hell, throw a 2-low kit in it while you're at it, that I love too
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  5. #5  
    Senior Member JpRngr's Avatar
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    Stak!
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  6. #6  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner Mtn WJ's Avatar
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    John

    You should talk to A-1 Transmission too and see what they would charge to set up a 231 or a 242? I have only purchased parts their for my 242 and they seem to know what they are doing. They figured out that the WJ 242 front shaft is 1/4 longer than other 242 and were able to set me up with a yoke and front shaft that worked with my HD drive shaft. Phone number is 303 623 1401.

    Keith
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  7. #7  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JpRngr
    Stak!
    205/203 ??? Not sure what you meant by that.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  8. #8  
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    ahh d300 and i'l make you a twin stick flip kit.
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  9. #9  
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverkillZJ
    Another vote for 231HD w/ SYE, I love the simplicity of mine


    Hell, throw a 2-low kit in it while you're at it, that I love too
    I 2nd the 2-low kit, then we can all laugh at John like we laugh at Matt when he forgets to put it in 4x4!!
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  10. #10  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    The WJ needs a longer 23 spline input shaft then the standard NP231's, so it needs to be built.

    A1 Transmission wants $875 for a NP231 with SYE made from used parts.
    JB Conversion wants $975 for a HD NP231 with SYE made from all new HD parts.

    Anyone build these for less?
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  11. #11  
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    You can build one in your garage for less I'm sure. They're not too bad.
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  12. #12  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaveZJ
    You can build one in your garage for less I'm sure. They're not too bad.
    That's what I was thinking, but I would need to get the correct input shaft, etc. Figured there might be someone local that builds these for less $$$
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  13. #13  
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaveZJ
    Quote Originally Posted by OverkillZJ
    Another vote for 231HD w/ SYE, I love the simplicity of mine


    Hell, throw a 2-low kit in it while you're at it, that I love too
    I 2nd the 2-low kit, then we can all laugh at John like we laugh at Matt when he forgets to put it in 4x4!!
    Ya, but you can smile when you realize you made it up hard obsticles in 2-low without even realizing it
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  14. #14  
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnBoulderCO
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaveZJ
    You can build one in your garage for less I'm sure. They're not too bad.
    That's what I was thinking, but I would need to get the correct input shaft, etc. Figured there might be someone local that builds these for less $$$
    Can't you just take the shaft out of the existing case and swap it in??

    More trailblazing for you and more footsteps to follow for me (Is a group by > or = 2?)

    David
    2001 WJ
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  15. #15  
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    If your swapping t-cases you might as well do it right.

    look for a d20 or d300 ......$150-200
    Flip kit..............................$500
    Clocking ring.....................$75





    NP231..............................$500
    SYE..................................$260 (http://www.rubicon4x4.com/catalog/ad...p-p-14785.html)

    Plus the tera 2low......

    not that much difrence. Except with the d300 you would have a twin stick thats way stronger.
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  16. #16  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Halfdoc
    Can't you just take the shaft out of the existing case and swap it in?? David
    I think so, but there is something messed up big time with the NV247, so the shaft my be scored by burnt bearings. Might be a dead end for me to reuse, and build a junk yard NP231 using my shaft.

    My drive shaft will not go in the slip yoke any further then the resting position. Something is bent, got bent, broke, twisted, etc.

    I hope it only trashed the T-case and not the pinion on the D44AL or I will have another swap to start.
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  17. #17  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Kraqa. Good ideas and prices.

    I took the NV247 out tonight. It's not that heavy. Turns out it's shifted by a cable so it should be easy to adapt a NP231. Just move/adapt the shift plate from one to the other. Leave the bezel inside as is, who cares, just mark it with something for the new positions.

    I measured the input shaft dims...now it's time to think.

    Do I just drop the coin and have one built or fuss around with it in the garage for another week or two?

    Time for some while I ponder.
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  18. #18  
    Senior Member GSSW Planner
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    This guy has some great write ups.

    247-->231:

    http://65.42.106.152/forums/showthread.php?t=423445

    speedo fix:

    http://65.42.106.152/forums/showthread.php?t=456577


    David.
    2001 WJ
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  19. #19  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    David,
    Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    I was just reading that. I think he could have moved the 247 shift plate to the 231 (with some mods) and it would have been cake.

    Based on some prices looks to be around $500-$600 used + SYE and use my shaft (hope it isn't toast) or $800-$900 for a drop in. I'm all for saving some $$$ but if my shaft is toast, $260 for a new one from the dealer, I checked, I might as well save the time and buy one with all new parts ready to go.

    John
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  20. #20  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    I was pondering some more I think I busted this during GSW.

    Corey and I were driving on I-70 between 75-85mph and I had no vibs.
    Coming back I had vibs and couldn't drive much over 60mph.
    I noticed my driver's side rear axle was bent, so I thought it was that and replaced it. No change in vibes.

    Went wheeling last weekend and the vibes were worse coming home.

    Come to find that my slip yoke will not go in the T-case past the resting position.

    I wonder if climbing shit in Moab caused a bind on the slip yoke (my drive shaft angle is 16 degrees at 6"+ of lift) which put some kind of kink or twist in the slip yoke or out put shaft. Then I climbed, slid back and since my shaft wouldn't go in the T-case, it broke something inside...bearing, clips, etc. then the play started which caused the vibes on the way home from Moab. Now the thing is just falling apart and that is why oil is everywhere underneath.

    Hmmmmm, seems a slip yoke, even with a CV, might not be the smart thing when you have more lift and more drive shaft angle.

    I need some more to ponder my situation some more.
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  21. #21  
    Senior Member JpRngr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnBoulderCO
    Quote Originally Posted by JpRngr
    Stak!
    205/203 ??? Not sure what you meant by that.
    http://www.stak4x4.com/index.html
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  22. #22  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Pretty cool! But $2800 is gonna hurt a bit much.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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  23. #23  
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    drop the change and get an atlas II.

    I think you should get the 231 HD, i have that and I really like it, I get no vibes now after I threw on the Kevins crossmember.

    That Stak is sick too. A three speed case would be really nice and 5.44 to 1 would be awesome.
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  24. #24  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner Cody's Avatar
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    OK, first of all, don't swap your old input shaft into a new case. I did that, and because my old input shaft was worn a little bit, it caused major carnage in the case. blew up shift forks, and all sorts of fun stuff.

    If you really want to build a 231/242, just go to a local tranny part supply store (a reputable one) and have them order the correct input shaft for the t-case. George (fuck face) at TCU said he was the only person in the known universe that could get a 231 input shaft in the correct lenght for my application--and he wanted 250 bones. 20 minutes and 110 dollars later I had it in my hand. Point being, you'd be surprised what the guys at a good drivetrain shop know and can do.

    All that being said, get an atlas. You're going to be into a 231/242 nearly 1000 if you have someone else build it (maybe 500 if you build it yourself--but it's sorta one of those things you ought to know something about before you start tossing shit together). Thats great and all, but realistically you can get an atlas ready to bolt into your WJ for 1600-1700. You'll NEVER worry about breaking it, you'll NEVER worry that you should have spent a little bit more to do it right (like Mike Lib as he destroyed output shaft after output shaft on his super sweet 242), and you'll NEVER get tired of showing off your twin stickies to all the sucka's that don't have em!

    Cody
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  25. #25  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner JohnBoulderCO's Avatar
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    Good point about the output shaft. Yeah, I'm sure mine is not in cherry shape.

    I though Mike Lib kept breaking his 242 output shaft because it was custom machined for a SYE or somthing like that and it wasn't a 32 spline output. Been while...so I might be wrong about the details, but I do know it was machined for something.

    Yeah a Stak or Atlas would be nice, but for the extra coin I'm leaning toward the NP231HD.

    Gonna make some more calls today.

    Thanks for all the suggestions.

    Cody, is your secret really the twin sticks? Is that what gets the girls to hop in your rig? If so, maybe I should get the Atlas.
    WJ, 4.7, Clayton's Front, Double Triangulated Rear, 231HD, HP44, 8.8, ARBs, TR Bumpers, Hydro Assist, 35's, Cage
    Lambo Doors - tweaked unibody
    http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8532
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