The Jalapeno STILL Isn't Running, Updated 3/16/12

[FortCollinsZJ]

Yo Sean, the fire looks to have stopped about a mile from Moody, the trail was spared!!

If you need help with anything, I have the room, and I am seriously itching to work on something. Its just plain boring to have my jeep "done" early.

Wanna cut out your rockers and to boatsides?

[SuicideTireZJ]

Neil, that's awesome news about Moody!! I really want to boatside the bitch, the rockers are completely toast. Probably won't happen until after Moab though. Is your jeep "done" done? Wanna go wheeling Saturday?

UTC, I could use a little less backspacing or a little more lift, that's for sure.

[FortCollinsZJ]

I am working on a TJ's bumper tomorrow, not sure how long that'll take. Where do you want to wheel? All that's open is 7mile.

I know of a guy with access to Kelly Flats, I'll see if I can get a hold of him.

[SuicideTireZJ]

Yeah we gave up on wheeling today. I would like to have a shakedown run before Moab though, so I'll keep you updated.

[SuicideTireZJ]

Finally got to work on the bumper today. I can't lie, I wasn't really looking forward to it, mostly because I don't have a gas setup for my welder yet and flux core wire is a bitch. Not 100% happy with my welds, but they did show signs of improvement as the day progressed.

When I bought the bumper from Terraliner, who is no longer in business (small wonder), it was intended to be a prototype for an expanding range of Grand Cherokee products. They mounted it using the two holes my tow hooks were mounted to.



Either they didn't realize, or care, that those two holes were drilled, unsupported, through the sheet metal frame by a dumbass 17 year old kid (me) to hold those hooks in, and were really unfit for any heavy pulling or anything. To their credit, Terraliner tack welded a strip of ~1/8" plate inside the frame, most likely in an attempt to beef it up, but it was never near enough. Every time I would winch, the bumper would rotate downward and tear the bottom of the frame rail.




I started the mods by welding some 1/4" plate to the outside of the frame rail where I can eventually drill through, tack a nut on the inside and bolt through my KOR radiator support.



Then I realized I should probably get the mounting surface sorted out before I figure out where to drill the plates. I wanted to tie the bottom bolts holding the bumper in place to the radiator support as well, but the rad support doesn't come forward far enough. So I welded a few inches of 1/4" to the radiator support where it would come all the way to the front of the front crossmember and added a vertical gusset to where the clevis holes are on the support. This would prevent the bumper from tearing the frame again and rotating down. I'm not finished yet, but even with 2 bolts holding it in place, it's much more sturdy than when I pulled it off.




I'll attack it some more tomorrow.

[SuicideTireZJ]

Got a bunch of crap done over the last couple days and there's still 6 days left before the trip starts. First, I FINALLY met Neil (FortCollinsZJ), who sold me a stock gas tank skid to go with the t-case skid I picked up off of a member here a couple years ago. I had waited to put on the t-case skid because, since mine didn't come with one from the factory, there was nothing in the body to bolt it to, although there were holes there. Fixed that by drilling out the holes and welding in some flange nuts.

Just a couple stock skids, nothing too special except now I'm thinking I'm losing a disgusting amount of clearance under that t-case! So I don't know how long that thing will last until I rip it out and build something new. I'm starting to enjoy the hell out of fabbing...




Since the gas tank was now protected by the skid, I could move my hitch and improve my departure angle quite a bit. It's nothing special for now, but it's a decent starting point. Just some 2x3 sleeved into the unibody, bolted into the stock skid/hitch holes, with holes punched through for the hitch to slide into. I'll add some bolts to the outside of the framerail later when I do the same on the front.



Then I attacked something that's been driving me crazy for as long as I can remember: my liftgate. The area around the hatch has just been torn to shit. In reality, I should just go pull a new one from a junkyard (will one from a 97+ with the separate glass hatch fit on a 93?) but I'm broke and I figured I'd take a crack at it. Let's just say 0.035 flux core and sheet metal were not meant for each other.




It's fugly, but I did what I could and the difference in interior noise is incredible. We'll see how it holds up.

Finally, I got to work on the rear fenders, which were damn close to rubbing. Cut, pounded and welded the seams to maximum clearance without getting into the doors. It was a lot of work for ~.75" and I hope I don't have to do it again soon (might eventually go all the way around), but it turned out ok.



I'm having trouble thinking of things within my budget of, ummm... not much, that I can do before Moab. My list currently sits at:

1. Change fluid in axles, t-case (new differential gaskets too).
2. Finalize bumpstops front and rear, possibly steering stops too.
3. Additional bolts on front and rear bumper, paint rear bumper.
4. Buy and install shock bushings
5. Drill new hole in winch plate so it doesn't stick out so much
6. Purchase passenger side spare D35c axleshaft
6. Grab beer, help roommate finish his shit?

[jsteves]

My old man might have some 35 shafts laying around he would let go cheap. I will check.

[biggoofy]

I have a d35 passenger side disk shaft I will sell ya $15 plus shipping I also have a driver side drum ill throw in for $10 more.

[jsteves]

Also have an 8.8. it has drums, 3.73 and LSD. not the most desirable but $50 and it is yours.

[SuicideTireZJ]

JSteves- Is it Justin? It's been a while. How'd it go on those shafts? I already have a drivers side I pulled out of a junkyard, but found out they're unequal lengths. I might also take you up on that 8.8 but I'm newly unemployed since the ski season has ended, and I gotta save my pennies until a new job comes my way.

Biggoofy- if I can't find one locally, I'll let you know.

[biggoofy]

I would just do the 8.8 man it would be a great upgrade.

[FortCollinsZJ]

Sean, What do you think of this tube work?

[jsteves]

Yep, Justin. I have not checked on the shafts yet...don't know where the old man is at. If you want the 8.8 come get it and pay me when you have a job and a few bucks.

[SuicideTireZJ]

Goofy- Just re-read your post and a disc 35 shaft won't work, it'll have to be drum. Thanks though!

Justin, not sure I'll be able to do an axle swap in 3 days, but I'll talk to my buddy and maybe we can make it happen. Might hold off until I get a job though, I'll let you know.

Neil, that's pretty much what I was thinking but while flexing out the rear today I'm sort of convinced I need to "comp cut" my rear like you did yours because the tire rubs a bit. I played around with sketchup to show what I want to do but I'm still learning, I'll play around with it a bit more tonight. Essentially, the upper tube would stay where it is and get welded under the rear quarter panel, and the bottom tube would run the length of the hitch and be bent to run directly underneath the upper one.

Gotta get a job so I can afford some tube first.

[jsteves]

Sean, I have both D35c drum brake shafts in my garage now. Which ever you need for $25 or $40 for both.

[SuicideTireZJ]

Justin, you have a PM.

As soon as I get a job, I'll attempt the 8.8 swap but I think I'm going to hold out until I find a disc brake axle with an open carrier. I have a feeling I'm going to want to regear pretty soon too... 3.73's are pretty rough with 35's, even with a V8.

[SuicideTireZJ]

Got back from my Moab trip a couple days ago. As per my tradition, there was a lot of beer, and a lot of 5-hour energy. And a lot of driving at 4AM.

Jeep was an unquestionable success! The highlights: not having to use my spare axleshafts, going 92 miles an hour on 35's, my buddy driving the exit of Upper Heldorado, watching my other buddy get swamped crossing the Dolores River, completing Kane Creek (that killed my transmission/t-case last time I tried), spraypainting my roommate's Sammi purple, and of course, not breaking anything.

The lowlights: The weather sucked (lows in the high 20s one night, and even a bit of snow), and cutting my brand new tires up due to not trimming the fenders enough. Oh and not being out there long enough.

A few pictures:














A video from Top Of The World, if you're interested in getting vertigo:

[FortCollinsZJ]

Looks like you had a fun trip! Jealous.

You done anything lately? Cut out the fenders to save the tires I hope?

I'm itching to get out again, its been too long since I wheeled. I'm gonna try to plan something before December.

[downtowncb]

I normally don't care for hummers, but that thing is freakin SICK!

[SuicideTireZJ]

I forget what that Hummer thing is, but I know it's a custom job that shares pretty much nothing besides maybe the windshield with the Hummer. It was in Petersons a couple years back, but it's pretty sick.

Neil, sorry, I don't update this thread, or even check it much unless I'm wrenching. I have been wheeling plenty lately, at least once a month since wrapping up this portion of the build, and driving it to work some too, even drove the thing all the way out to Lake McConoughey, NE to wheel on the beach there. The tires have been good to me, but the gearing is making itself a priority... 3.73's are just too high for 35's, even with a V8. I was getting ready to swap gears and do a rear axle swap at the same time, but unfortunately it's stopped running and I need to address that first. When I get it running again, you should come take a run with us Neil!

It happened last weekend while out wheeling. Through the day, the idle became rougher and eventually the motor would stall when I would come to a stop. At first I thought it was just the deep snow we were in confusing the torque converter or something, but it got progressively worse, and took longer to re-start after it would stall. When we finally got back to the trailhead, I shut it down while everyone aired back up, but when I started it back up, some of the members in our group noticed flames shooting out of the exhaust. Before noticing this, we had assumed it was a vacuum leak, water in the distributor, or maybe bad gas/water in the fuel, the latter being likely as the jeep was on empty before I filled it up that morning. The exhaust flames and it sounding like a drag car with a hot cam indicated the timing was off. It stalled several (maybe 10x) more times on the hour or so drive back home, but at least it didn't strand me on the side of the road (in a blizzard, at night, in the mountains...)
-Could the timing chain have jumped a tooth all of a sudden? Maybe, but like I said, it seemed to get progressive through the day.
-I did a full cap, rotor, plugs, wires and seafoam tuneup in April, so that should be solid (and wouldn't explain the flames anyway).
-The engine isn't throwing any codes (or didn't when it was running, won't start now), so I don't think it's fuel management related.

-Only thing I can think of is that the Camshaft Position Sensor is failing, so barring any input from you guys, that's probably where I'll start. Is the Camshaft sensor different from the Crankshaft positions sensor? I think it is. Hopefully it's not a tough fix (and hopefully it works, not looking forward to replacing a timing chain if that's what it ends up being).

[1ABrian]

Doesn't appear to be a Hummer chassis in that pic. Body sure, chassis not so much

[AgitatedPancake]

Were you pushin your truck HARD in the snow? Give your catalytic convertor a tap and see if it still sounds solid. Earlier this year one of my buddies pushed his 4runner so hard in the snow holding WOT he ended up blowing the cat out the back of the tailpipe, if that were to happen and piss off your O2 sensors I could see funky things happening. The fact that raw fuel is getting through the cat is another thing that made me wonder.

Other then that, pull a few plugs and see if it looks like shes running alright.

No check engine light?

[SuicideTireZJ]

No CEL and no O2 sensors downstream of the cat, which was replaced a couple years back. Wasn't flogging on it, probably never exceeded 3500 RPM. Smells rich, but that's obvious. I'll have to check some plugs and see what's going on in there.

I did notice some plug wires were kinda loose on the distributor cap, but pressing them back down onto the terminals didn't help. Then again, it was like 15 degrees so what do I know.

[SuicideTireZJ]

Alright! I survived moost of ski season so and sold my DD so it's time to put some thought back into the heep. Until I get it running, I'm commuting on my bicycle. That's fine, but riding at 2AM across town gets old. Anyway, I put in a new battery and started cranking it to see what would happen. Yesterday, it would just crank and crank and crank. Today, I added a pint of Seafoam and it would crank and crank and then sputter, but never catch enough to run on its own. Ok, so the gas is winter blend that's been sitting for 3 months, that makes sense. I took my coil into autozone to have it tested since I don't have a multimeter, and it's within spec. I haven't been able to pull a plug and verify spark like I wanted since I've been working on it solo, but I'll make sure that's not my issue tomorrow. I did find that I'm throwing a CEL and have a bluetooth OBDII dongle that I'll check the code with tomorrow. Hopefully it's CPS like it seems to be with everyone else, as I bought one today. If not, I've got a new dizzy on order.

While at AZ, we tried finding a camshaft position sensor in the computer, but it didn't come up as being equipped on a V8 in 1993. For some reason I remember it being part of the distributor, is this correct? I gotta dig up my chiltons.

[ajmorell]

If the cam sensor is set up like it is in the 4.0 then yeah its under the rotor on the dizzy

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