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05-27-2005, 07:39 PM
This is currently how the ZJ sits...
^ Thats my brothers bronco on 39.5x15.5 Mickeys and 9 inches of lift, the thing is a true piece of shit. and sorry but i dont have any great wheelin shots.
Present state of ZJ:
- 4.0L inline 6 engine
- K&N air filter
- Rear XJ Dana 44, custom built for ZJ
- Yukon Gear 4.56 gears, complete install kit installed and carrier
- Detroit E-Z Locker
- all around new bearings and seals
- all new drum brakes
- Front ZJ Dana 30
- Precision Gear 4.56 gears, complete install kit and carrier
- all new bearings and seals
- all new brake pads
- Rock Krawler 7 Long Arm Kit
- Triangulated 4-link rear upgrade
- 2 Teraflex coil spacers
- JKS Shock conversions
- custom length Pro Comp ES 3000 shocks
- Steering
- Poison Spyder Customs heavy duty steering
- Old Man Emu steering Stabilizer
- NP 242 T-Case
- Tom Woods S.Y.E. Kit
- Tom Woods Custom C.V. Drive Shaft w/ Gold Seal U-Joints
- Recovery
- Kevins Jeep Parts radiator support and tow hooks
- Reese Class IV tow package and shackles
- Wheels and Tires
- 36x12.5x15 Interco Super Swamper Radials
- 15x10x4.5 bs Black Steel rims
Plans for the build over the summer:
- Ford 3/4 ton Full Width Dana 44 front axle
- 4.88 gears, with install kit
- Full Carrier Detroit Locker
- Warn Manual Locking Hubs
- Ford 3/4 Ton Full Width Full Floating Dana 60 rear axle
- 4.88 gears, with install kit
- Full Carrier Detroit Locker
- Disk Brake Conversion
- Custom subframe incorporating existing control arm mounts
- Cross member/ transmission, t-case skid plate : tied into subframe
- custom rock rails tied into subframe
- Tom Woods Custom Front and Rear Drive Shafts
- Custom 1 ton Steering
The reason I am doing this build is because I wanna run larger tires and have full width axles as well as a more capable rig because i will finally have it down at school with me at the University of tennessee and am only an hour from many offroading areas like Tellico, Windrock, Crackers Neck and a few more.
The current axles under the ZJ...
xj dana 44
Dana 30 that exploded... notice no axle shaft or drive shaft
So now the build process begins.
Here is the Ford F250 Dana 60
I plan to pick the front dana 44 up sometime within the week. I'll keep posting as things start to come together.
no offence but that frnt axle is not really that much stronger then your current 30.
and the f250 front is its the high pinion is RARE and expensive. i found one for a smokin deal because the guy had no idea what he was selling. but all in all i woudl wait and look for a frnt 60. my two cents.
and i wouldn't run a full size axle on Rock Krawler suspension. unless you beef up the frame mounts. and change out the rod ends. what gen is your kit?
nice looking ZJ but full width axles on an un modified RK setup is more then scary.
first off the dana 44 is hp and i got it for 320$. second im working 14 hour days 5 days a week this summer to pay for all this and a dana 60 still does not fit into my budget because of all the $ going into other things in the build plus i have to save $ for college. i probably will build new front arms (but im unsure right now) and the subframe takes care of the mounts on the body. i plan to run my 36s until they r done because i have no $ for tires but plan to run 37x14 iroks next so i think the d44 can handle this.
do you have a subframe? a non rock krawler one??
i wouldn't say the arms are the weekest link. the mounts to the frame are notoriouse for ripping off with stock axle. add the weight of the full size ones.......hmm.
300 is a good deal for that axle its the same one i'm running. i'm not being a dick. i knwo what its liek to get stoked on a project and get tunnel vision thinking what you got is the only way to go. don't make me pull out of old pics.
monstrosety of a ford 9" shitty front LA's shitty first d70, squar cage, then weird cage. not its fdone right but it was only from peopel showing me the other side of things.
hmm maybe i'l start a thread abotu all the shitty stuff i'v built.
did you feel comfortable with the 36's and 4.56? and the D44 rear?
i ask b/c im running an XJ D44 and a hp30 with alloys, 4.56, both locked... and my next tires were going to be 35x12.50's but i was also thinking about those 36" Iroks (those were iroks weren't they?)
didn't you blow up that D30 like over 6 months ago?
yeah over my winter break but i just got hiome from school and havent got to touch it since then so thats y thats still broken. the 4.56s pushed the 36s perfectly and i felt fine with the d44 rear because i have a very heavy foot and never hjad a problem with it but i guess thats y the d30 blew. also im building a subframe for it.
if your buiulding a sub frame for it i woudl feel ALOT more comfortable. now just get rid of those crawler joints and your stylin.
I got the front dana 44 today. its out of a 78 ford f250 and its hp.
needs some work like hubs new brakes and a cleaning and then itll be ready for gears and the detroit.
you shoudl take pics with the dif right side up so we don't think your a idiot and bought a chevy fron
ha well thats the way i put it on the cart and the thing is too heavy to relocate for a picture
Lookin good, Sounds like you've got a plan too...
Got two qusetions for you:
1) What did you break on the LP 30? You were running 36's right?
2) How did the 15x10's work out with stock width axles? I've always heard that 15x8 was the widest you should go on a ZJ, so I was just wondering. were you able to stuff them pretty well? Did it mess up your turning radius much?
Thanks
well the carrier and the spider gears expolded inside the d30. i had wheeled it for over a year on the 36s and never had a problem, but then i went camping in pennsylvannia in -0 degree weather and hit a mud pit right before ending the wheeling that day and parked it. the next day when i started it up and put it into drive it didnt budge so i put it in 4lo and the rear tires spun but the front did nothing so i thought it was the tcase. i gave it another try and this time heard a loud boom and my friends saw my front drive shaft spinning but not my tires. basically my brakes had axle shafts had locked up so badly they broke the carrtier and spider gears.
the 15x10 rims never bothered me at all i could easily flex the suspension out without rubbing, but had to trim a little and didnt mess up my steering
Dude.... I blew my first Krawler Joint this weekend. First, and this is after over a year of pretty hard wheeling and breaking damn near everything else. Those joints are not anything like the reputation they have. I do agree with the subframe thing, I've not managed to rip mine off, but I do keep a close look. I'm going to run 38's, so we'll see. Oh, I will say this though, I would get rid of that bull shit dealy that goes around the pumkin on your 44. I'v got that on my 8.8 and those stupid U-bolts won't stay in play. This weekend at crackers neck I noticed when loading it back up on the trailer that it had popped my top two dif cover bolts. I knew it was coming.Originally Posted by Kraqa
Originally Posted by Cody
1st gen Claytons (all rubber) lasted 3 years of DD and hard wheeling....
Same here. And I'm still running the origional Johny joints. Just took them apart to grease them up.
As far as the Krawler joints go, why should they blow? They shouldn't, period. Things wear out over time, but you're trying to justify it breaking after a year of hard wheeling? Not good enough, not safe.
whatever. One joint in a year is nothing.
edit: not to mention it took 8 beers and a shit load of go juice and what sounded like plane crash to do it. I wheel as hard if not harder than 95% of anyone on here. Why act like I have no clue what I'm talking about? Some people need to get off their high horse occasionally.
Originally Posted by Cody
i don't want to seam liek i'm on a high horse. i want to offer an opinion beofre he runs out and builds something that he's gon awant to change leter. if it cost 50$ to fdo it now it will cost him 150 to redo it next time, the right way. think about it. if he make all his brakets for those crummy craler joints (assuming they are not the same width as JJ) and blows them repeatedly then trys to go to JJ later how much mroe fab work he'll have to do.
sorry abotu the spellign i'm at work tryign to blast this out with out gettin caught.
ok so everyone quits bitching about the krawler joints please check out rock krawlers website and please tell me the new joints aren't strong.
www.rockkrawler.com
quit bitching and let me post my build up here and not people fighting over their opinion of something like a krawler joint
you do realize that the people "bitching" are the ones who have built/run this stuff for years and are trying to help you with your build. We have broke stuff torn things off and welded them back on with coat hangers and car batteries.
were nto here to make your build up hell. were here to prevent you form wasting your time. how much are these joints? have you had any experience with them? i will bet you that there price is comparable with Johny Joints ( a far superior joint that has stood up time after time for years) why experiment with joints no one knows abotu and chance a possible failure. i have never herd of a johny joint failing. i'v seen people jump full size chevy's with them.
do what you want. i'm nto going to offer any more advise if you continually choose to throw it away.
It's time to bust out with the ban stick yo......
Originally Posted by Krash80
No high horse involved, only experience and knowledge. But considering this is his build thread, I'm man enough to keep my opinions to myself and respect his wishes to keep this about his build. Start another thread if ya want to discuss krawler joings (and why they suck
im not saying i dont want help on the build and opinions but when we get stuck on something for so long it gets old
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