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Originally Posted by Kraqa
When it stops raining I will. If anybody needs pics of anything while the motor is out for reference or whatever let me know. Maybe we can squeeze some tech out of this thread
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
As far as I can tell it's rebuildable and the block and cylinders are all in good shape. I'm still thinking of going the salvaged route, however. I'm not engine rebuilder... although I guess I could try.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
You should stroke it then. Stroking it is pretty much the same as rebuilding it, except you put in a bigger crank/rods. With a FSM its all pretty simple, just a matter of turning some bolts. You'll have more power and a brand new engine at the same time. If you do rebuild you should at the very least make sure you rebore and get a good crosshatch hone on it.
As far as I can tell it's rebuildable and the block and cylinders are all in good shape. I'm still thinking of going the salvaged route, however. I'm not engine rebuilder... although I guess I could try.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Stroking it would be way overkill. I don't need much more than 250/300 anyway.. it's really trail only from this point on. I don't want to go to that much expense or trouble really. I need something to drive and wheel soon.. I'm itching to go wheeling
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
I'm thinking about putting a mild cam in it, but that's about all. I looked for headers but they're all really expensive.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
Alright.. well.. the engine is in the Jeep, the tranmission is bolted up. So now it's just a matter of buttoning everything up. I had to get some friends to come over to wiggle, pry, and adjust the engine/tranny on the jacks to get it to bolt up, and I might have fucked up the CPS during the installation, but other than that all I have to do is just connect some wires and hope it fires! The only ones I'm concerned about really are the injector connectors. I'm hoping they're all labeled so I know which goes to where. I should be up and running soon!
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
Just a friendly reminder:
Make sure you adjust the TV cable properly before you drive, otherwise you'll fry the clutches in your tranny.
Just a friendly reminder:
Make sure you adjust the TV cable properly before you drive, otherwise you'll fry the clutches in your tranny.
Hmm.. I can't just hook it right back up? Why would the setting have changed? Any other important (not totally obvious suggestions) before I crank this byotch up?
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
I'm not sure how the setting would have changed, only advising that you check it. I just know that if it's wrong, bad things happen.Just a friendly reminder:
Make sure you adjust the TV cable properly before you drive, otherwise you'll fry the clutches in your tranny.
Hmm.. I can't just hook it right back up? Why would the setting have changed? Any other important (not totally obvious suggestions) before I crank this byotch up?
What did you do, rebuild, or buy a used engine? There are two different routes.
If you rebuilt it, and the piston rings are new and all that jazz... you have to go through a process to make sure the rings set right, as well as change the oil in steps starting at 20 minutes idling all the way up to 2,000 miles.. if you're using new pistons/rings/bearings/bore, let me know and i'll explain further.
If you're using a used engine, I reccomend changing the main bearings (even though now that its installed it would be smart). If not you should atleast give it a new igniton setup. Make sure that the torque converter/flex plate bolts are in there good and tight too, you don't want one of those coming off and screwing up your tranny.
Otherwise enjoy
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
dude, i really hope you have rebuilt an engine or something
cause this is the type of shit i left JU for, a buch of turds giving out info on stuff they have never even worked on before
You should stroke it then. Stroking it is pretty much the same as rebuilding it, except you put in a bigger crank/rods. With a FSM its all pretty simple, just a matter of turning some bolts. You'll have more power and a brand new engine at the same time. If you do rebuild you should at the very least make sure you rebore and get a good crosshatch hone on it.
As far as I can tell it's rebuildable and the block and cylinders are all in good shape. I'm still thinking of going the salvaged route, however. I'm not engine rebuilder... although I guess I could try.
Come take a look in my garagedude, i really hope you have rebuilt an engine or something
cause this is the type of shit i left JU for, a buch of turds giving out info on stuff they have never even worked on before
You should stroke it then. Stroking it is pretty much the same as rebuilding it, except you put in a bigger crank/rods. With a FSM its all pretty simple, just a matter of turning some bolts. You'll have more power and a brand new engine at the same time. If you do rebuild you should at the very least make sure you rebore and get a good crosshatch hone on it.
As far as I can tell it's rebuildable and the block and cylinders are all in good shape. I'm still thinking of going the salvaged route, however. I'm not engine rebuilder... although I guess I could try.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
just get a torquey cam for the new 318 and you will be happy.
5.9 is overrated.
I bought a salvaged motor. It has a new water pump, cap/rotor/wires/plugs, radiator hoses, thermostat, CPS, new rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil pump, etc. Basically anything I thought would be a bitch to change out while the engine was in the Jeep I replaced. Didn't get a cam or any performrance upgrades, however. I still think it will run much better than the previous motor, though.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
we'll find out soon enough
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
we'll find out soon enough
Werd up. I've just gotta figure out where all these damn wires go
If I work diligently tonight I might even be able to fire her up and be running for tomorrow.. although I still need to weld the exhaust back up...
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
The good thing is the wires were cut to the perfect length to go where they belong, and in most cases the plugs only fit in where they're supposed to go. If you look closely, the wires should even still be bent the same way they have been for the past 10 years (give or take). That combination makes things easy to figure out. Good luck, wear a diaper.. its always a tough moment the first time you turn the key over.
Also, I don't know how much engine work you've done so you may or may not have already done this.. but charge that battery up, it may have died a little while not being used.. it'll scare you the first time you try to start it and it won't go. Happened to me last year. A jump from my mom's mini-van and I was good to go
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
So far things are going smootly, but I'm curious about the injectors. They've each got their own plug, but none of the plugs are unique. Some say "B2" others say "B4" and so on. But the way my wiring harness is oriented doesn't seem to be correct if "B2" means that it's the injector to cylinder number 2. Perhaps I've got my wiring harness flipped around or something. I *think* it's supposed to mount to the back of the firewall just above the distributor on some sort of plastic rail or something, but it's difficult to tell because we didn't necessarily route the wires properly as we were installing the engine. I took some pics, but none of the rear of the firewall, and I didn't notice how the injector connectors came off unfortunately. A little help anybody?
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
the electrical connections on my injectors are marked "inj1" "inj2...6" so maybe B1 is referring to cylinder 1.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
That's what i'm thinking. But the way I have the harness oriented now (which seems correct) doesn't match up. The odd numbered connectors are on the even side and vice versa. Hmm.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
Well, I connected the injectors. I guess the numbering on the inside of the connector doesn't mean anything, at least that's what I'm hoping because none of them matched the particular cylinder. I labeled the heat shields next to each plug which cylinder was which and connected according. I've still got a few "mystery connectors" that I can't figure out where to plug though
I'll put in a few more hours tomorrow when I've had a bit more rest. This new work schedule makes me feel like a grandpa... early to bed, early to rise.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
maybe the dude who assembled it fawked up, which wouldn't surprise me. If you don't have it running tomorrow i'll see if I can run out to the junkyard to take a look at a 5.2, I know there are a few. Anything you want me to take a picture of?
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
I'm still wondering where the wire and connector for my TPS is at... I've got several connectors but none seem to fit the TPS...
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
I figured out why I was having issues. Apparently sometime between 96 and 98 DC decided that they wanted to change their connectors. There's one sensor on the front of the throttle body that I had to change. The 96 uses shorter mounting bolts but the sensor is essentially the same. Also, in 98 apparently the coil changed. The 96 connector does not connect. Now I'm just left with ONE fucking wire on the right hand side of the harness and I don't know what the connector goes to!
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
Well, I found the mystery connector in my Haynes manual.. guess they are good for something. It goes to the distributor (camshaft position sensor in distributor) but the connectors don't match. I *do not* want to have to pull off the distributor and deal with Summit if I can avoid it. I wonder if I can just solder the appropriate wires...
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
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