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I can't wait to do this... I'm drooling.
you wont be drooling for long once you see the amount of wires in the wiring harness.
i'm just hopeing i can figureit out in the end.
anyone knwo the best way to remove the airbag system?
Drivers side is easy, you can just remove the bag out of th esteering wheel. I"ve had it out (When checking for problems with the clock spring).Originally Posted by Kraqa
Never messed with the drivers side though. Keep those intact, they're like $400 new, I'm sure you can sell them.
Hopefully Timzjatl will see this and chime in... I know he spent a ton of time going through all those wires this summer for his buggy project and figuring out what was neccessary... if i recall correctly, he had it down to under 8 when all was said and done.
nah... I've been trying to sell my airbags and nobody's taken a bite
your ZJ is still too "pretty" to buggy. but if you do, I got dibs on ur rear bumper.
hey puma if Eddy desn't take mine your next in line.
Did you just cut the bottom off the A and B pillars?
yup. if the unibody was intact i would never do that with out supporting it like i did before but now i think i have more then enough support
Hopefully Timzjatl will see this and chime in... I know he spent a ton of time going through all those wires this summer for his buggy project and figuring out what was neccessary... if i recall correctly, he had it down to under 8 when all was said and done.
Talking to Tim last year at GSSE his method IIRC was cut one wire at a time and if the Jeep didn't run, reconnect it and go on to the next one. ***This may be an abreviated version of his actual method, it's just what I remember.
Haha, I think that's about what he did. Probably the easiest way rather than trying to decipher Chrysler's wiring logic.
Alright,
well it is official i'm out of gas for the welder hopfully the local welding shop will deliver a new bottle tomorrow. but heres how far i got tonight on the rear bumper.
i will be tieing this into the shock x-mem and then the shock x-mem intto the frame so dont bitch abotu how this will but be strong enough.
since none of you bastards bought my rear hitch i was forced to chop it up and use it for the receiver on this bumper. I guess it all worked out in the end.
oh and yes i know it isn't welded to the frame yet. the bumper is just placed there for right now. hence the i ran out of gas statment.
well its all welded in now
and cross braced, thats 2x2.125 wall HSS welded to the hitch going straight back and 1" SCH40 cross braces
looks great except for the nice crust of rust but i think it is time for a long deserved break
i'm going to bead blast the whoel truck whhen its done.
well, i got some work done today even tho i went to Micheal White and the Whites last night (its a Zepplin tribute band that fucking ROCKS). Hung over welding is the best.
here is the passenger side rocker in place and fully welded
Another angle
This is the final roof cut the main hoop out of the squar tubing will be fully seam welded to it so that i dont have any leaks
Then i got motivated to do the shocks. I'v wanted Triangulated rear shocks ever since i found out how they worked. I got soem cheep very stiff shocks and having them mounted Vertical the rear was Very stiff. now this shoudl sofen it up a bit and allow for some MAD flex if i chose to use all of it.
This is a 5/8" bolt weled to the axle
Then both shocks in
You can see all the whole i did so that i can adjust the rear shocks once i get this this rolling and test out how uit feels.
Another.
You can see the coiled air line i'm using for a rear dif breather. at rest is is 6" long and full streatch it is 12' so this should be nice with a really flexy rear end i wont have a bunch of breather hoze all over the place.
and then this is just a cool pic
and yes the other end of that air line is not connected to anything yet. it will run to the top of my main hoop where all the vehicles breathers will run and then i will cap it with a air filter.
Bitchin (and interesting)
I question the welded bolt to the axle, but whatever you gotta do. Did you not have the 4 bucks for shock tabs?
It's cool to see the different directions people have gone with ZJ buggies.
Cody
i'm not that confident in this welded bolt but i can't put my shock on top of the axle right yet so this will have to do for now. if i break it. its not the first time i'v had to drive home with no rear shocks. is really quite fun.
More Progress.....
with the roof cut on the weekend i started on the hoop.
but soon found out i ran out of HSS so this is as far as i got.
With nothign better to do i prepped the floor boards. this is there final configuration, the only acception is the holes i have to cut for the UCA braces.
this is the tank roughly in place. got JUST the right amount of room to clear where i'm mounting the spare tire.
you can see where the filler neck will go. i'm having a tube for my cage connect to the main hoop and run to the rear bumper. The filer will be mounted to that. i coulcn't be happier as to how the stock hose is bent. the angle and distance are VERY close to stock.
Well i'm finally saying good bye to coils....and in good MC/POR fasion.
and i'm going 1/4 ellip. This is all the parts i will need except shackles and the pillow block mounting pad's
most people use a heim joint at the shackle end to help with the binding as it flexs. Thats because they hard mount there leafs at the frame. i'm going to mount my leafs to the pillow block and allow then to hinge on down travel.
the pillow block will hard mount to the frame. (i need to make the bracket first. but this is the rough placment.
and the best part is the fact that i can have a tru progressive spring rate and i can adjust the ride hieght at any time. this is what i have to play with if i find that the springs are to soft.
this is an awesome build. keep up the work!
what application are those pillow blocks from?
So after all of that work with the rear springs and fabricating the mounts, your going nwith LEAFS?
blah!
Thoas pillow blocks were 5$ and they are for a standard application nothing special got them from the local farm supply store. i'm going to carry two spares incase one breaks they are suple to change and the price is right.
yes the leafs were 20$ then pillow blocks were a total of 10$
and having somehting that i can completly customize the spring rate and ride hight at my demand for 30$ is far better then going out and finding coils that woudl work.
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