ZJ 231 Swap

[BigDaveZJ]

ZJ 249-231 Swap FAQ Write-Up

So you’re sick of that POS 249 and want a real t-case? Here’s how to do it. First, I’ll run through some of the reasons why people swap in a 231.


Low-Lock
The 93-95 249’s still rely on the viscous coupler to transfer power while in 4Lo. This presents a major problem off road as the front and rear driveshafts are NOT locked together. This issue is most apparent when attempting to climb a steep obstacle. With the weight off of the front tires, a majority of the power is sent to the front because they are easier to turn, but with no weight on the tires, you get no traction up front!

Viscous Coupler Failures
The Viscous Coupler in all 249’s is prone to failing around the 75,000 mile mark. An easy test for the VC is to do several figure 8 maneuvers in a parking lot after driving the Jeep for 30 minutes or so at highway speeds. If the vehicle can idle through the maneuver, chances are the VC is okay. If it binds or needs additional power, your VC is likely on its way out. A VC from the stealership will run you about $800, so it is usually MUCH cheaper to swap in a 231 or 242.

SYE
At extreme lift heights, the rear driveshaft can cause vibrations. Currently there is no slip-yoke eliminator for the 249, and probably will never be one. An SYE creates a fixed rear output shaft on the t-case, much like the front output. This strengthens the rear output, as well as lengthens the rear driveshaft, lessening the angles on the joints, which can usually eliminate the vibrations.


Now, onto the swap itself.

Where to get your 231:
Most 231’s will work, but may not necessarily bolt in. Ideally you will find one with a 23 spline input shaft that matches the length of your current input shaft. There’s no for sure way that I know of to determine the length of your input shaft without pulling the t-case and measuring it. You can find 231’s in YJ’s, XJ’s, and TJ’s, but they are pretty rare to come stock in ZJ’s. On the YJ’s, they use a different front output yoke that will not work with your driveshaft. You can find the proper output yoke at most tranny shops.
Try to get a t-case out of a vehicle the same year as yours, or at least close to it.

So now I have my 231, what do I do with it?
Start by taking out your old 249. I find it easiest to drive the ZJ up onto 4 ramps when doing t-case work, or putting it on a lift. Be sure you are in 4WD if you pull up onto the plastic ramps though. It’s very hard to push the front tires up onto the ramps and you don’t want to shoot the ramps out from under the rear tires. Don’t ask how I know this!

It helps to have some people helping, as the t-case is pretty heavy and not fun to maneuver by yourself. So raise the vehicle and secure it in place with the e-brake (putting it in park will obviously not work as you are removing the drivetrain!) and other methods if you so desire.

- remove front and rear driveshafts (fluid will probably leak out the rear output when your pull the rear shaft, so you may want a drip pan)

- place a jack under the tranny pan using a block of wood or some other method to keep from damaging the pan.

- Disconnect all hoses, linkage, and other fittings on the t-case

- Drain the fluid of the 249 (30mm socket or wrench to open drain plug)

- Remove the 4 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame rails (be sure your jack is holding up the tranny and t-case or things will get very bad VERY quickly)

- SLOWLY lower the jack under the tranny pan until you can access all 6 nuts holding the t-case to the tranny. These should be 9/16” or their metric equivalent. They are a MAJOR PITA to get to, so be patient. Leave a couple bolts on the mounting studs to hold the t-case on until you’re ready to yank it. Raise the jack back up once you have the upper bolts removed

- Using a tranny jack or pure muscle, now remove the t-case from the tranny. You will need to slide the t-case back, and then it will come down. Tranny fluid will probably leak out a little bit, so again a drip pan is a good idea.

NOTE – on some models the tranny mount may be in the way of some of the nuts holding the t-case on. In this instance, remove the crossmember from the tranny and set it aside.


So now you have the 249 out of the vehicle, how do I get all this stuff back together??

Now that the case is out of the vehicle, you can examine the input gears to make sure they are the same length. If they’re different, don’t fret too much. This is where a Factory Service Manual is worth its weight in gold. You’ll need to tear down both cases and take the input gear from your 249 and put it in the 231. It will work, assuming that the gear cut is the same. There was a change in gear cuts around 94-95, and the gear cut MUST match what the case originally had in it, or again, very bad things will happen very quickly. The difference in gear cuts is easily identifiable simply by looking at the two input gears. If the cut of the gears looks different at all, time to look for a new input gear. I’d avoid the dealer, as you’ll pay more for the input gear than you probably paid for the whole t-case. I found one at the same tranny shop that had the correct output yoke. It ran about $150, which still isn’t cheap, but it’s half of what the dealer wanted.

Personally, I would rip down the 231 regardless if I was swapping input gears. It’s a good idea to do a full rebuild on it, or at least clean it out and get an idea as to what goes on inside of the t-case. Once again, the FSM is a great tool to have for this.

One other step that I would take before putting everything back in is getting the proper shift linkage for the 231. The tab that bolts to the outside of the case is probably going to need to be changed. It’s a cheap part, dealer only. Order the part for a 93 ZJ with a 231, you’ll need a case ID# too. The one I used that I found on here is 5209 8319. Simply unbolt the old tab, and put the new one on. Your factory linkage may need to be lengthened or shortened, but with this tab the linkage will work without any major modifications.

So now you’re 231 is ready to be installed!

Simply reverse the steps you took to remove the 249 and you’re good to go! Don’t forget to put new fluid in your 231 if you haven’t done so already.


Double and triple check everything to make sure you’ve got it all tightened up and ready to go before driving the vehicle. Don’t go right out onto the highway, tool around on side streets for a bit to make sure everything is working properly.

Here’s a brief summary of issues that I ran into with the swap, and how to solve some of them:

Input Gear
Needs to be a 23 spline, but the length is not known until the case is actually removed from the Jeep. You can make an educated guess as to what it will be, but there is no for sure way of knowing what it is. Usually you can swap the input shaft from the 249 into a 231, but there was a change in the gear cut right around 94 or 95. I got my case from a 90 YJ and needed to swap input shafts. The one from my 249 (1995) was the wrong gear pitch, which would've seriously screwed up the t-case. I had to purchase a new input gear to match the t-case and tranny. They are NOT cheap!! I paid more for that gear than I did for the whole case. The original 231 I put in has since been retired due to the front driveshaft coming apart and knocking a hole in the case, and the 231 I replaced it with already had the correct length shaft on it. So . . . I have two spare input gears for jeep t-cases. Both are the longest there is, one old gear cut, one new. If you do the swap and run into the same problem I did, and need a long input gear, let me know!!

Shift Linkage
More than likely will not work correctly. I can't remember the correct name for this part, but there is a tab on the outside of the case that the linkage hooks into. All you need to do to correct the linkage is get a new tab. It's hard to describe in words, but I'll see if I can find a pic of it for you.

Vehicle Information Center
I personally did not solve this "problem" as I know when I'm in what mode on the case. Apparently you can change the wiring up a bit and this will work, but I haven't messed with it at all.

Shifter Bezel
The "diagram" next to the t-case shifter will obviously still be for the 249. If you want to replace this a FEW early ZJ's with the 4.0 came with a 231 and you may still be able to order this part, or the bezel from XJ's might fit there too. Again, an "issue" I didn't deal with.

Front Output Yoke
Depending on what vehicle you source your 231 from, you may run into this problem. I got mine from a YJ and YJ's use a single u-joint at the t-case end of the front driveshaft, whereas ZJ's, XJ's, and TJ's all use a double cardan joint.



UPDATE

Dirty put together a great writeup on swapping input shafts. Check it out here: http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17376

[robselina]

good info. the VC in my 1995 249 is definitely freakin' shot, I had both rears of the ground, was hung up out back and the front was still planted...didn't spin the front tires :roll: freakin' lame.
Anyway:

"There was a change in gear cuts around 94-95, and the gear cut MUST match what the case originally had in it, or again, very bad things will happen very quickly"

anyway to find out from the case which gear cut I've got? If the gear cuts are different from my case to the 231 I buy, what are my options? I'm assuming I should stick to 1995 or newer 231s from what you're saying, but don't want to buy a boat anchor 231 that I can't use.....

[JpRngr]

There is not a way to tell what the pitch of the input gear is without pulling it apart. Although, if the t-case you get has the different bevel on the input gear, you can still get the correct length gear with the thread pitch you need from a tranny rebuilder. That's what Dave had to do when he did his. He may even still have some inputs laying around from his many t-case follies. :lol:

But, it is a lot easier, if you get the correct year t-case to start with.


Corey

[BigDaveZJ]

There is not a way to tell what the pitch of the input gear is without pulling it apart.

:?

Outside of 94 and 95 cases it's pretty easy, older has one, newer has the other. As for what your 95 has, I would say chances are it has the newer cut, but you're not 100% sure until you find out. You can't even tell the difference just by glancing at them it's so small, but it's a big enough difference where bad things can happen. I do have several input gears still kicking around too. I think there's 3? of them out in the garage not in use. Two long, one of each gear cut, and a medium older cut I THINK. Two of them will take some minor disassembly of the various t-case parts that are together, but it takes about 2 minutes to do that. Let me know if you need one. There's a guy from JU who might be getting one of them from me this weekend, not sure yet though.

[JpRngr]

Yah, yah, yah.... what i meant was that, provided you're not sure on year or you have one of the 94 or 95's, externally, there's no way to tell.


Corey

[gsh]

I say bullshit on no way to figure either the shaft length or the date for the gear cut change.

TCU and drivetrain.com can get you setup if you get the info from the ID tag. They have to have the right tables and you can be damn sure New Venture knows it too. I don't know if they'd tell or not. Haven't asked.

I was gonna try some research on both these issues and put together a reference guide. I don't have much together now, but maybe if there's enough interest and cooperation, I might.

That was supposed to be for my own benefit, but I can share. Swamp Boy delayed the inevitible by selling me a good used VC at a damn good price. Thanks again Swampy for stetching my build budget.

[BigDaveZJ]

I say bullshit on no way to figure either the shaft length or the date for the gear cut change.

People have been swapping other t-cases into ZJ's now for a few years and nobody has been able to figure out a sure-fire way to figure it out. Yes, you might be able to tell by the case ID #, but who until someone figures out what goes to what via the case ID # it's kinda worthless. I contacted George at TCU before I did mine and found him to be a pompous prick and refuse to send him any business.

[robselina]

okay, since dave locked my other tread i'll ask here ops:

23 spline 231s are available on all 4.0L rigs behind an AX-15. The AX-5 (behind a 2.5L) is either 21 or 23 spline. sounds like most are 21, but which are 23? I can't find shit about which AX-5s are 23 spline and which are 21 spline...anyone got any info? don't want to not look at 2.5L wranglers if they may have what I need......

[BigDaveZJ]

Just ask the dude selling it. I've never seen a shortage of 231's for sale. Or pull it and count it, not that hard.

[OverkillZJ]

okay, since dave locked my other tread i'll ask here ops:

23 spline 231s are available on all 4.0L rigs behind an AX-15. The AX-5 (behind a 2.5L) is either 21 or 23 spline. sounds like most are 21, but which are 23? I can't find shit about which AX-5s are 23 spline and which are 21 spline...anyone got any info? don't want to not look at 2.5L wranglers if they may have what I need......

Once again, the only sure-fire way to check input shaft spline and length is to pull the case.

ID tags = hit or miss. Usually a miss.

[robselina]

Just ask the dude selling it. I've never seen a shortage of 231's for sale. Or pull it and count it, not that hard.

fair enough. I just wanted to avoild pulling it if at all possible.

now I think about it though, a 21 spline input wouldn't really matter as long as it's a 95 or newer since I could just swap in my 23 spline input from the 249? right?

[Swamp boy]

Swamp Boy delayed the inevitible by selling me a good used VC at a damn good price. Thanks again Swampy for stetching my build budget.

Your welcome... Glad I could help...

ANd for the record.. I have Sun Gear from a 93 249 in a 98 231 case with 2002 231D sprockets and Chain... It is all working great together...
Maybe if noone tells them they wont know...


Kinda like a bumble bee...

[ATL ZJ]

Start by taking out your old 249. I find it easiest to drive the ZJ up onto 4 ramps when doing t-case work, or putting it on a lift. Be sure you are in 4WD if you pull up onto the plastic ramps though.

Umm, you kinda have no choice. Good writeup though.

[BigDaveZJ]

Start by taking out your old 249. I find it easiest to drive the ZJ up onto 4 ramps when doing t-case work, or putting it on a lift. Be sure you are in 4WD if you pull up onto the plastic ramps though.

Umm, you kinda have no choice. Good writeup though.

Ummm, whoops! I was guess I was thinking about when I blew up a front driveshaft that took out 231 #1 and tried getting it on ramps in 2WD. It was fun!

[robselina]

Okay, having some problems ordering the shifter bezel and tab. The parts guys don't know what the heck I'm talking about.



Is the tab #20 or #21? Other? Also, anyone got a part # for the shifter bezel, they're thinking it's #9, but that can't be right since it's bent and I need something flat......

[BigDaveZJ]

The tab I talked about isn't even in that diagram. The tab I was referring to is the one that the linkage hooks up to on the case itself. As for the bezel #9's about the only possibility really. If you order it and it's wrong, you'll know for sure and it won't cost ya nothin! I just go by where the lever is, pretty easy to figure it out.

[robselina]

Okay, found the shift cover part number its #5521.7369

Now as for the tab:



Is it #12 in this pic?

[robselina]

anybody? dave? this the right part?

I'm going to order it today if I don't hear otherwise.....

[BigDaveZJ]

That's the tab you need to order. Use a ZJ 231 case ID#, like the one in my original write-up, and order that part for that case.

[robselina]

thanks dave. ordering now....

[robselina]

just stumbled across this and thought it might be of interest to people doing this swap:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/231_input_gears.htm

[robselina]

Okay, did the 231 swap today. Went smoothly thanks to all the info I've found on here and NAGCA!

A few issues though that aren't addressed in this FAQ:

1 - I had to shorten my rear driveshaft. I've got 3"-3.5" of lift (F/R swap with stock fronts and XJ 4.5" coils up front). I took off about 2", though i really only needed it about 1.5" shorter. I went a little on the short side to compensate for the increase pinion yoke length of the 8.8 when it goes in soon.

2 - I swaped out the spedo sensor. The gear was the same between the two cases, #35 if I recall, but the sensor had a different # between the two. I put the one from the 249 in it just incase, not sure if it's necessary.

3 - I swapped the whole planetary assembly, instead of just the input shaft. Looked identical and drove home 100 miles without problems.

4 - Don't try to make a franken-tab out of whatever 231 tab you have and your 249 tab. I tried to make one the length of the 249 tab, with the 231 cut for the shfter and the plastic insert from the 249. It's too long and isn't exactly the right angle. Just pay the $8 to get the dealer part :lol:

Also, I've added a 231 FSM in this FAQ folder.....

Thanks again guys,
Rob

[gearhead313]

I dont know if this will help at all, but i found a few straggler pictures on my laptop of when i did my 231 swap... not hte greatest, just some random pics. I had more of the driveshaft differences, but can't find them.

left 231 right 249


left 249 right 231


top-231 (xj 4.0l auto)
bottom-stock 249


my happy welded VC after around 3500miles


left 231 right 249


trying to get the chain width difference


front drive output yoke
left 231 right 249

[Grand Taz]

Has anyone here done this swap with a 247? Are the swaps fairly simular?

I have a 2000 wj with the 4.7 V8 and NP 247. I'm starting to have problems with it. Its making a bad clicking noise when under stress.

[MaineZJ]

ZJ 249-231 Swap FAQ Write-Up
Front Output Yoke
Depending on what vehicle you source your 231 from, you may run into this problem. I got mine from a YJ and YJ's use a single u-joint at the t-case end of the front driveshaft, whereas ZJ's, XJ's, and TJ's all use a double cardan joint.

How'd you fix this? Just ran into the problem... swapping a 93 249 for a 89 YJ 231.
swapped entire planetary unit, and speed sensor (which hits the fuel lines - do newer grands use flex lines there, or still hard?)
haven't fixed the shift linkage yet, since I don't have the driveshaft bolted in.