D70 Build Up (Write-Up) and Discussion

[Kraqa]

OK, here it go's.

The axle is from a 1993 dodge D600 dually.

3 Ton
~67" wide
35 spline 1.5" shafts
4.56 gears
Open Carrier
8 lugs
full floater



I didn't take any pics of the axle when i first got it so the pics jump right into the shaving part. There is a huge lip on the bottom side of the housing from the factory that I decided to remove for clearance sake.
So this is what i lined out for removal

I used a zip disk on a angle grinder and some sanding pads to smooth it out. Went very quick.

Another from the backside

here is a pic of the current D70 i have running right now to compare the lip



Now that that is all taken care of it is time to address the hubs. it is a full floater so the lock nuts will have to come off first.

i used a punch and a hammer to hit the nuts off since i didn't have the socket for it.

once the ring is out there is a second nut you must remove

now that that is removed it will look like this


Pull off the hub and your left with the spindle and the drum break backing plate. I will be swapping disks on this so the backing plate will have to come off.


Once that is removed you'll repeat the procedure on the other side and it should look like this



at this time i cut off the leaf spring mounts. I didn't take a pic of this because i got carried away and plus that is a very easy step i figured that it is self-explanatory.

Now I’ll come back to the hubs when I address the disk brake swap. For now I’m off to make spring perch’s.

I used 6" of C3 structural channel with 1-1/4" of 2-3/4" SCH40 pipe and a piece of 1/4" plate (for the spring retainer



welded the pipe onto the C3



Then laid out my spring mount location. The piece of tape is to mark the centerline of the axle (the right side of the tape is center) then I marked 21" from center on both sides



Then marked 3" on either side of each mark



Then set the pinion angle to where i wanted it and clamped the spring perch in place making sure it was level.



Then weld her up.



This is a pic with the spring retainer in place.




This is all i have done so far i'm in the process of making a bomp proof dif-cover i will outline that in the next few days.

[Alaska ZJ]

I was going to post this exact build up. lol. Guess I won't now.

A couple things. First the OUTER nut is the Lock (retaining) nut and the inner nut is the compression (preload) nut. Simple vernacular mix up no big deal.

Second is a suggestion. Thread the nuts back onto the spindle when your housing is sitting bare like that. Trust me having to file the threads straight because you knocked it off the jack stands is a real bitch. Plus you won't lose those nuts.

Why are you swapping 70's?

My axles are out of a dodge D600 as well. BEEFY.

[gearhead313]

i was going to say jesis gawd, is it really necessary to go with a D70....but then i think, what im i talking about...I need a d70!!! rock on!

[deadman]

Haha great a D70 writeup!

I am on a hunt for a D60/D70 combo right now, and will start working on it as soon as I find em. This stuff will help me bigtime.

[Kraqa]

Alaska,

thanks for the input. i will change the write up to clarify the second nut. If you want to add any more info to this write up as i go t along your more then welcome. the more info the better.

I'm swappin 70's because i like to be able to drive like a but and not worrey about breaking axles. i started with a ford 9" a while back built that and got a 70 for free so i had to puit it in. then i found out that i couldn't get any parts for it. so i got this for 100 CDN and i thought that was a steal. I know I know i said i don't liek breaking things and i'm only runiing a D44 front end. that will be a whole other write up at a later date. it will soon be a D60.

and besides why not run a 70, the right price the right time?? i love it. super beef.

are you going to shave and plate the bottom of yours?? if so please send me pics and some details. i would love to see it how you did it. there is not very much room under the ring gear.

I shoul be putting this axle i nthis weekend. i hope. the dif cover wont be done till mid next week. i'l keep you all posted.

[deadman]

then i found out that i couldn't get any parts for it.

How come? Is there a wierd ass 70 I should be aware of?

BTW... Does anybody know what trucks came with a D70U?

[Kraqa]

stay away from the pre 1977 models especially the 23 spline ones. For most of them they stopped making gears in the late 80's and there is VERy few companies that make shafts for them

[Alaska ZJ]

I cut off about what you did. Clearence is nice but where I "usually wheel" it is not all that important. Dependability is though and after hearing all the horror stories of not betting the rear to seal up I have decided that I will only go so far.

[ATL ZJ]

Very nice writeup. Looks real clean so far, and makes me wish I'd gone with a D70 instead of the axles I'm running now. Oh well, later on down the road I guess.

[Kraqa]

ya there really isn't that much materials to be shaved-off once you plate the bottom with something worthy of beeting. plus you would only gain about 3/8" more ground clearance. and for the threat of not being able to seal. the dificulty of welding cast and the work involved i don't think i'l be doing to much modifications to the housing.

[chadjans]

I don't see a 14b on your poll.

[Kraqa]

ya well i tryed to go with the axle i was doing and the most popular to swap into the ZJ's. that would be covered by other. and then i tryed to put a option for "who doesn't give a fuck" but it wouldn't let me type that.

[Kraqa]

well i found out what makes this axle a 3 ton and my other d70 a 1.5 ton. the only difrence is in the hubs and bearings. both are rated at 3000 lb but it is the hubs that make the difrence and the type and size of hub bearings that allow it to handle the bigger loads.

[deadman]

I don't see a 14b on your poll.

Why would you want a 14b over a D70?

Tell me if I am wrong, but what I remember from reading was that they are about the same size... so no wheight saving for the 14b.

The D70 is supposed to be slightly stronger... even so I remember a lot of argueing about this.

You have more gearing options with the D70.

[Kraqa]

the only reason i would want a 14 bolt is that they have the third pnion bearing like the ford 9". now if the 70 had that that would be freekin sweet.

[Alaska ZJ]

And the 70 does not hang down so God aweful low.

If you get a D70U it is smmmmmooooth on the bottom.

[chadjans]

I don't see a 14b on your poll.

Why would you want a 14b over a D70?

Tell me if I am wrong, but what I remember from reading was that they are about the same size... so no wheight saving for the 14b.

The D70 is supposed to be slightly stronger... even so I remember a lot of argueing about this.

You have more gearing options with the D70.

Because they are cheaper than a 70 unless you get one for free, second pinon support and a two piece carrier. Who cares about gearing. What are you going to do drive your rig on the street. Get some 5.13's and spend money on the tcase.

Chad

[Kraqa]

both 70's that i have are 2 peice carriers. and its real nice going to a wrecker and buying 4.56 and lower gears for super cheep. they came stock with up to 7.17 gears.

[Kraqa]

Here is some axle tube information.



*Information Courtesy Of: Four Wheeler, Jan 1999

[Kraqa]

Ok wells it’s been a while since I have had time to sit down and post more information but here is go's:

Here is the side-to-side comparison of the 23 spline Vs. 35 spline shafts.

They are very similar in size both around 1.5"

Next I moved on to welding on my LCA brackets, I used the same technique as welding on the spring perches, mark from center, set the pinion angle and then welding them on level.




The 4-link truss was welded on he same as the LCA brackets. And then the top was leveled off and copped so that I can weld on the UCA brackets



Next the UCA brackets are going to be welded to the truss. I don't have a pic of this so I’m going to use a pic from later on in the build up to show it on there. (Sorry)


Then it is on to the hub reassembly and disk brakes.
Clean the hub with a wire wheel and degrease the interior to get all the old grease out.


Then the rotor is from a 79 F250 front d44, it is meant for 9/16 studs, the d70 I have has 5/8" studs so the holes have to be drilled out to fit the larger size. I wanted to stick with the 9/16" studs so that it matches my front axle so I had to get some adapting studs from the parts store. They are approx 5/8" at the top where it holds the rotor and presses into the hub but 9/16" threads. Standard Papco "D" style stud with the part extension 469.


I loosely placed in all the studs and then preceded the tedious work of pounding each stud in with a hammer. In a criss/cross pattern to make sure it seats properly.

Next its on to the bearings.

First the inner hub bearing
This axle is a 1 ton axle but in a three ton truck. So the hub bearings are freekin huge, twice the size of my 1.5-ton hub bearings that were in my old d70. The hub construction is way beefier in this one too.




So pack it nicely with grease and drop it into place.


Then on to the inner hub seal. Make sure to put a small amount of grease on the inner rubber flap to help it seal/lubricate it self as it slides into place.

then press it into place.


Once this is done your ready to install the hub on the axle with the same procedures as the removal covered in the beginning of this thread. Here is a pick of the outer bearing.


And both hubs in place.



Now its time to weld on the dick brake brackets. I had made these brackets for my old d70 and I don't have any pics of how I made them but I just cut them off the old axle and cleaned em up....a bit. I actually only cleaned the paint off them where I was going to weld I didn't strip the whole thing.

Here they are still attached to the caddy calipers. Anyone notice that the homemade e-brake lever is on upside down???? Maybe that’s why my e-brake never worked!!!! Man do I feel stupid. I fixed that now tho.



I set the whole caliper on the bracket over the rotor and used old zip disk (approx 1/16") as a spacer between the inside pad and the rotor. Then very sparingly tacked it in place. It is very important to tack the bracket from the inside facing the hub so the heat will pull the bracket toward the spacer and rotor. If you don’t it will pull the bracket away from the rotor not utilizing the spacer you have and making your brakes not work right.
Then pull the calipers and the hubs off and brace the bracket.


Make sure to cover your spindle with something that won’t let the spatter burn through and ruin the surface on your bearing seats. That could potencially ruin your axle.

Then weld her up!!!!.

The finished product will look like this



Time for paint. I ran out of jack stands because my old d70 was sitting on it so I had to use a spring to prop it in place.



Now I forgot to do this before I painted the axle but it still worked out ok, I had to weld up the breather hole (the 4-link truss was covering it) so i got a 7/16" drill bit and a tapered 1/4" NPT tab then drilled and tapped my housing.

Then fit in an air fitting quick disconnect.

I’m going to use one of those coiled air lines for a breather hose.

Once everything is dry, put the carrier back in. reassemble the brakes as outlined above. Put in your shafts, bolt on your cover and run your brakes lines. I used the old ones from the previous axle.

Bling Bling!!!


Time for re-installation in the vehicle.

Oh wait...but first, since the axle isn't under the vehicle yet i figured it would be a great time to make some more room in my fenders for where the tires kept rubbing.





i could use some sort of sophisticated cutting device but I chose a more accurate measure of fender manipulation.

A calibrated pound-O-meter set on 9 pounds.



I started swinging and ended up with this.



Got my self a can of undercoating (made in Canada )
And touched it up.





Well if you've noticed I didn't mention anything about shocks. I was going to see if I had enough room with the new 4-link truss to do triangulated shocks but I didn't. My rear shocks are too long. Maybe another day I’l buy shorter ones. so I welded the shock mounts on after the axle was installed.

before shocks mounts welded on


after shocks mounts


Well now its done. The wider rear stance is great. My old d70 was only 64-1/2" wide this is 67. And the new slimmer 4-link truss will make it allot easier to try and fit exhaust.

I hope this inspires more people to start looking into alternative swaps then the 8.8 and ford 9". There is so many more axles out there with tons of options.

[OverkillZJ]

Those mudflaps are FUCKING AWESOME and nothing short of it.

Good work!

[Kraqa]

the flares and flaps are removable for when i got off road but for now since it is a daily driver i have to keep it legal.

[LouisianaZJ]

how heavy is that fawkin axle?

[robselina]

I don't see a 14b on your poll.

Yea, I'm a 14B fan too. I can get them for $50 all day long with 4.10s and 4.56s, if I ever need more beef than the D60 in the waggy, it'll be getting a 14 bolt. Not saying D70s aren't cool or anything, but for what you can buy 14 bolts for, and how freakin' beefy they are, I see no reason for anything bigger...

[Kraqa]

i think around 400lb or so maybe more i know i lost bout 65lb going to disk brakes.