Thread: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU)

Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1 Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    1,243
    Rep Power
    94
    This is the Moparman (from JU) method of cleaning out carbon build-up from your engine. I found the JU search useless, but, luckily I made a copy and saved it many moons ago. Enjoy:
    __________________________________________________ __________

    Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner
    (Cleaning carbon build-up from engine)

    Parts Needed:
    2 cans of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (available at local Chrysler dealer...7 bucks a can)
    New set of spark plugs(optional)
    Correct amount of new engine oil
    New oil filter
    Toothbrush
    Clean rag
    Long thin tube(I bought a funnel that came with a long thin tube connected to it at Pep Boys...will come in handy in step 2)

    NOTE: Total time should be 45 to 60 minutes. This includes waiting time.
    I recommend doing this at the time of your next oil change only because I advise changing engine oil and filter afterwards.
    Also, before doing anything, a good idea is to first loosen up the spark plugs and then re-tighten them back ONLY to a snug fit(not too tight). This will make life a lot easier when removing the spark plugs in step 2.

    1). Cleaning off carbon from combustion chamber and valves:
    Start the engine and let it idle or take the Jeep out for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature(engine should be hot). Turn off engine. Remove the air hose from the throttle body. With engine OFF, spray some Mopar CCC onto throttle plate(not too much) and linkage and clean off carbon using a small tooth brush(make sure you clean the bottom of the throttle plate also). Wipe off dissolved carbon with clean rag……should shine like new. Start the engine(make sure it's hot) and spray the entire can of Mopar CCC into the throttle body….the intake manifold vacuum will suck it in. You may have smoke coming out of the tailpipe during this, and your idle may drop or even try to stall…..this is normal. It’s important NOT to rev the engine during this but to keep a steady idle around 1000-1200 RPM by controlling the idle with your hand on the throttle body spring pack(a glove may come in handy since the throttle spring pack may be hot). When can is empty, shut off the engine immediately. Reconnect the air hose to the throttle body. Proceed to step 2.


    2). De-gumming the piston rings:
    Remove the spark plugs and spray a can of Mopar CCC(divided evenly) into the cylinders through the open spark plug holes. If you have trouble spraying into one of the plug holes, try using a funnel or small tube to guide the cleaner into the plug hole or else try to aim as best you could. Reinstall plugs then give the engine a couple of quick cranks to mix up the cleaner(don't try to start the engine). Wait 20-30 minutes then remove the spark plugs. Crank the engine over a couple of times again to eject any excess cleaner out of the open plug holes to help prevent possible hydro-lock. Might be a bit messy but important. Reinstall original plugs. Start the engine(may need to fire it up a few times) and DO NOT let it just sit and idle or else the carbon will just re-cook in your engine. Rather, rev the engine to 3000-3500 RPM's 10-15 times. Again, don't be surprised if you see a lot of smoke...it's normal. Take the Jeep out and drive the heck out of it for a few minutes. This will do a good job of cleaning out any excess carbon from the engine. Oh, and of course rids the neighborhood of any bugs or mosquitoes if smoke happens to still flow out your tailpipes...that's the best part.
    3). Install new spark plugs if you decided to get a new set. Change engine oil and filter since the cleaner may have passed by the piston rings.
    *Result...Clean throttle body, intake manifold, valves, combustion chamber, piston and piston rings.
    *Bonus*...NO MORE PINGING.
     

  2. #2  
    Senior Member Lifetime Supporter
    Grand Slam West Planner
    Admin
    BigDaveZJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    10,676
    Rep Power
    221
    Good call bringing that over here! Figured this would the best forum for it though.
     

  3. #3  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    1,243
    Rep Power
    94
    Glad I could be of help!

    You want me to just shoot you a PM from now on?
    I break stuff.
     

  4. #4  
    Senior Member Alaska ZJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    930
    Rep Power
    92
    no need to PM. Just post it. All of the moderators are active enough to move it to the nessecary place if you happen to post in the wrong forum.

    Thanks man I was just thinking about doing this again (did it 100k ago)
    "Saddam Hussein has been engaged in the development of weapons of mass destruction technology which is a threat to the countries in the region and he has made a mockery of the weapons inspection process. The responsibility of the United States in this conflict is to eliminate weapons of mass destruction, to minimize the danger to our troops and to diminish the suffering of the Iraqi peole." - Nancy Pelosi circa 1998

    And your rebuttal Ms. Communist bitch?
     

  5. #5  
    Senior Member Lifetime Supporter
    Grand Slam West Planner
    Admin
    BigDaveZJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    10,676
    Rep Power
    221
    Quote Originally Posted by JeepinHank

    You want me to just shoot you a PM from now on?
    If you've got something you think should be in the FAQ forum, post it up!
     

  6. #6 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Socorro, NM 87801
    Posts
    608
    Rep Power
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by Moparman
    Reinstall plugs then give the engine a couple of quick cranks to mix up the cleaner(don't try to start the engine). Wait 20-30 minutes then remove the spark plugs. Crank the engine over a couple of times again to eject any excess cleaner out of the open plug holes to help prevent possible hydro-lock.
    I dunno about that...it sounds like you guys have used this method successfully before, but the idea of cranking over the engine, even a little, with fluid in the chambers doesn't exactly sound like a good idea to me....since the engine is supposed to be hot, does this stuff vaporize in there?

    I hydro-locked an engine once. It was an expensive mistake I only had to learn once, don't want to go there again....(I stay the @#$#@ away from mud and water for the most part now)
     

  7. #7  
    Senior Member JpRngr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    540
    Rep Power
    86
    By quick cranks, I think he meant bumps. Nothing more than half a revolution or so. Don't hook up your plug wires and it won't start.


    Corey
     

  8. #8  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Socorro, NM 87801
    Posts
    608
    Rep Power
    86
    Quote Originally Posted by JpRngr
    By quick cranks, I think he meant bumps. Nothing more than half a revolution or so. Don't hook up your plug wires and it won't start.


    Corey
    yea, but its still trying to compress fluid, regardless of how much you turn it or if the plugs are connected....
     

  9. #9  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    1,243
    Rep Power
    94
    I don't really think its all that much fluid. The stuff vaporizes pretty quickly, and when you divide that can among 6 cylinders, I wouldn't think its much more fluid than the fuel injector puts in there.

    With hydrolock - the entire volume of the cylinder that would normally be filled with air is filled with water (or at least a majority of it).
    I break stuff.
     

  10. #10  
    Senior Member JpRngr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    540
    Rep Power
    86
    Even if it fills the cylinder up quite a bit, bumping the starter over a little bit at a time shouldn't hurt it. You shouldn't be spinning it enough to force a problem. I, too, have hydro-locked an engine and had to rebuild it after bending a rod, so, I'm leary also. But, I don't see this as being a problem, unless YOU make it a problem.


    Corey
     

  11. #11  
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Gainesville, FL
    Posts
    2,428
    Rep Power
    106
    Thanks for posting this Hank

    8)
    Quote Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
    it's a hobby that rarely makes good financial sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
    I can proudly say that I am one of the "OG's" of mutilating a perfectly good luxury SUV.
    1996 V8, Claytons, HP30/D44a locked, ARB, winch, WJ brakes and high steer, 33s, some body damage.
     

  12. #12  
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    L-Town Livonia, MI
    Posts
    8
    Rep Power
    0
    I'm gonna give it a try this week thanks for the post
    ZJ 4.0, 242, on 32's
     

  13. #13  
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    L-Town Livonia, MI
    Posts
    8
    Rep Power
    0
    Well I did the CCC on sat. added new plugs and cleaned and oiled the K&N. It has definately breathed a little life into the 4.0, not like hp gains just a smoother accel/idle and some improved mpgs(normal hwy to work was avg 18mpg now 20-21mpg, in the two days). Will do again down the road. Thanks again.
    ZJ 4.0, 242, on 32's
     

  14. #14  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    734
    Rep Power
    90
    I bought myself some yesterday. I probably do it every six to eight months.

    Hunter
    04 4.7 HO limited
    04 4.7 HO Overland
    00 4.7 with no lift or mods (RIP)
    94 5.9 with lift and mods (sold)
     

  15. #15  
    Senior Member Lifetime Supporter TrojanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Wherever the Navy needs me
    Posts
    1,874
    Rep Power
    101
    Found a better way to do it. BTW seafoam = mopar CCC.

    Put a piece of rubber hose on the vacuum port on the intake manifold that is plugged off (its towards the front, on the top of the manifold). Stick the hose in the can about halfway. The engine will suck it is on its own, but have a buddy keep the throttle up. When half the can is gone remove the vacuum line going to the master cylinder and stick the hose on that port. Put the other half of the can into that side. Doing this allows more carbon build up to be cleaned, as it is going in from each side rather than directly in the middle.
    Quote Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
    This thread proves that wheeling is better than the internet.
    Weavsworld: i dont know shit about MC, i just make it work
     

  16. #16 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Junior Member scotch hanneman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    long beach
    Posts
    6
    Rep Power
    0
    I work at a jeep/volkswagon stealership and that stuff is awesome!!! We remove plugs and fill all of the cylinders up than spray everything else into the t-body. Let sit over night than crank the engine in morning with no plugs in it. Re install new plugs than look out for the smoke, let idle for 30 or so min. than road test for a mile or so till the smoke stops. A fantastic product I have tried most brands and that is my favorite by far!
     

  17. #17 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Charlottesville, VA
    Posts
    36
    Rep Power
    0
    I know this threads old, but just use hot water. It does just as good of a job, and its free. Just get a spray bottle and mist it in the intake. Oldest trick in the book!
    1996 ZJ 4.0 42RE NP242 Nothing Special. Custom 4" LA spring 10'

    93 YJ 383 on 'pane 405hp/435tq NV4500 6.34:1 231/300 10.88:1 Locked Tons 5.38's 40's 108" WB
     

  18. #18 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    28
    Rep Power
    0
    is mccc same as seafoam?
     

  19. #19 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Senior Member Lifetime Supporter ZJ TINS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Cedar Rapids Ia
    Posts
    1,337
    Rep Power
    88
    Also BG44k or the other BG product
     

  20. #20 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Member quadratokn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    107
    Rep Power
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rightaway View Post
    is mccc same as seafoam?
    Its mostly all petroleum, but the extra 1% (or some small amount) of different ingredients are apparently designed for the Mopar sensors.
     

  21. #21 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Junior Member clemsonZJ95's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Clemson, SC
    Posts
    6
    Rep Power
    0
    same thing as seafoam.
     

  22. #22 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Senior Member dp96zj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,921
    Rep Power
    126
    this must be one of those threads that just can't die lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Derek33
    Its a jeep, it doesn't have to make sense.
     

  23. #23 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Senior Member Lifetime Supporter
    Admin
    OverkillZJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    7,941
    Rep Power
    179
    Bringing this back from the dead, because i'm about to do this on the 5.9 for her yearly tuneup! First wheeling trip in 5 days. Wheelin' season is here!
     

  24. #24 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Senior Member Jeeptech01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    2,354
    Rep Power
    109
    I use it as a last resort on engines with leaky unseating valves 75% success rate. It really works.
    2004 Ford Lightning

    Autism? Its more common than you think..
    http://www.autismspeaks.org/whatisit/index.php
     

  25. #25 Re: Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU) 
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    cherry valley il
    Posts
    146
    Rep Power
    60
    also thing that work amazingly

    -gm top engine cleaner-
    -mix of 50-50 water and atf-(seriously works just as good)

    suck the bottle up by an engine vacuum tube with engine running(obviously not quick enough to hydro lock the engine, duh), shut off immediately, let it sit for 15-20 minutes, start the engine and take off down the road at full throttle... watch the smoke and carbon fly

    this is the method cadillac dealers use to get rid of all the buildup of carbon in the big caddy engines that grandma has never taken part 1/4 throttle
     

Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •