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Bracket construction. Any tips? 44 swap

Thread: Bracket construction. Any tips? 44 swap

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  1. #1 Bracket construction. Any tips? 44 swap 
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    Ok, I'll be starting my 44 swap this weekend. I'm going to make all my brackets with 1/4". I know that's prolly super overkill, but I seem to find a way to bend the hell outta control arm brackets. My welding is fine, but this will be the first thing of this nature I've done. I had my 8.8 put in for me because I have no garage and I needed it this winter. I can't decide if I should use angle iron (u shaped) or just sheet metal to build the brackets. That and any other helpfull hints would be greatly apprecieated.


    Thanks.
    Jereme
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  2. #2  
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    How thick are those tubes you'll be welding the 1/4" to? Where will the weak link be then?
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    Blue 93 ZJ Laredo
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  3. #3  
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsh
    How thick are those tubes you'll be welding the 1/4" to? Where will the weak link be then?
    I don't know how thick they are yet. I was planning to run the heat for however thick that tube is and do both sides of the brackets. I'm a newb at this shit, is that a bad idea?
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  4. #4  
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    1/4 is fine. this is going to be a front D44 swap? I would use sheet metal. Your best bet might be to purchase some pre-cut tabs. It will make your life and project much better and faster! email me( info@rockcontrol.com), I have a bunch of stuff which was left over from a CNC waterjet order I made which might work for you application.
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  5. #5  
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    1/4" minimum. build it once build it right.
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  6. #6  
    Senior Member Troy's Avatar
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    I used box tubing, cut the side off that had the weld and ground the corners down...

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  7. #7  
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    Is there any side effects from putting the CA mounts on the back of the axle instead of the bottom?
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  8. #8  
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    I'm talking out of my ass here, but I'd think the only consideration you'd have to make when putting the LCA brackets on the side, as opposed to the bottom, of the axle tube, would be vertical separation of the upper mounts.

    IOW if you move the lower mounts up 2", you'd need to do about the same with the upper mounts to adequately control axle wrap forces. (and suspension squat maybe?)
    I break stuff.
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  9. #9  
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepinHank
    I'm talking out of my ass here, but I'd think the only consideration you'd have to make when putting the LCA brackets on the side, as opposed to the bottom, of the axle tube, would be vertical separation of the upper mounts.

    IOW if you move the lower mounts up 2", you'd need to do about the same with the upper mounts to adequately control axle wrap forces. (and suspension squat maybe?)
    hmmm I'd be hesitant to move my upper mount up any higher because I'm afraid the upper arm would hit the oil pan in full flex.
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  10. #10  
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    no in the front there would be no ill affects. especially if it is going to be a radius style set up.
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  11. #11  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kraqa
    no in the front there would be no ill affects. especially if it is going to be a radius style set up.
    still no digital camera, but I run my rears completely flush with the bottom of the axle and the front 44 brackets hang down about a 1/4"-1/2" below the bottom of the axle. I used 1/4" plate with the D30 spring perches in front. In hindsight, I wish I just built my own but they are tied in well with the control arm mounts and already had everything I needed. Truss is bent from 1/4" plate as well. There is a 1/4" piece from the truss to the diff to further stiffen things until I build a diff skid.

    '94 V8, 37s, Clayton 4-link, locked 44/9", 1ton histeer, extd whlbase, 231, plenty of other junk - SOLD BIATCH!
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  12. #12  
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    Might want to reinforce your control arm bracket in the corners by the tubes. Bill's made by dynatrac in the same exact style broke after ~2yrs of use on bothe sides in his clayton radius setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by Raacerx
    Quote Originally Posted by Kraqa
    no in the front there would be no ill affects. especially if it is going to be a radius style set up.
    still no digital camera, but I run my rears completely flush with the bottom of the axle and the front 44 brackets hang down about a 1/4"-1/2" below the bottom of the axle. I used 1/4" plate with the D30 spring perches in front. In hindsight, I wish I just built my own but they are tied in well with the control arm mounts and already had everything I needed. Truss is bent from 1/4" plate as well. There is a 1/4" piece from the truss to the diff to further stiffen things until I build a diff skid.

    hp30, 8.8, long arms, chevy steering, 6" lift, 35 mtrs, 231, locked SOLD
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  13. #13  
    Senior Member luvthejeep's Avatar
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    i used stock brackets- reenforced where needed- if you get the right front dont worry bout the tube thickness- mine were 1/2"
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