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After all this talk I decided to move my fan from the bottom of the rad to the top of the rad.
After driveing for 3 days I noticed no difference in running temps.
Drove out to Lake mead yesterday towing a SeaDoo up hill in 110*Heat it ran about 210*, on the flats in dropped to 200*
Yeah I doubt it would make a difference, since the fan is pulling the same amount of air either way.
I just realized that it will run hot, and stopped worrying about it. I mean if it's hitting like 260* I'll let it cool, but the highest I've seen it hit was around 230* and I was beating the shit of it it (bouncing off rev limited) playing in the snow with it being 90* out.
With the heat that he have been having in Idaho (was 106* yesterday) my truck runs hot too. Without pulling a trailer, it will come close to 190*, with the trailer 200-220*... Now it normally runs about 150-160* to give you an idea.
Well I attempted to install my fan today and it did not fit with it at the top of the radiator. I got frustrated at that point and pulled it off and stuck the stock one back in.
I need to dive into it again next weekend and may try to see if it will fit on the bottom of the radiator. It was hitting the water pump and pulley.
I will get some pix off the camera later and post them up.
Wow there is that much of a difference in space? Man should look into that myself I guess.Originally Posted by ZJdrive
Just mount it on the bottom. It's a better fit that way. I'll take some pics later on for you.
Will check it out next weekend also, on the bottom it is only missing about an inch or two of the top, really can't imagine that making a big difference in the performance.
Dirk, yeah, just mount it on the bottom. Mine worked fine there this weekend, well other than the starter relay that I used for high speed taking a shit. But it kept things cool, and it was like 100 out all weekend here. 'Wheeling was dusty, dirty, but fun, and the Jeep stayed cool, which was a great testament to the fan.
Cool. I actually have one of the Delta Controls modules to run the fan with.
Anyone know of a car you can pull something like this from? I know lots of cars have e-fans.Originally Posted by Cue-Ball
K2
How about a Ford Taurus??
Best to just order up one of DC controllers or build your own like some have done with HD relays and such.
I think he is referring to the controller.Originally Posted by O'Tool
Yeah, I know...Originally Posted by Cue-Ball
That was just my lame attempt at humor this morning!
Flexalite makes a controller as well. I think it's around $70. Basically the same things as the deltra controllers one.
If you're talking about their VSC, it's a piece 'o-shit. I have one sitting on my workbench at home, broken. I couldn't get those assholes to respond to my e-mail or voice mail pleas of getting it replaced while it was under warranty either. I suspect their other controllers aren't much betterOriginally Posted by nate
There's no comparison of the build quality of the DCC -vs- the flimsy steaming shitpile of FAL.
What is broken? I have one, no problems... been on the Jeep for over a year.
I've been through three of them. Summit took care of the first two, they referred me to the manufacturer for the third. They all seem to suffer from similar symptoms and I've heard other people complain of similar problems.
My first one went up in smoke within a week of installing it. Figured it was just a fluke, so got a replacement. Second one had a huge temp swing and two contacts pulled out of it. Third one had a similar temp swing and one contact pulled out of it. All three of them had to have the low temp adjustment cranked all the way down to get it to engage the fan at a resonable temp and they never seemed to ramp up fan speed as the coolant got hotter.
I played around with probe placement too. I'll never buy a FAL product again, and I'll never use another temp probe that you have to push through the fins of the radiator either.
Sounds like you didn't buy the correct one. The one you need has 4 MOSFETs. The smaller one only has 2 and will melt down... I know.
Yes, because having 4 MOSFET's would have prevented the contacts from pulling out
I wasn't running the Taurus fan; I have the Perma-Cool p/n 19117 which pulls less than 11 amps. The FAL VSC p/n 31165 is rated to 30amp and is what was recommended. I only had a 15amp fuse on the switched side to protect the fan; I don't think I was stressing the VSC. A couple of quick Google searches show that I'm not the only one that's having issues.
I would have gone to the DCC if I had wanted to continue to fuck with the e-fan on the 4.0. Since I no longer drive the 4.0 much, I just put the mechanical fan back in it. It seemed to be more trouble than it was worth.
im currently installing it with relays but i found this on ebay. i got pumped up and was going to order it but now im second guessing it. this is the one that melts down right?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FLEXA...2560QQtcZphoto
pick up the hayden version of that for 20.00 at the store and use it to activate some heavy duty relays....that is how mine has been running for a long timeOriginally Posted by gunthagunth
Ok, just got mine 100% up and running on high speed, with decent shrouding. For the shroud, I cut up my factory clutch fan shroud and used the bottom portion. Then I fiberglassed it to the Taurus fan shroud. Now I have a shroud that covers the entire radiator, with the fan coming all the way to the top.
The first thing I noticed tonight is that the alternator is NOT up to task of running this thing on high. At idle, it drops the voltage to about 11-11.5, and the lights visibly dim. It even killed the damn engine when I was backing out of the driveway. I'm thinking of upgrading to the 136A 5.9L alternator, because there's just too much crap running, especially at night, for the alternator to keep up. It's not too bad if you're keeping decent RPMs going down the road, but at idle, it's bad news....
thats exactly wht happend to me I ordered my 136A 5.9 alt yesterday, and will install that and hopefully it'll help.
It isn't the alternator, you should check your wiring or your fan motor. We have 4 different installations using this fan in our family. Not one has this problem. The only high amp pull is on the start up for high. That is reduced just by staging from low to high on the fan.Originally Posted by J B
BUT, guaranteed that there is a problem somewhere.
OH yeah.... How big is the alternator on a taurus? Think about it.
Good luck... Hope it all works out for you. This set up has really been great for me!
PS: For relays and switches, think about those used for extreme sound systems. I used 40 amp relays for the high/low and they have worked extremely well with no problem. Also the same for inline fuses. I keep plug in spares in my glovebox for all (each under $10). The spares have been the glovebox for two years now and no problems. The install is on a 97 5.2, and I pull a large camp trailer to events in the Sierras during the summer.
Last edited by GeneHubert; 07-29-2006 at 01:24 PM.
I have 80 amp 100% duty cycle solinoids, with 8 gauge wire ran to the fan when my jeep gets to about 200* I flip the fan on low the voltmeter drops like you said for a second then recovers, but on high the volt meter dropped drastically and never came up. how long does your fan normally run in the 90* weather driving around town? mine seems like it needs to stay on the whole time to keep the engine cool, but then my fan motor gets hot. WTF???
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