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This thread brings the fun. In fact, a lot of threads recently I've been enjoying
^ im also rather enjoying the build and all the info that comes with it
Why go through the trouble and expense of coilovers if you are not going to optimize their performance (via tuning)? Did you not purchase springs through a vendor who has an exchange program? Not that you seem to consider spring changes useful, but you could likely fix the stability issue for the cost of shipping a couple springs versus buying and installing a seperate bandaid. I'm sure you don't have to be told that spring rate plays a critical role in suspension performance and that calculators only give you a baseline, especially when going off of estimates for corner weights.
For getting the shocks revalved (not tuned specifically for your app. through testing), did you just tell ADS to make them stiffer? 161 lbs/in sounds like a very light spring rate for that much sprung weight. Could it be that too firm of shock valving is making it feel stiff, while too light a spring rate makes it feel unstable at the same time?
I'm not saying you're doing it wrong, just questioning why you did it the way you did and seem to not want to take advantage of your new setup's tunability.
Thanks for the question Chad, just one thing I didn't pull out of your most recent answer, how much uptravel before the secondary spring rate kicks in? I believe your running a true dual rate setup...
You said you have 5" total uptravel, so does the secondary rate kick in at 2" of uptravel? 3"?
That secondary spring rate is one of the bigger reasons I would think you would be more stable than your old setup. Once you hit that slide stop your spring rate jacks up to the rate of a single spring (300 or 350? lbs per inch) which should help control body roll
Already been explained. The ROI is within my acceptable range and the ride characteristics are fine. Therefore I am not going to mess with it.
Springs were purchased directly from Suspension Spring Specialists aka Blue Coil.
Ride height was set with the current spring rate along with up travel and down travel. Swapping springs for a marginal change is a waste of time. But I have already explained my position on spring swaps.
Corner weight was not estimated. I know the weight of the rig. Springs sag, rate remains the same. If I estimated corner weight the ride height would be wrong and so would mounting locations.
ADS valved the shocks based upon my sprung and unsprung weights which is stiffer in both rebound and compression than their everyday out the door turnkey shock.
This is combined spring rate.
It is a top heavy rig.
They were tuned before they were put on the rig based on calculations and such. But this does not fit Cam's definition of tuning. So.... whatever. Why people think putting coilovers on a rig is like installing gears is beyond me. But to each his own.
Last edited by chadjans; 10-23-2010 at 04:31 PM.
Some more "horrible fab" that I did not "think about what look[ed] GOOD" and as a result "is throwing random tube at it" for Maxx to enjoy. The rad needs some protection.
I hated the way it looked without fenders. So I took part of Kevin's Jeep and welded it to mine.
Found a swivel fitting that works really well on top of the PSC res.
Last edited by chadjans; 11-16-2010 at 01:51 AM.
Looks good Chad. I still think you should have left the windows in lol.
Thanks for thinking of me. My opinion stays.
"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to chadjans again"
Dangit
dimple dies are rad.
the fenders look good chad.
more tube....[shaking me head]....still looks good dude.
I have been thinking about how I want to redo the rockers. I can save a whole 4.37 pounds by doing what I have drawn in section, below. There would also be some other residual parts removed for more weight savings but I do not have specifics of them.
I am bound by the existing roll cage feet, so I think this is a good option.
The two pieces to assemble the rocker would be some 4 x 4 x 1/4 angle and some flat 5 x 1/4 plate welded to each other, as shown by the two black dots.
Seems like a lot of work for 4.37 lbs.....no?
Any other advantages?
Tyler, that looks the start of a boatside/rocker cutout which i think thisthig desperately needs. I just scrolled up to your wheelin pics and realized exactly how low your sliders are, ouch.
Boatsiding is as dumb as shaving a 14 bolt
Every little bit helps.
Yeah, gaining 2"+ clearance and losing 6"+ width. And getting all the tube on the same plane.
32" x 2 = 64" / 12" = 5.333' x 1.769 pounds = 9.434 pounds < 10 pounds
Again, every little bit helps. If I were to do it again I wouldn't start with a ZJ.
Yeah they are low and should have been replaced a long time ago. Just used what I had.
Considering that hardfacing a shave kit bottom piece is the best way to do it, I would rather spend my time building boat sides.
still looks good none the less.
Hey, I'm all for boatsides. But the way I understood his picture is he'd be taking his current 4x4 rocker and cutting it diagonally. Not much of a boatside if you ask me....
Chad, how are you losing 6" in width?
edit: Oh wait....are you adding both sides together? I got it.
Last edited by CrawlerReady; 11-25-2010 at 04:08 AM.
Current rocker guards are modified Kevin's Rock Sliderz with a 4 x 2 main body and 2 x 2 outer leg which are vertically below the current cage feet. I would be removing those and cutting out the OE sheet metal. Replacing with the welded assembly I drew. Which would be at the same vertical height as the cage foot.
Horizontially they are 3" narrower because there will be no outside leg.
AH got it. Well then seems like the work put into it would most likely pay off. Especially with the extra clearance gains.
Just cadded up the face plate. Gonna cut them out using a 5' x 10' plasma table. Cut long so they can be trimmed to length.
Holes are for a high lift jack.
Last edited by chadjans; 11-26-2010 at 04:02 AM.
The gained clearance is awesome.
Chad
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