8.8 Install in a ZJ

[phillyzj]

are we talking about the same thing? The part I'm talking about is the same as the exploder adapter that is spicer 2-2-1379 but in a 1310 form instead of 1330. It's just the same looking as the spicer 2-2-1369 1310 adapter.
or are you taking about taking off the stock flat flange on the 8.8 to adapt a 1310 ujoint yoke?

he's talking about a yoke instead of the stock flat flange. They are available readily and i believe came stock on something...not sure what off the top of my head. there are also aftermarket billet flanges out there.

The flanges do break, though it's better than having a D35 in there

[J B]

he's talking about a yoke instead of the stock flat flange. They are available readily and i believe came stock on something...not sure what off the top of my head. there are also aftermarket billet flanges out there.

The flanges do break, though it's better than having a D35 in there

Yokes have been available for some time, and I'd be willing to bet that they did come stock on something, but nothing I have looked under yet had anything more than the flange yoke.

But that factory Ranger flange yoke is a POS.

[zj95maxx]

Not too newb it up too much but, when installing this with Claytons, I am trying to push the axle back a bit to fit 35s. Thing we are worried about is the coil buckets being not centered on each other, top and bottom, does this matter?
I know it has been many times, pushing the axle back that is, but is it a problem if the spring has a small angle?

[AprilzWarrior]

Not too newb it up too much but, when installing this with Claytons, I am trying to push the axle back a bit to fit 35s. Thing we are worried about is the coil buckets being not centered on each other, top and bottom, does this matter?
I know it has been many times, pushing the axle back that is, but is it a problem if the spring has a small angle?

Spring bow is common, but not perfect IMO. You really dont need to go that far back with the axle for 35"s. But if you insist you will probably need to reangle the coil buckets on the axle.

[zj95maxx]

Spring bow is common, but not perfect IMO. You really dont need to go that far back with the axle for 35"s. But if you insist you will probably need to reangle the coil buckets on the axle.

We were thinking about an inch push back to fit the 35"s

[Sudz]

:when installing this with Claytons, I am trying to push the axle back a bit to fit 35s. Thing we are worried about is the coil buckets being not centered on each other, top and bottom

no problem - i moved my rear axle back about 1 1/4 inches - the clayton rear coil mount is a 3 piece design – there is a bracket that welds directly to the tube (the tube profile is cut into the bracket) – then on top of that you weld on a ¼ inch thick metal disk (supplied with a nut welded in the center) – you can position the metal disk anywhere you want on top of the tube bracket (metal disk gets welded on) – on top of that you mount a UHMW (white plastic) disk that has the coil profile milled into it and a center thru hole – you bolt the plastic disk down using a metal tab (tab is the coil hold down) which also secures the plastic disk to the metal disk - make sense?

[Sudz]

in these photos i have the axle bracket welded on – i am now locating the position for the metal disk (shown sitting on the floor near my left knee – you can also see the white plastic disk with the coil hold down tab) – prior to this, i set the 8.8 into position under the heep at the proper location and height and dropped a plumb bob down from the top coil mount center to the top of the axle bracket and marked the center. in the photo i am double checking the position against a sketch i made earlier – after everything was bolted in and the truck was sitting on it’s own weight, it was dead on and my coils have zero bow (rear moved back 1 1/4 inched from stock)

http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/phot...28100_6382.JPG

http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/phot...28100_6383.JPG

hth

[corrupt143]

he's talking about a yoke instead of the stock flat flange. They are available readily and i believe came stock on something...not sure what off the top of my head. there are also aftermarket billet flanges out there.

The flanges do break, though it's better than having a D35 in there

So where can I find one of these non-flanged yokes?

[phillyzj]

So where can I find one of these non-flanged yokes?

how much you want to spend?

http://www.markwilliams.com/drivesha...CategoryID=128

i'm guessing some of the fullsize fords with the 8.8 might have them, but i really don't know for sure. some are 1330 some are 1310 ujoints too...

[corrupt143]

how much you want to spend?

http://www.markwilliams.com/drivesha...CategoryID=128

i'm guessing some of the fullsize fords with the 8.8 might have them, but i really don't know for sure. some are 1330 some are 1310 ujoints too...

NOT a $190. At that price I'll just carry some spare flange yokes.

[phillyzj]

NOT a $190. At that price I'll just carry some spare flange yokes.

that's a billet racing level 1350 yoke, just the first thing that popped up in google. there are plenty of other options.

[J B]

I have run across them before....many are available for half that.

Just do a google search.

[zj95maxx]

no problem - i moved my rear axle back about 1 1/4 inches - the clayton rear coil mount is a 3 piece design – there is a bracket that welds directly to the tube (the tube profile is cut into the bracket) – then on top of that you weld on a ¼ inch thick metal disk (supplied with a nut welded in the center) – you can position the metal disk anywhere you want on top of the tube bracket (metal disk gets welded on) – on top of that you mount a UHMW (white plastic) disk that has the coil profile milled into it and a center thru hole – you bolt the plastic disk down using a metal tab (tab is the coil hold down) which also secures the plastic disk to the metal disk - make sense?

I am not using claton brackets, I am using ballistic brackets

[Sudz]

Not too newb it up too much but, when installing this with Claytons, I am trying to push the axle back a bit to fit 35s. Thing we are worried about is the coil buckets being not centered on each other, top and bottom, does this matter?

after explaining that this can be easily accomplished with claytons kit - i get this reply

I am not using claton brackets, I am using ballistic brackets

fawking noobtard

[Ex-Nihilo]

If you want a yoke, I am pretty sure some people have swapped over 9" yokes to the 8.8 but those are 1330s? I believe.

[zj95maxx]

after explaining that this can be easily accomplished with claytons kit - i get this reply



fawking noobtard

uh? I ment, with the clayton long arms, I am trying to push it back,as in, i am installing the kit(clayton longarms) and have a question about pushing back axle, but i am not using the bracket kit that you can order seperatly for coil buckets and whatnot..

[BLK97ZJ]

When i set up my 8.8 i just set the brackets up with the axle rotated up 12 degree's and now with the new CV drive shaft the coils sit perfect and I also pushed the axle back about 1 1/2".

[Ted_Z]

Just throught I'd add this link. True yoke for the 8.8. Granted its a 1330 size, its better than a pinion flange and flange to u-joint adapter.

http://www.riversidegear.com/categories/differential/ford-differential-parts/88-ford-parts/products/product-436.html

[Casey L]

Does anyone know how to get the images to work again?

edit - Thanks they are fixed now.

[AprilzWarrior]

Does anyone know how to get the images to work again?

edit - Thanks they are fixed now.

Pay the bill.

[AndyZJ]

Speaking about the joint at the end of Ranger driveshafts (1310) does anyone know if any of the Mustang driveshafts have that ujoint too? I took out a driveshaft the other day from a 4cyl. mustang with an 8.8 and that thing looked like it was about the same size as the 1310 Jeep joint, but none of the parts places i called could tell me what joint it was, they just said "uh, i have the ujoint, but not the type it is." Then on the same note, if it is the same as the one on the Rangers and Broncos i guess its junk just like them right?

[AndyZJ]

Nevermind i looked it up and crossed the part numbers and they were the same. So i guess i'll go with that till i upgrade to something a little stronger.

[Locked98GC]

You will have to take your measurements from your old axle, before you cut the brackets off, from the center line out to the brake assy. I took the measurements down, but can't find them anymore. I kept the accuracy of the brackets pretty close to the original measurements but wasn't anal about it. I am running adjustable LA's so wasn't concerned about it. If you are on fixed control arms, why are you putting in an 8.8, J/K. You'll have to be pretty accurate, I would say to within 1/16 inch for the control arm brackets, front to back (rotated on the axle)/side to side.

For my application I put the pinion up 7 degrees, resting on a block of wood. You will need a small level so the spring pads are level when welded on. For the control arms I eyeballed it for where they would ride on the axle front to back. Check further up the post for pictures of the finished axle.




Take some stiff cardboard (I used gasket material as it was laying around) with a straight edge so you can make right angle circles on the axle. This worked for me. Your control arm brackets are angled, so if you measured to the center of the bracket, the center would be tacked to the axle on that line you just laid down.






These 4 pictures show the basic layout. Hope you get the idea from here kinda how to set this part up.



I marked the pipe on both ends, this way if it fell off, and it did, you wont lose your center mark.



Measure from side to side an divide it by 1/2 and thats your center. (I'm really hoping you know that already.)




Get out your favorite square and start marking.

As for the drive shaft, its stock. There are 2 ways you can go for the u-joint on the explorer axle.

1) Get a 2-2-1379 Spicer Flange. Cheapest place I found them at was at Shaftmasters.com, $25.61 + SH. This way when you go the parts store you just ask for a U-Joint that fits the Grand.

2)If using the flange from the Explorer you will need a 1310-1330 Conversion U-Joint.

3) As mentioned above

[ZJ Pappy]

Shaftmasters.com

Sounds like a good time.








Please excuse my immaturity. Continue with the discussion.

[nick_n_ii]

I didn't see it any ware, but a Mustang 8.8 is about 3" narrower than the Exsploder's, found that when I bought one for my YJ..