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11-09-2006, 01:31 AM
Very good tech !!
Originally Posted by DankNesS
11-09-2006, 01:39 AM
Your diagram > *.*
11-09-2006, 08:46 AM
If you do get ABS to work, I would wire an on/off switch or something to shut it off off road. I remember a few times when I was still running the stock axles, the ABS would get confused and I ended up with a hard pedal and no brakes
11-09-2006, 09:13 AM
hey guys I got something more to addyou can keep ABS with the 8.8!
the Jeep system is 4 sensor but is still 3 hydraulic (front L&R and ONE rear)
I have done it myself on my brothers 90XJ with a 8.8 and the ABS does still work and will do it again on my ZJ. I was going to go the route of the tone rings on each wheel (like Z did) but that is a pain and costly once you get bushings for the 8.8 shafts since the OD area on the 8.8 shafts is smaller in that spot than the d35.
how I KEPT the ABS working on his XJ and will do the same on my ZJ:
my ZJ tone rings are 54 tooth per side and the 8.8 has 108 teeth on the ring gear 54x2=108!
his 90 XJ tone rings are 51 tooth but we decided to try it this way anyway. and later found out that the sensor does not count the teeth but just either sees a tooth or not.
I took the angle grinder and ground down EVERY OTHER TOOTH on the 8.8 ring gear tone ring making it 54 teeth.
We then wired both the Jeep rear sensors together left and right reds together and the ford sensor red all together and then if I remember correctly the left and right Jeep wires were yellow and wire those to the other ford sensor wire.
finished the install and bleed the brakes, then took it for a spin. the ABS light came on at startup like usual and then went off like usual! and didnt come back on as if there was a problem. I then slammed on the brakes and YES the ABS was STILL WORKING without the ABS light comming on! and it has worked perfectly since we finished the install 2 weeks ago and the 8.8 with disks is a real nice upgrade in braking. The 8.8 was installed b/c with his stroker it blew up the D35 (broken spider gears, chewed ring and pinion, bent the cross-shaft and more)
as far as I know I'm the first to be able to CONFIRM that this way works for sure. at least it did on his Bendix ABS brake system. I will later do this again on my ZJ when I find the right 8.8 with 4.10's in the yards.
I can't wait to get it running in my ZJ but I have not found a 8.8 with 4.10's in the cheap yards near me where I can get it COMPLETE for about $100 in great shape too. I figure since I'm doing the work myself I might be able to pull off the whole swap under $300 for sure, but it's the little things that can add up quick.....
here is a SUPER TECHNICAL wiring diagram I just made up for those that like pictures=)
Keep in mind I also ground off every other tooth on the 8.8 tone ring to equal 54 teeth. And this for sure works on a 90 XJ ABS system, and will test is out on my ZJ hopefully soon
Hmmm, wonder if i could use this same method to make my 2 sensor rear ABS into a single sensor ABS (bad sensor AND installing the Super 35 soon anyway)
Anybody have a write up on how to disable the ABS for offroad without making the ABS think its malfunctioning?
11-09-2006, 09:15 AM
Who cares if the ABS thinks it's malfunctioning? It shuts itself off if it senses a malfunction, which is exactly what you want it to do.
Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
11-09-2006, 10:04 AM
I Vote for deleting ABS
11-09-2006, 10:42 AM
hahah I thought yall would like the hardcore wiring schematic diagram
gonecheenin: I would not wire both sensors to just the left rear or the right rear b/c it would not work correctly if the opposite wheel of the sensor was locked the system would not know it. and if you did that then whats the point of keeping it if it doesn't work right....
Originally Posted by Krash80
11-09-2006, 10:45 AM
Agreed.. but if the rig is street driven alot it could be bad if your involved in a wreck and they find you gutted the ABS.
I don't have ABS on my ZJ. I pulled everything out. Sold on the pump on eBay just last week for $100 too
11-09-2006, 11:42 AM
I knew I shouldn't have junked mine.I don't have ABS on my ZJ. I pulled everything out. Sold on the pump on eBay just last week for $100 too
11-09-2006, 11:53 AM
Absolutely dead on! Let's say insurance knows your vehicle came with ABS, and you're involved in a wreck. If they find out that you bypassed a safety system that would stand even the slightest chance of preventing that accident, you'd probably be in violation of something or other and they have an out (and don't have to pay out.)
Just food for thought (cover your ass where you can!)
11-09-2006, 01:53 PM
Agree on not relying on only one sensor of a two sensor system. But if the axle was spooled or lincoln locked no problem with only one sensor. Why bother with ABS at that point?
If it wasn't for the possible issues of insurance I would have deleted ABS on mine. I'm thinking of trying to setup a disable switch which automatically resets enabled for on-road use. Maybe tied into the low range indicator or when the engine is shut down.
11-09-2006, 07:53 PM
Wow, great thread. How much time did it take you in total to do the swap? The reason I ask is because I live in a condo, and I can not work on my rigs in the parkade. So I plan to get a shop to do most of the work, primarily all the welding, and fabrication. I plan to grind all the stock 8.8 stuff off the housing myself. As for the ABS system, I plan to somehow delete it off my rig. Not sure how yet, right now I am just researching the 8.8 swap. My ABS just seems to randomly come on, at completely the wrong time. I scored a 8.8 with matching gears for my front D30 (3.73 gears). The only bad thing about it, is its drum brakes, off a 93 exploder. My final question, is related to the junk ZJ D35 rear. Long story short, the yoke came off the pinion stripping the threads. To get this stock D35 back to operating order, I will take it to a shop. How many hours should it normally take to replace the pinion? That is all and thanks again for all the great information in this Ford 8.8 swap thread.
01-01-2007, 04:20 PM
Cheapest place I found the 2-2-1379 Spicer Flange. Shaftmasters.com, $25.61 + SH.
U-Joint info when using the 8.8 Flange from an Explorer. This is the 1310-1330 Conversion U-Joint.
One of the many vehicles that uses this U-Joint as a stock item.
1978 F-100, 5.0L (302 cu.in.), 2 wheel drive, CrewCab, 2 piece rear driveshaft, used in all three positions.
Precision Regular U-Joint, Greasable, PCN-353, Summit Racing
Precisoin Super U-Joint, Greasable, PCN-275, Summit Racing
Precision Super U-Joint, Non-Greasable, PCN-253, Summit Racing
GMB Regular U-Joint, Non-Greasable, 2100134, Kragen
Neapco Regular U-Joint, Greasable, 10134, Kragen
Neapco Brute Force U-Joint, Non-Greasable, 10134BF, Kragen
McQuay Regular U-Joint, Unsure, U134, Kragen
McQuay Brute force U-Joint, Unsure, U134HP, Kragen
Precision Regular U-Joint, Greasable, PUJ-353, NAPA
Precisoin Super U-Joint, Greasable, PUJ-275, NAPA
Precision Super U-Joint, Non-Greasable, PUJ-253, NAPA
Neapco Regular U-Joint, Greasable, NUJ2100134, NAPA
Neapco Performance U-Joint, Unsure, NUJ2150134, NAPA
PDQ Regular U-Joint, Unsure, 1-0134, Autozone
PDQ Brute Force, Unsure, 1-0134BF, Autozone
You should notice a trend here for the part numbers.
Precision, 353/275/253
All others (but not all) I have researced end with 134.
Some of the sites I have gone to, and put in the info for the F-100, sometimes only gives a P/N that ends in 153. These will not work. Autozone for one example, but I listed their numbers up above.
It is a common U-Joint and can be purchased at most auto parts places using the F-100 above as a reference.
Last edited by Locked98GC; 04-19-2007 at 08:00 PM.
01-03-2007, 01:03 PM
true, but with a rear axle if its sensing at least one wheel then its still not flat out skidding broadside or anything
plus with a locked rear axle (spool for sure, not sure about a mechanical locker) the one sensor would tell the computer if both rear tires are locking up which would be all it actuallu needs to know to work fine
And i kept the ABS for exactly the reasons stated, to avoid any possible liabilitys during on highway use
also am planning on doing the offroad cancel deal to allow it to shut off when being used in the dirt but automatically reenable itself when needed
01-03-2007, 03:07 PM
Never use brute force u-joints for off-roading, they don't seem to be able to put up with the stress, I've broken quite a few on my YJ, yet to break the dana I have in now though.
01-03-2007, 08:58 PM
Nova or anyone, if you can get me the P/N and where to buy the Dana/Spicers from, I'll update the list.
01-03-2007, 11:24 PM
Not really sure on the part #. I buy mine from Denny's Driveshaft. He's built my driveshafts along with some IHRA dudes. Best there is.
http://dennysdriveshaft.com/
I'm sure if you called him, he'd be able to find the part # for you, hell he'd probably know it off the top of his head.
I know gonecheenin has a bad ass mochine and he pushes it pretty good a lot. He's a precision dude.
Last edited by nova; 01-03-2007 at 11:27 PM.
02-11-2007, 04:51 PM
ok another bump since I got my 8.8 in yesterday but I didn't have much time to test it out since with my luck the one I got had a bad pinion bearing that is making a ton of noise and since it is sunday the ford dealer is not open so I can get another crush sleeve...... but anyways!
I did it again and the ABS does still work on my ZJ and since pics are worth 1000 words check these out:
SUPER TECHNICAL DIAGRAM V2.0
and here are some pics of how to cut the tone ring to make it 54 teeth:
The braking upgrade alone was sweet! and I did not even mod the prop valve and the braking is much much better than stock.
now if I can just fix this stupid pinion bearing vib I'll be all good and I am looking forward to being able to use the 4wd
hmmm now I need some D60's
Last edited by DJJordache; 02-11-2007 at 04:53 PM.
Originally Posted by Krash80
02-11-2007, 09:29 PM
why screw around with this bullshit? - just buy a Spicer 2-2-1379 and be done with it (1310 flange yoke Ford 8.8)
I paid $26.18 from Drive Train Specialists (ask for Rich)
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/
02-11-2007, 11:15 PM
or you could get one from a ford ranger which is what I did the number on it was 2-2-671 IIRC but it is for sure a 1310 ujoint adapter
Originally Posted by Krash80
03-04-2007, 07:09 PM
I'm sure this has been talked to death but a search hasnt really given me a definitive answer so here goes.
I know the 8.8's out of the Explorers are a total of 1 1/4" shorter WMS-WMS. And from what I found in searches, the 8.8 is 59.5. Is this right? So using the addition I learned in first grade, the stock WMS-WMS on a ZJ is 60 3/4". This is just info I was curious about.
Now for the real question. Whats the WMS-WMS of the 98 and up Ranger FX4 8.8? I know theyre 31 spline with disc brakes, 4.10's and a Zexel-Torsen limited-slip differential but thats all the info I could find. Im thinking they must be shorter since nobody ever does this swap.
03-05-2007, 02:52 AM
this was sorta mentioned but not really discussed but what would be involved in the drum to disc conversion? as in could i use some or all the parts from my d35 disc brakes on the 8.8 wich would really be nice since i just replaced all the brakes on my 35
05-29-2007, 03:03 AM
The 8.8 out of the 93 and up Rangers is 1.5" shorter than the Explorer but the Zexel-Torsen does work in the Explorer 8.8.
Just thought I'd share.
05-29-2007, 03:09 PM
And that part is about as weak as weak gets. There are pictures ALL over the web of failed flange yokes.
If you're going to the trouble of swapping an 8.8, don't bother with the ranger flange yoke. If you do, you might want to consider having a custome driveshaft made of paper towel tubes so that you won't break the adapter.
Pinion yokes are readily available for the 8.8....much better route.
05-29-2007, 03:36 PM
are we talking about the same thing? The part I'm talking about is the same as the exploder adapter that is spicer 2-2-1379 but in a 1310 form instead of 1330. It's just the same looking as the spicer 2-2-1369 1310 adapter.
or are you taking about taking off the stock flat flange on the 8.8 to adapt a 1310 ujoint yoke?
Originally Posted by Krash80
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