8.8 Install in a ZJ

[J B]

If it has discs, it's certainly 31 spline, and that's the one you want.

[DJJordache]

I asked this before and the general consensus was that it didn't matter
here is a good thread on 8.8 tech
I can't wait to do my 8.8 swap!

[zj-monster]

I asked this before and the general consensus was that it didn't matter

Ooooooooooooook...looks like I'm gonna score me one then.

Damn good info...from J.U. of all places too!!

[metalman0285]

so does anyone have any info good/bad on this super 88 kit that superior axles has out (in petersons new edition)

[AprilzWarrior]

so does anyone have any info good/bad on this super 88 kit that superior axles has out (in petersons new edition)

Well, Ive been going around trying to get my Cromo Shafts from Superior and theres been a issue... and far as I know, as of today they will be a delay on the release of the 88 kit.


HAHA... Ill be glad when the day comes I sell my 88.


AW

[metalman0285]

well damn

[ILikeMud]

Ever have any problems with your spacers Jerod?

I don't know why but spacers scare me but it's something I'll have to deal with when running an 8.8.

[AprilzWarrior]

Ever have any problems with your spacers Jerod?

I don't know why but spacers scare me but it's something I'll have to deal with when running an 8.8.

Never, even to this day. You see HOW I did my spacers right ? Not the typical bolt on with studs. I think thats the main reason its still hanging in there. Good ARP studs is what take the load. The spacer is just sandwiched.


Jerod

[ILikeMud]

Yea, I think I'll end up running the same set up.
I've lost 30" when I was at stock height and it really sucked. I don't want to lose a 35" tire with 5" of lift, could be fairly dangerous.

[ELLLLLIOTTTTT]

definatley run spacers the way Jerod did. (longer high quality studs through the axle shaft). I have 1" aluminum spacers with crappy studs pressed into them and I think we all remember how things transpired when one decided to let go. Made for some good 3 wheel action.

[ILikeMud]

definatley run spacers the way Jerod did. (longer high quality studs through the axle shaft). I have 1" aluminum spacers with crappy studs pressed into them and I think we all remember how things transpired when one decided to let go. Made for some good 3 wheel action.

That's the shit I'm talking about.
Losing a wheel going down hill at 80 sucks!

[Sudz]

how i did mine

ARP studs with 5/8" thick aluminum spacer disk (had 'em black anodized)

[AprilzWarrior]

Sudz,
Everything looks so new and clean.... the there are those nasty calipers.... ???

AW

[Sudz]

those calipers add character

[Trusty]

What do you all think if I ran a 8.8 F150 (65" WMS) in the rear, and then ran 1" spacers/wheel pattern 5 on 5 to 5 on 5 1/2" on the front and changed wheels to the 5.5 pattern? I got a free 8.8 and was thinking that would be the way to go, then when I get a HP44, I can ditch the wheel spacers. See any problems doing this? Thanks

[AprilzWarrior]

What do you all think if I ran a 8.8 F150 (65" WMS) in the rear, and then ran 1" spacers/wheel pattern 5 on 5 to 5 on 5 1/2" on the front and changed wheels to the 5.5 pattern? I got a free 8.8 and was thinking that would be the way to go, then when I get a HP44, I can ditch the wheel spacers. See any problems doing this? Thanks

Go for it.

[Trusty]

sounds good!

[Cue-Ball]

Sudz,
Everything looks so new and clean.... the there are those nasty calipers.... ???

AW

Exactly

[DJJordache]

got any pointers on how you measured for the placement of the CA brackets that made it easier to locate the right spot for them on the 8.8? Did you find center first of both axles and then go from there or measure from the outside and subtract half the differance in axle widths and masure in to center?
I'm just trying to get an idea what I'm gonna do when I find my 8.8. I already have a spare set of brackets that I need to finish cutting off the d35 tubes and modifing for the 3.25" tubes. I found that 3" PVC thin wall is 3.25" OD, so I'm using that for bracket radius mockup until I get teh 8.8.
It's nice having a spare set of brackets so I'm in no real time crunch to get finished with the install

[JohnBoulderCO]

I started from the outside and measured "in" on both sides. That's how I got it centered. Trying to find the center, with the pumkin being offset, was giving me a headache.

[AprilzWarrior]

I started from the outside and measured "in" on both sides. That's how I got it centered. Trying to find the center, with the pumkin being offset, was giving me a headache.

Finding center is SUPER easy... clamp anything flat (like a 1' ruler)to each rotor, then run a string from each side and measure half way, and thats center (no matter how offset the center is). Then measure out from the center. Measuring from the outside in can screw you up if you forget the 5/8" difference in width on ANY of the mounts.

AW

[JohnBoulderCO]

The math wasn't hard, it was trying to get a good mark on the pumkin, or holding the tape still.....I just found it easier to measure in from the sides.

[nate]

Yeah that's all I did. Makes more sense to do it that way to me.

[DJJordache]

hey guys I got something more to add you can keep ABS with the 8.8!
the Jeep system is 4 sensor but is still 3 hydraulic (front L&R and ONE rear)

I have done it myself on my brothers 90XJ with a 8.8 and the ABS does still work and will do it again on my ZJ. I was going to go the route of the tone rings on each wheel (like Z did) but that is a pain and costly once you get bushings for the 8.8 shafts since the OD area on the 8.8 shafts is smaller in that spot than the d35.

how I KEPT the ABS working on his XJ and will do the same on my ZJ:
my ZJ tone rings are 54 tooth per side and the 8.8 has 108 teeth on the ring gear 54x2=108!
his 90 XJ tone rings are 51 tooth but we decided to try it this way anyway. and later found out that the sensor does not count the teeth but just either sees a tooth or not.

I took the angle grinder and ground down EVERY OTHER TOOTH on the 8.8 ring gear tone ring making it 54 teeth.
We then wired both the Jeep rear sensors together left and right reds together and the ford sensor red all together and then if I remember correctly the left and right Jeep wires were yellow and wire those to the other ford sensor wire.
finished the install and bleed the brakes, then took it for a spin. the ABS light came on at startup like usual and then went off like usual! and didnt come back on as if there was a problem. I then slammed on the brakes and YES the ABS was STILL WORKING without the ABS light comming on! and it has worked perfectly since we finished the install 2 weeks ago and the 8.8 with disks is a real nice upgrade in braking. The 8.8 was installed b/c with his stroker it blew up the D35 (broken spider gears, chewed ring and pinion, bent the cross-shaft and more)

as far as I know I'm the first to be able to CONFIRM that this way works for sure. at least it did on his Bendix ABS brake system. I will later do this again on my ZJ when I find the right 8.8 with 4.10's in the yards.

I can't wait to get it running in my ZJ but I have not found a 8.8 with 4.10's in the cheap yards near me where I can get it COMPLETE for about $100 in great shape too. I figure since I'm doing the work myself I might be able to pull off the whole swap under $300 for sure, but it's the little things that can add up quick.....

here is a SUPER TECHNICAL wiring diagram I just made up for those that like pictures=)

Keep in mind I also ground off every other tooth on the 8.8 tone ring to equal 54 teeth. And this for sure works on a 90 XJ ABS system, and will test is out on my ZJ hopefully soon

[Jim311]

That's pretty cool!