Thread: 8.8 Install in a ZJ

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  1. #26  
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    Mustang is 28 spline, no good

    EDIT - guess he says 31 spline, if that's right and you don't mind regearing.....
     

  2. #27  
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    How much are the 5/8" aluminum spacers?

    I checked out the Stagewest site, and the only spacers I could find were 1.5" and bigger, and they were pretty dang expensive...

    Are they just something you have to call them up and ask about?


    Also on a semi-related subject, does anyone have a part number for the specialty U-joint that adapts the explorer 1330 yoke to the Jeep 1310 drive shaft? (1310 on one side and 1330 on the other)

    I helped swap an 8.8 into my buddy's YJ this weekend and we were able to make the 1310 work enough for a test spin around the block, but for piece of mind, I know he'll want to do it right for the long term.
    I break stuff.
     

  3. #28  
    Senior Member Nordic1's Avatar
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    I got my adapters and brackets from MORE... they have the 1310 adapter.
     

  4. #29  
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepinHank
    How much are the 5/8" aluminum spacers?

    I checked out the Stagewest site, and the only spacers I could find were 1.5" and bigger, and they were pretty dang expensive...

    Are they just something you have to call them up and ask about?


    Also on a semi-related subject, does anyone have a part number for the specialty U-joint that adapts the explorer 1330 yoke to the Jeep 1310 drive shaft? (1310 on one side and 1330 on the other)

    I helped swap an 8.8 into my buddy's YJ this weekend and we were able to make the 1310 work enough for a test spin around the block, but for piece of mind, I know he'll want to do it right for the long term.


    Stagewest also does Machining, so call them and have it made.... like $40 each when I did it. Might be more now. The ones that are 1.5" and bigger have studs counter sunk into them. With the ones I got, I had to use longer wheel studs, IE removed the stock ones from the 8.8 shafts and pounded in the new ARPs...
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  5. #30  
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    Quote Originally Posted by AprilzWarrior
    Stagewest also does Machining, so call them and have it made.... like $40 each when I did it. Might be more now. The ones that are 1.5" and bigger have studs counter sunk into them. With the ones I got, I had to use longer wheel studs, IE removed the stock ones from the 8.8 shafts and pounded in the new ARPs...
    Cool, that's what I was thinking. Thanks for the clarification though!
    I break stuff.
     

  6. #31  
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading
    I got my adapters and brackets from MORE... they have the 1310 adapter.
    just snag a flange adaptor from a ranger. they have 1310 ujoints.
    98ZJ
     

  7. #32  
    Senior Member Jim311's Avatar
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    Hmm.. aren't the MORE brackets like 299? Anyone know of a cheap place to find them? I picked up a 31 spline 8.8 with discs for 200 bucks last weekend and now I'm looking into options. Should I just fab up my own instead?
    Quote Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
    it's a hobby that rarely makes good financial sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
    I can proudly say that I am one of the "OG's" of mutilating a perfectly good luxury SUV.
    1996 V8, Claytons, HP30/D44a locked, ARB, winch, WJ brakes and high steer, 33s, some body damage.
     

  8. #33  
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    When I swap out my turdy5 I'm either gonna fab some brackets or carefully cut off some of the stockers
     

  9. #34  
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaineZJ
    When I swap out my turdy5 I'm either gonna fab some brackets or carefully cut off some of the stockers

    That's what I'm thinking... it seems insane to pay 300 bucks for a set of brackets from Clayton, especially since I won't be trussing it or anything right away since I'm running shortarms. How hard could it be to cut some plate to fit? Am I missing something.. or does it seem really crazy to pay that much for it?
    Quote Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
    it's a hobby that rarely makes good financial sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
    I can proudly say that I am one of the "OG's" of mutilating a perfectly good luxury SUV.
    1996 V8, Claytons, HP30/D44a locked, ARB, winch, WJ brakes and high steer, 33s, some body damage.
     

  10. #35  
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    it is a conveinience factor. it would take the average shad-tree mechanic a good day or so to fab them at home with hand tools. if i didn't have access to a shear drill press and plasma cutter i would much rather buy the brakets for 300.00.
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  11. #36  
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    I don't have access to anything but a grinder and fairly basic tools. I guess it WOULD be a lot quicker and easier to just buy them, but considering I paid 200 bucks for the ENTIRE axle, 300 for just the brackets pains me.
    Quote Originally Posted by ATL ZJ
    it's a hobby that rarely makes good financial sense.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska ZJ
    I can proudly say that I am one of the "OG's" of mutilating a perfectly good luxury SUV.
    1996 V8, Claytons, HP30/D44a locked, ARB, winch, WJ brakes and high steer, 33s, some body damage.
     

  12. #37  
    Senior Member Grand Slam West Planner
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    Cutting brackets off a D 35 with an angle grinder is very difficult. I tried it and gave up - I think it was the spring mounts that gave me grief due to the curve of the axle shaft. Luckily I have a friend with a plasma cutter who helped tremendously. My point is, angle grinders aren't good at getting in tight spaces.
     

  13. #38  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z
    Cutting brackets off a D 35 with an angle grinder is very My point is, angle grinders aren't good at getting in tight spaces.
    It's doable, but my problem is jamming the disks and shattering them, almost killing myself.
     

  14. #39  
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    Quote Originally Posted by robselina
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaveZJ
    Quote Originally Posted by robselina
    WTF - what's with the plastic diff cover? Anyone else here get one this way? Thing seems supper weak, anyone know of a good replacement for cheap?
    A PLASTIC diff cover? WTF?!?!? Mine came with a metal one, but I promptly swapped it out for a Crane cover. Not a very cheap alternative, but it's beefy as fawk and that's what I wanted. I still have the stock cover I got if you're interested.
    yea, I'll take you up on that Dave. The freakin cover is some sort of plastic/composite with fibers in it. At first I thought "this diff cover kicks ass" as I see that the lower lip is reinforced. At first I thought it was cast steel. Then I start prying on the thing and it's freaking chipping at the edges 'cause it's made out of some fiber crap! :?
    Hey, i have the same thing...sort of. I pulled an 8.8 last winter out of an explorer and it has a metal cover (still a tin can). While i was at i thought hey why not get another cover off of an 8.8 in a ranger. Well they weren't the same. The other cover i pulled was this composite crap. Not only that, but i checked the other day and it's not the same size. maybe not an 8.8? i'd make sure you have 31 spline shafts... it looked similar but is not the same size.
    98ZJ
     

  15. #40  
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    Just wanted to leave some notes as long as they are fresh in my mine from doing my 8.8...

    -If you are planning on buying a bracket kit, just re-use your old coil buckets. MORE's coil buckets are HUGE and I ended up having to use 2 (and I might need a 3rd) coil retainer to keep the coil in the center. Most bracket kits are meant for TJ style coils which have a massive diameter.

    -Get Clayton style shock mounts (not stock style which I made the mistake of getting). Clayton's setup is a bolt welded to a piece of box tubing sortof like the upper shock mounts on the rear of ZJs.

    -If you rotate your control arm mounts up (i'll post pics when I get my cammera back) to make them *again* clayton style ish, make sure your driveshaft is long enough... yea long story short I was pissed that I couldn't drive home. We were going to mount the LCA mounts stock style'ish and the driveshaft would be plenty long. At the last second we rotated the control arm mounts up pushing the axle back like 1.5". The brackets came out trick but I ended up having to leave the ZJ there for the week till I could work on it again.

    -If you service an RE cartridge, pull out the hex retaining screw. Neither Jerod or I saw the screw and I FUCKED UP my re cartridge. It took him, myself and a 650 ft/lb impact to get the cartridge back together. The thing is cashed so I'll be ordering a new tri-link in the morn.

    -DO NOT BUY MORE SPACERS... Sockets couldn't fit into the holes to tighten the 1/2" tall lug nuts (Jerod had to pound them in to get them to fit), and it's worth getting something like a 1.25-1.5" spacer. I would like to recommend spydertrax here.

    -Think before you install the nipple for ARB fittings. I didn't say anything to the guy that did my gears so he installed the nipple at the 12 o lclock postion on the housing. I ended up making a trus for the tri-link out of tube (which turned out SUPER FUCKING SICK) but had I told the dude to mount the nipple else-where, it would have worked out a little easier.

    -Have a front sway bar installed (I don't, this will be a fun ride home).
     

  16. #41  
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    Anyone have a good link detailing the setup and specs for a gear install in an 8.8? I'll have someone with experience helping me when I do mine, but its always nice to know what's recommended in the FSM, etc.
    I break stuff.
     

  17. #42  
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    Alright, picked up a D44 out of a 87 XJ.. 3.63 and fricken drums. Figured out where i am getting my brakes. But i feel superior axle is rapeing me on the rebuild+ locker. So I like the 8.8 idea... so what do you think I can get price wise out of this D44?
     

  18. #43  
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    Well first, fill out your profile so people know where you are
     

  19. #44  
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    anyone know when 31 spline shafts began in the Exploders? Might be able to get a 92 for like $125
     

  20. #45  
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    Alaska has said before that all explorers are 31 spline and both the 91 or 92 one and the 98 that I have had are the same 31 spline.

    You can get wheel spacersfrom www.truckn.com for about 50 a pair. Don't know there quality but i'm pretty sure they'll work.

    Also all brake parts are interchangable between the drum and disk brake rears. Just unbolt the drums and bolt in the disk stuff.

    Often disk brake 8.8's are expensive but drums are dirt cheap. So find the all the brake stuff on ebay or another axle and swap it in.

    I'm using the more brakets on a current axle swap and its pure crap. Nothing fits worth bothering. Either use the old stuff or claytons or the sierra rock control stuff.

    I would suggest not using the clayton style shock mounts if you are 6" or less of lift. It puts the mounts too close together for a decent shock length. Only ~2" of uptravel..

    i only paid ~70 for all the brake stuff off ebay except the hard line and 125 for the axle.

    The old spring perches cn be cutoff the axle with an angle grider but you pretty much have to destroy the axle to do it. ie remove all the brake hardware shafts cutoff the sway bar mounts then get the perches off.
    hp30, 8.8, long arms, chevy steering, 6" lift, 35 mtrs, 231, locked SOLD
     

  21. #46  
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    Okay, brakes.....

    on the 89-95 explorer 8.8s with drums, what do we need to get the brakes plumbed? As far as I can tell, I should be able to use my stock ZJ soft line to the axle, then just get new hardlines from NAPA with the appropriate flared fittings on each end or am I missing something?

    Also, what have you guys worked out for the e-brake? My explorer seems to have one brake line that's compatible with the existing hardware on the ZJ, then other e-brake line is just threaded at the end and I haven't figured out exactly what to do with it yet....


    / rant

    This axle is just ticking me off. It's my own damn fault for being overly ambitious and wanting to setup my own gears, locker, make the diff cover, my own wheel spacers etc, but I just keep getting hung up on minor shit, mostly my own fault...the great move of the day was to put the lunchbox in and forget that it's a C clip axle so I can't do it on the bench :roll: now I get to pull it out and start again reading the dirrections this time.... If I can just get this thing 'done' and ready to go in today except for the brackets I'll be happy. That way next weekend I can pull the 35 , take the necessary measurements and then move the brackets over....

    / end rant
     

  22. #47  
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    I cant speak on the Drums but the Disk brake Backing Plate has the same exact mounts that were on a disked ZJ, so Ebrakes were very simple, just reconnect them.



    AW
     

  23. #48  
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    Jarod,

    Do you have a picture of your brakeline routing?? and where are you working now?, give me a call

    Thanks

    Scott
     

  24. #49  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vonzipper
    Jarod,

    Do you have a picture of your brakeline routing?? and where are you working now?, give me a call

    Thanks

    Scott
    all the pics of the 8.8 are posted in this thread already. You can run your brake lines wherever you like... so long as they dont get hung up on anything...


    Jerod
    Last edited by AprilzWarrior; 01-18-2006 at 02:26 AM.
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  25. #50 Re: 8.8 install in a Grand 
    Senior Member zj-monster's Avatar
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    Holy cow...I'm back to bring threads from the dead again!

    I was doing a search on car-part.com for 8.8's and was taken back when given a selection from either the 6 or 8 cylinder Explorers. I don't see any reason to believe that there is a difference but I'll ask just for my and anyone else's education.

    Is there a difference in these axles between the 6 & 8 cylinder Explorers? Both 6's & 8's offer 3.55's, 3.73's, & 4.10's with disc brakes.
    Last edited by zj-monster; 07-26-2006 at 11:05 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by CurtP View Post
    What a fucking concept, eh? How dare you bring logic to this thread. What are you, some kind of asshole?
     

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