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07-07-2004, 08:59 PM
Installing a Ford 8.8 axle into a Jeep Grand Cherokee
Started by stripping off the 8.8s leaf spring brackets
Stripping down the tubes to get them as clean as possible.
I Ground down the housing & TIG welded the tubes completely...
I set the pinion at 11* and the Spring Perches 0*
Spring Perch welded...
UCA Supported and welded with 3/16” plate for gussets to keep them from twisting or bending under stress.
Hammerite Paint found at Home Depot, I used 2 cans.
Since I had a new axle assembly, the caliper and rotors came with it, but not the brake lines. I picked up an extended rear brake line from a Rubicon Express vendor, P/N RE1515 and I purchased a Ford Explorer disc brake conversion hose kit from Currie Enterprises, P/N 6013, it comes with hoses, banjo bolts, and weld on retaining clips to hold the end of the line in place on the axle tubes. From here I hand bent all of my brake lines down the tubes and over the Center section. You will also need the adapter flange for the Drive shaft to the Pinion Spicer P/N 2-2-1379. Flange bolts are also needed which are 12mm x 1.75 thread 12 point, Ford P/N N800594-S100, or go down the OSH and pick them up in grade 8.
The 8.8 is 5/8” narrower per side than the D35C, so I ordered Wheel Studs from ARP.
These studs are too long and to be cut down about 3/8“ to get the correct length with a 5/8“Aluminum wheel spacer. The Knurl is also a hair to big to fit into the 31spline shafts, I put the bolts into a drill press to spin them much like a lathe and took a file to the Knurl, you must be careful here as to not take the knurl down to small, ideally you want the knurl .005” larger than the hole its going into for a nice pressed fit. Pull the cross shaft out of the carrier and push the axle shafts into the center and pull each ones C-clip, then slide each shaft out. I took the shaft to a vise and knocked out the factory bolts with a hammer, once the knurl is turned down hammer them into the shafts completely to seat them, you could also use a lug nut and an impact to pull the stud into its seat.
Once the studs are in reinstall the axles, C-clips and Cross shaft. Reinstall the Rotors and now for the spacers.
Finally I put the wheels and tires back on, and torque them down, then I took an angle cut off wheel and knocked off the ends of the studs easily.
After thoughts,
This is the best MOD to my Jeep YET. The 35C leaves you so unsettled when wheeling its not even funny. Knowing what I have out back and let me enjoy myself much more off-road.
Thanks for viewing…
AprilzWarrior
Links:
Spacers: http://www.stagewest4x4.com/
Studs: http://www.arp-bolts.com/
8.8: http://www.arielgears.com/
Locker/Gears: http://www.ring-pinion.com/
Brake Parts:
http://alljeepproducts.com/
http://www.currieenterprises.com/
Originally Posted by DankNesS
when you omit the rear ABS sensors, does the ABS sensor come on? check engine light? I assume the front still operates normally?
As soon as you get rid of any ABS sensor you lose ABS completely.
cool. I don't really care, it's a POS system anyway.
The stupid ABS light on all the time then? (might have to disconnect that thing, it'll drive me nuts!)
Seen lots of people put 8.8's in the grands and TJ's.
Just wondering why they are so great? Why not use 44's or 9's
Any place of reference to find one with disc's and 3.73's
It's more convienent than a 9" because the width is very similar.
It's also ever so slightly stronger than a 44, and can usually be obtained cheaper. Ever priced an XJ or TJ 44? :shock: I paid 1/3 to 1/2 for my 8.8 as what I see XJ and TJ 44's go for.
They're close to right length for starters, only 1" narrower than stock. They're also plentiful and the right bolt pattern. Not many narrow 9" axles were made, and they're priced as if they were made out of gold. D44s out of TJs and XJs are fawkin' expensive, and these are 31 vs 30 spline and larger pinion (weak link on D44) so it's a better deal. you can also get them with discs which is cool....short version is that they're the right size, strong, cheap and plentiful.
as for 3.73s and discs, discs are stock on all explorer variants from 96 and up. 3.73s are the standard ratio too, though there are other options...
1 1/4" Narrower than the stock 35C
Hence I added 5/8" spacers to each side.
HTH
AW
Pulling the ABS Fuse and Relay will get the light to go off...
AW.. Did you have rear disk already ? If not did you change the proportioning valve? Just wondering...
Oh and Nice work..
Carl
Carl,
I already had disks... but I have done the Drum Disk swap on a ZJ. Some dude who wanted a better 35C :lol:
why ? :?:
Got a question :?: :wink:
Well... SInce I have disk now... If I put a drum 8.8 on will I need to change my proportioning valve or would it be ok? I already have some stuff ordered to do the disk swap on this 8.8 so I guess it doesnt really matter..
But, I will be driving for a week with drums ..While waiting for the stuff from Jegs..
I know that this valve makes it bias towards the rear more than a drum brake setup does ..
I guess my real question is do you think I will have trouble stopping??
Any idea at all??
IIRC correctly the disc and drum ZJ used the same prop valve anyways.
I too remember it this way. Carl, you ordered your disks from Jegs ? Shit even a D35C disks would have worked for ya.
I just thought it was time I spent some money on my rig other than sawzall blades and welding rods / wire.... :lol: :lol: So I ordered some nice
Wilwood stuff...
I want to look cool while I am mall crawlin....... :lol: :lol:
any reason not to use steel for wheelspacers? I always see them made out of aluminum. I guess it reduces spun weight, but for a 5.8" thick 6.5" diameter rig, I'm not to worried. thoughts?
Aluminum is light, easy to mill and steel isn't really neseccary.
fair enough....I was going to get 7" steel round stock, but I guess I'll spend the extra $18 for Aluminum. Crap metal is expensive lately. Just enough round stock to make both spacers is going to cost me $27! :? :x
WTF - what's with the plastic diff cover? Anyone else here get one this way? Thing seems supper weak, anyone know of a good replacement for cheap?
A PLASTIC diff cover? WTF?!?!? Mine came with a metal one, but I promptly swapped it out for a Crane cover. Not a very cheap alternative, but it's beefy as fawk and that's what I wanted. I still have the stock cover I got if you're interested.
yea, I'll take you up on that Dave. The freakin cover is some sort of plastic/composite with fibers in it. At first I thought "this diff cover kicks ass" as I see that the lower lip is reinforced. At first I thought it was cast steel. Then I start prying on the thing and it's freaking chipping at the edges 'cause it's made out of some fiber crap! :?A PLASTIC diff cover? WTF?!?!? Mine came with a metal one, but I promptly swapped it out for a Crane cover. Not a very cheap alternative, but it's beefy as fawk and that's what I wanted. I still have the stock cover I got if you're interested.
Thinking of adding a bigger anchor to the rear of the Grand... $100 for an 8.8 sound like a deal?
8.8 out of an explorer? If its a mustang, be certain that its 31 spline shafts and not the others (27 spline?)
Disks or drums? Not saying an 8.8 with drums for a hundred bucks is a bad deal, but if you want disks, factor in the cost of that conversion. You may be better off looking some more and seeing what you can get one with disks for.
If its got disks already then disregard the above paragraph.
I PM'd the guy asking what exactly the specs are on it... just waiting now
yea, sounds good to me too as long as its from an explorer. I don't give a rats ass about disks though, I think they're over-rated. The non-explorer variety are 28 spline BTW.....
I've still got it. It's from a Mustang (same width as an Explorer). Shouldn't matter in your application as you will need to change brackets anyway.
Same for gearing, this has 3:27, but you'll probably be changing that too.
No brakes on it. Set up for disc. Mustang, Explorer brakes will work.
31 spline with Trac Lock. And it has less than 200 miles on it.
Let me know if your interested...$100.00
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