Thread: Tapered hole for TRE's

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  1. #1 Tapered hole for TRE's 
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    ok how important is it to have a properly tapered hole for the 1 ton tres? i mean i'v seen some guys running them in a straight through whole. iv seem some people run them in a hole that isn't tapered enough. whats the deal i knwo that ideally you want it to be tapered but does it really have to be?

    answers. i need answers.
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    Senior Member Alaska ZJ's Avatar
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    Answer 1. Do it right the first time you half ass bastard.

    Answer 2. There are two things you NEVER skimp on. Steering and Brakes.

    Answer 3. It might work for awhile but eventually it is gonna screw something up.

    Reamers are like 35 bucks. Just do it right.

    If you can't afford the reamer. Go with hiems. straight hole. The wear out pretty fast and are noisy as hell on the street some, but it is an option.
    "Saddam Hussein has been engaged in the development of weapons of mass destruction technology which is a threat to the countries in the region and he has made a mockery of the weapons inspection process. The responsibility of the United States in this conflict is to eliminate weapons of mass destruction, to minimize the danger to our troops and to diminish the suffering of the Iraqi peole." - Nancy Pelosi circa 1998

    And your rebuttal Ms. Communist bitch?
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  3. #3  
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    basssstid. ya i figured as much. but i was just askin. got my "1 ton" tre today. this so called one tom set up that Nbaldwin did is only a 3/4 ton set up. i was looking through the book today. the 1 ton is not much bigger but just incase you were wondering. i'm goin gto get the 1 ton part numbers for you guys when i do my 3/4 ton stearing done. the not half ass way.
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  4. #4  
    Senior Member LouisianaZJ's Avatar
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    the tapered hole will allow the tre to mount much tighter in the hole.

    oh yeah, dont use those castle nuts or cotter pins either, they are just rice accesories (edit: insert sarcasm here)

    Id say if it was o/r only and you trailered it you would be fine, but I would not half ass it if you plan on DD it.
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    Senior Member GSSW Planner chadjans's Avatar
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    Castle nuts and cotter pins are rice? Never thought I would hear that. I go along with Brentt's theory. Don't skimp. Never thought castle nuts were expensive.

    Chad
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  6. #6  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kraqa
    . this so called one tom set up that Nbaldwin did is only a 3/4 ton set up. i was looking through the book today. the 1 ton is not much bigger but just incase you were wondering. i'm goin gto get the 1 ton part numbers for you guys when i do my 3/4 ton stearing done. the not half ass way.
    i don't remember calling it '1 ton'. i just called it chevy inverted t steering. the tie rods that i have are used on an 85 chevy blazer so i would not consider that 1 ton.
    nathan
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  7. #7  
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    i have seen a few write ups with the same part # claiming it to be 1 ton stearing.

    http://www.redjeepclub.com/steering.php
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  8. #8  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kraqa
    i have seen a few write ups with the same part # claiming it to be 1 ton stearing.

    http://www.redjeepclub.com/steering.php
    Yeah, after seeing a couple writeups claiming 1 ton, I just assumed it was, but when I check the part #, indeed, your right, Blazer part number. Aint a Blazer a 1/2 ton? Im going to change my sig.

    Anyways, seems like its very important to have the correct taper. VERY. I hear about people using the Snapon cleanup (not a reamer) but its 7 degrees, not the 7.125 or 7.128 degrees that the 1.5"/foot reamers is. However, its more of a difference then you might think. I have a 7 degree end mill for the CNC that I wish I could use, and was tempted to for the temporary, but like Alaska said, the last thing you should be cutting corners on is the steering.
    '94 V8, 37s, Clayton 4-link, locked 44/9", 1ton histeer, extd whlbase, 231, plenty of other junk - SOLD BIATCH!
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    Senior Member nathaniel's Avatar
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    Its the same part #'s for an 85 1 ton chevy at least 2 of the #'s havent checked the others yet 2026 2027
    hp30, 8.8, long arms, chevy steering, 6" lift, 35 mtrs, 231, locked SOLD
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  10. #10  
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    i was looking through the book at the parts store. and they are the same part number for up to the 3/4 ton in this book the one tone had difrent part numbers.

    the thing that scares me is that the TRE that has the whole in it for the drag link is actually ment for the stearing stabilizer. not the drag link. that part cost me $74.00 CDN. that identical part (except much beefier) for a chevey 3500 HD is actually like 120.00 CDN and it is alot bigger. i bought the 2233L but i think i'm going to return it for the 3500HD TRE actually ment for the TRE to connect to it.
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  11. #11  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kraqa
    i was looking through the book at the parts store. and they are the same part number for up to the 3/4 ton in this book the one tone had difrent part numbers.

    the thing that scares me is that the TRE that has the whole in it for the drag link is actually ment for the stearing stabilizer. not the drag link. that part cost me $74.00 CDN. that identical part (except much beefier) for a chevey 3500 HD is actually like 120.00 CDN and it is alot bigger. i bought the 2233L but i think i'm going to return it for the 3500HD TRE actually ment for the TRE to connect to it.
    I havent heard of anyone busting the 2233L because they were using the SS hole for a TRE. This is like the most popular steering upgrade, and its hardened aint it?
    '94 V8, 37s, Clayton 4-link, locked 44/9", 1ton histeer, extd whlbase, 231, plenty of other junk - SOLD BIATCH!
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  12. #12  
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    havn't herd of anyone bustin it either. i mean it is still going to be under load as it is a integral part of your tie rod. and it does see the same forces are the rest of the TRE's except it is just being pushed my the drag link so i would think that it would have a tendance to want to twist (sorta) i don't know exactly yet what i'm doing with my stearing. i want 1 ton. cause i really wana beet on this. but i'm thinking the 2233L should hold up fine.
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