Newbie building a 95 zj

[Parker_]

I wish there was an easy way to move the steering box forward. I have pushed the axle as far forward as I can with the track bar just clearing the pitman arm. I think I need to go forward a little more to clear the inner fender.

curious how far forward we’re u allowed to go ?


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[Ken L]

Nice!

You'll want to make a shroud around the fan. The idea is to get most of the air moving thru the radiator; the way you have it now the only air moving thru the radiator is the stuff directly in front of the fan. I know just that seems like a lot of surface area, but trust me, you need most of the radiator shrouded. Especially if it gets hot (California) and you spend any time at all either in traffic or in 4-low.

Sorry it's taken me so long to get you a bump stop measurement. I have 2 1/2" of up travel in both the front and the rear. I bought extended bump stops when I bought my lift years ago. You can probably still buy some individually. I believe Prothane has them for both front and rear. I know the front ones I have are Prothane. The rear ones fit in the stock cups and are extra-long, and I also welded a 1 1/2" square tube on top of the axle to limit up travel even more, thus the 2 1/2" of up travel. The fronts attach with a bolt in the center. Honestly, like I said before, I have never lacked practical travel on the trail.

[Parker_]

Nice!

You'll want to make a shroud around the fan. The idea is to get most of the air moving thru the radiator; the way you have it now the only air moving thru the radiator is the stuff directly in front of the fan. I know just that seems like a lot of surface area, but trust me, you need most of the radiator shrouded. Especially if it gets hot (California) and you spend any time at all either in traffic or in 4-low.

Sorry it's taken me so long to get you a bump stop measurement. I have 2 1/2" of up travel in both the front and the rear. I bought extended bump stops when I bought my lift years ago. You can probably still buy some individually. I believe Prothane has them for both front and rear. I know the front ones I have are Prothane. The rear ones fit in the stock cups and are extra-long, and I also welded a 1 1/2" square tube on top of the axle to limit up travel even more, thus the 2 1/2" of up travel. The fronts attach with a bolt in the center. Honestly, like I said before, I have never lacked practical travel on the trail.

Hey Ken , I started a cardboard shroud today for a template just didn’t take a picture . But yeah totally on the same page about airflow . As far as bumps . I def Need to get something going on . 2-1/2 “ of up travel and do you do any crawling ? Are we measuring from center of axle to frame st ride height then axle to frame at full tuck to get these numbers ?


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[Parker_]

For side tracked and changed some injectors in my Duramax , but did manage to finish trimming the front up some in sight of stretching it . I think a 1-1/2 is gonna be enough but I’m gonna “mock up “ the axle at 2” and see how she looks . Looking a little better
Whoever owned it before me the core support upon removal was cracked to Hell in like 6spots so going to the junkyard tomorrow to grab another off a zj . But I think it’s def gonna give me some added clearance

Ona side note does anyone know what the hell these items do? Can I delete them ?


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[Yjsaabman717]

The first item looks like the cruise control actuator. It uses engine vacuum to hold the throttle in position. There should have been a cable to the throttle body off the pointy end. If you won't need/use the cruise control, toss it.

The second item is the charcoal canister for the emissions system. The charcoal canister, oth, is a good thing to keep. Being a 95 you don't have to worry as much about a check engine light, but being in smog nazi Cali, I would be very hesitant to remove any type of emissions equipment if you plan on having it be street legal.

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[Parker_]

The first item looks like the cruise control actuator. It uses engine vacuum to hold the throttle in position. There should have been a cable to the throttle body off the pointy end. If you won't need/use the cruise control, toss it.

The second item is the charcoal canister for the emissions system. The charcoal canister, oth, is a good thing to keep. Being a 95 you don't have to worry as much about a check engine light, but being in smog nazi Cali, I would be very hesitant to remove any type of emissions equipment if you plan on having it be street legal.

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Gotcha ! I reg everything in az I’m on the border . On that charcoal can do I have to plug the lines or do anything with them or can I just remove em


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[Parker_]

Scored this today free 99


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[Yjsaabman717]

Here's a good discussion on keeping vs. deleting the charcoal canister. Personally? I would try to keep it.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo...r/38291/page1/

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[Parker_]

Well I took it out tonight and didn’t run into any other issues other then

(1) roof mounted light bar is horrendous , I can’t see shit other then the hood .
(2) the shocks as some of us were discussing are def wrong . Even more so now after driving bottoms out like crazy . I know it’s my shock location or my shock and my location but yeah .
(3) heater for some reason doesn’t work so gotta figure that out as well , but it was honestly fun climbed a little mountain and cruised some washes in the rain just got a few bugs to work out

That picture is my stroke at ride height

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[Ken L]

Hey Ken , I started a cardboard shroud today for a template just didn’t take a picture . But yeah totally on the same page about airflow . As far as bumps . I def Need to get something going on . 2-1/2 “ of up travel and do you do any crawling ? Are we measuring from center of axle to frame st ride height then axle to frame at full tuck to get these numbers ?


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Measured from the bottom of the bump stop to the top of whatever is underneath it. In front it's the coil cup, in the back it's the piece of 1 1/2" square stock that I welded to the top of the axle to limit up travel. And yes, rock crawling and trails of that nature is all we do in Colorado.

[Ken L]

Regarding you two mystery items, the top one is the controller for your cruise control. if you don't want cruise, take it out. The bottom one looks like the charcoal canister--was it located behind the bumper by the front tire? Mine on my 96 looks different, and it's been sitting in the garage for 15 years at least. Just hook the lines together.

[Parker_]

So after doing some home work I’m gonna incorporate these style shock boxes in the rear and run a removable cross member inside with a ice chest rack and slide my 35” spare underneath it


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[Yjsaabman717]

So for the light bar, have you tried re-aiming it? Aiming it a bit higher may help with that. (Just a suggestion, I don't have one. Have thought about it, though.)

As for the heater...does it not make heat? Or does the fan not blow?

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[Parker_]

So for the light bar, have you tried re-aiming it? Aiming it a bit higher may help with that. (Just a suggestion, I don't have one. Have thought about it, though.)

As for the heater...does it not make heat? Or does the fan not blow?

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Heater just doesnt make heat . They light bar I fixed I brought it up and moved the brackets down a little on the window . Waaay better


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[Yjsaabman717]

Coolant level is the first basic check.

Next check both heater hoses at the heater core and see if they are both getting hot. If one side is considerably colder the heater core is likely blocked. This can be at least temporarily remedied by back flushing the system (from the cold side to the hot side).

Last would be to check the temperature control motor on the HVAC housing and the control head operation. Does yours have manual or auto climate control?

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