Project Hippo

[Yjsaabman717]

so many broken pics...
I was just trolling through trying to get build inspiration and ^~~~~~~~~^*

Pretty sure the broken ones are doubles of the ones you can see.

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[Tuzmaster]

I switched from photobucket to imgur as hosting service at some point so early pics may not come through but newer ones should I thought.

I finally got some time to put into this beast and got minor work done.
1) Pushed the front axle forward .5 ish of an inch. Since I have memory of gold fish, wound up calling Clayton and the guy said that there are 12 threads per inch. So after rotating the Johny joint 5 times, but it back on. Putting some grease on those big bolts really helps the bolts come out easy.
2) Now we get to the fun part. Started with the brakes. Got an almost complete brake. The person forgot to put the washers for the hose lines in :/ figures. Oh well, I'll get those tomorrow. Got new stainless steel braid lines too because the ones provided by Clayton are slightly too short at full droop and wheel lock. New ones are about 4 inches longer. May be more. The new calipers are massive. Rotors are same size. Basically the only major difference is now there are 2 pistons instead of 1. This was basically a bolt on.
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3) Another thing I realized finally is where my coolant leak is coming from. It looks like from the pump where the bearring is. Would also explain why heater is kinda crappy, but I never had any overheating problems. So need a new water pump too. Hope NAPA has a genuine mopar part cause advanced one is crap.
4) Moving onto the steering set up. I know now why the pump was acting funny. The pulley has a "Mercedes" crack that goes all the way through the pulley, but somehow still holds on. Found that out after all the parts are bought and pump is out. cant win. The cracks are hairline, but they are there
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As for the high pressure vs low pressure line, here are easy ways to tell the difference.
i) low pressure line has clamps on it that would not be able to hold much of pressure anyway.
ii)High pressure line is physically higher off the ground than the low pressure line. Neat little detail.
After a lot of "unicorn pee" (JB80 cause dam that stuff is expensive) and this tool:
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got the steering gearbox out along with the pump. Pump is held by 3 13mm bolts while gearbox was 4 18mm bolts. Glad is went kinda easy.

Another neat detail about WJ's that I am not sure about on Zjs and XJs. On WJs the steering gearbox location on the frame is already kinda braced. There are metal cylindical guides or washers i guess or inserts, that are welded to the unibody frame and help strengthen that area
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Some good progress today in my opinion. Next is the water pump change, new power steering pump install with gearbox and new high pressure line from whistler bearring here in the Springs. Hope to finish that by monday night

[Stealth Crawler ZJ]

Pretty sure the broken ones are doubles of the ones you can see.

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I can only see about 10 total in the thread and that’s a ways back
And they all look just like this

[Yjsaabman717]

I'm seeing the broken image icon, then an image right below that. Viewing through Tapatalk, not a PC, though.

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[Tuzmaster]

I'm seeing pics on tapatalk. Try chrome on PC? I dont have issues there on any of the pcs I use

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[Tuzmaster]

Welp not much to show as an update. Did a water pump change, installed the new steering gearbox and broke a steel hex wrench onto an aluminum bolt... so much for that. That bolt was for bleeding the cooling system and now it seems to be completely seized in there. Have you guys found a way around this?

In other news, the pump i got from the dealer has a broken return line hole. Hopefully they can get a new one here soon.

So the plan for now is to mount the steering cooler, bleed the cooling system, brakes and power steering system. After that its quaterpanel armor install, polishing headlights, radio, speakers, Hi-Lift mount for the roof, finishing the rear trunk shelf I've built, paracord oh-crap handles and may be a rear window storage (not sure on that yet) . Not sure whats worth posting, but the armor pics will come, how the cooler was mounted and the final pics of the shelf.

Let me know if you guys want to know anything in particular detail, I'll put it up.

[Yjsaabman717]

I never touch those bleeder screws anymore. I've had too many tear the threads out of the aluminum. My solution? I use a vacuum filler system, now. It uses shop air to draw a vacuum on the cooling system (also great for checking for leaks) and then it has a hose that you dunk in the new coolant and it uses the vacuum to suck the coolant in. Why they couldn't just make the fill point the highest point in the system...

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[Tuzmaster]

Do you have a part number for this vacuum system? Or a drawing or something?

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[Yjsaabman717]

Here's the Airlift universal which is proven and reasonably priced. Google did show some super inexpensive Chinese ones, but I'm not sure how much I would trust them. I use a Mac Tools one that uses direct fit adapters to the fill cap. The vacuum system isn't that expensive, but the cap adapter kit sure is! Fortunately they all work with my pressure tester, too.

https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-...a-435688359104

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[Tuzmaster]

So you connect this to an air compressor and it creates a vacuum? I dont have a vacuum pump. Does it still require the radiator cap adapter?

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[Yjsaabman717]

Yes, you connect it to your air hose from your compressor and it draws a vacuum on the cooling system.

No, you do not need any other adapters with that unit.

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[Tuzmaster]

Another little update. got the power steering cooler mounted and lines routed. The mounts will be painted black to make them be a little bit more inconspicuous.
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The left bracket was a little bit more complicated with the bends, but after some hammering it got into the shape needed.

Also got the new brakes hooked up and bled. The new front JK stainless steel brake lines bolted right up. Added plumber's tape to the threads ( I think thats what it's called, the white tape to put on pipe threads). They feel much better than the old ones. Hopefully tonight I can bleed the power steering and coolant.

Any advice on how to bleed the power steering? The steering gearbox came with instructions to remove the ignition module and crank the engine over a few times and move the steering wheel left to right a few times to get the fluid going. I was thinking of just starting the engine and watching the level and the fluid is pumped through. What do you all think?

[Ken L]

You need to rotate the wheel a bit to get the fluid flowing all the way thru the system, otherwise it's just sitting in the pump and not making it to the gear box. You'll see a crap ton of bubbles in the reservoir. When there are a lot of bubbles, you won't be able to see progress, so you'll want to shut 'er down and let it sit for a while, then start the process again. If you do drive it when there are a lot of bubbles, you'll accelerate wear on the pump and gear box, as the bubbles are from what's called "cavitation" and that is bad in a hydraulic system. Shouldn't take too long to bleed it though.

[Tuzmaster]

No picture update this time. Just tidied up the jeep and went for a drive. Steering is great. Though when I open the pump reservoir there are still bubbles but they go away withing a 2 minutes. Is that normal?

The brakes are eh. They seem to stop but the pedal is little squeeshy. Also after drive, with the engine off, I have to pump the brakes once before they really engage. To me it seems like air in the lines still so I'll bleed the again on Sunday.

On the other side pushing the axle forward doesnt make it rub anymore.

So, next on the agenda is bleed brakes again, keep an eye on coolant and power steering fluid, fix the wire in the driver door jam, polish headlights and start installing quaterpanel armor

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[Tuzmaster]

Okay so after using power bleeder on the brakes they still feel funny. Seems like master cylinder is due and so is booster while I'm in there. How do you guys del with the bleeding through abs? I know people pull the module out, but I'd like to keep mine in for now.

On the other hand the steering is fantastic with new pump and gearbox

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[Tuzmaster]

Another update. Got the quaterpanel armor on. I see why people hate nutserts. They are a great idea that sometimes doesn't execute very well. As for the armor, it didnt match the body curve as well as i'd hoped it would. Perhaps it would have been better to try and custom fit the armor better myself, but with the rub rail there, it seems almost impossible. So as long as you dont go poking around in the gap it looks okay. Speaking of nutserts, 1 on passenger side is now a "security" nut and 2 on driver. The nutserts are spinning with the bolt and you can't get pliers in there. Perhaps if I take the inner plastic out, Ill deal with them in time. Here are some pics
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Tonight I want to try and bleed the steering some more. When idling and not moving it feels heavy still. Also if i move the tires all the way to one side and then all the way to the other while stationary it gets really heavy. Any idea what else it could be?

Next on the repair/mod list:
-Brake master cylinder and booster. Just going with stock replacements. Will see how bleeding goes with the abs still installed
-paracord "oh Sh*t" handles
-Hi Lift mount to the roof rails. I do not want a full roof rack, so some big bolts and metal to mount the jack outside
-finish the trunk shelf. it just needs paint and better wooden top

In a week or so, Ill be going to China wall and Eagle rock. Those are easy enough trails to test before the holly cross trip in august. I am hoping to do chinaman's gulch also before august, but will see if I have time. I'll probably post some pictures, especially if you all are interested.
-perhaps extra window storage. The Family Wagon shelfs looks awesome and want to do something like that

[OverkillZJ]

Those quarter panels are pretty cool.

[Yjsaabman717]

You may want to consider applying some sort of RTV or sealant along the edges of the quarter armor. It will keep the dirt and moisture from collecting and rubbing between the two which can cause rust.

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[Tuzmaster]

That's a good idea. Anything in particular? Chalking?

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[Yjsaabman717]

Make sure it's an exterior caulking, and/or paintable. Paintable means you can paint it to blend in. Outdoor means it will be UV stable and won't break down too quickly.

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[Tuzmaster]

Had my first "field repair". Dam starter went out while I was at work. Thought of towing it back home on a strap when I realized that with no power steering there is no way in hell to turn those 35s. So, 260 dollars later and about 30 minutes, jeep is back driving. Meantime the starter is completely dead. Like give it power and it just sits there dead. Suppose it beats being stranded out in the middle of bfe.

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[Tuzmaster]

Been working on little things. Got the grill painted and headlights polished. Those kits are a really nice way to save money. Here is the grill result and before polishing
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After polishing
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Also removed the CD (what are those? people still use them???) changer that was in the rear trunk area and turned into a stock cubby hole for the small first aid kit and some small stuff. come to find out, its only held by 4 screws and 4 nuts. Now there is extra little storage. Here are their location
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My fiance wanted to help with hippo so she is making me new oh shit handles out of parachord. I supplied her with the tabs and she is doing the actual knitting. Gonna use some self tappers to hold them in place. Should make it easier for people to get in and out.

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Next on the agenda is to do the high lift mount for the roof. It will be some form of a thing that clamps to the roof rails on top. I do not want a roof rack on top of the jeep yet.

[Tuzmaster]

I want to ask opinion of the pros. Power tank or ARB twin piston air compressor?
I got a cheapo compressor to air up tires and twice it has proven to be crappy. In both cases its just taking forever. First time I was cold and second time i got soaked. All I really need to do is air up tires. My lockers are electric so I don't need compressor for that
There seems to be pros and cons of both. Power tank is faster, and can run air tools need be and doesn't generate heat and no power needed, and portable. Downside is its bigger, and needs to be refilled every so often. The ARB compressor is smaller, and with extra air tank can run power tools too, no fill up needed. Downside is it needs battery/running engine, not portable, heat generation and slower.
Price wise they seem to be running about the same once you get the full kit, so what are your guy's opinions?

[Ken L]

I have a York OBA system, and I like it a lot. But I have an air locker, and it gets used for that in addition to filling tires and air tool duty. My York system, specifically the tank, takes up as much room as a Powertank. I have the tank mounted in zone 3.

[Tuzmaster]

What's zone 3?

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