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So my wife's 04 Durango is getting read to take a dump. So I'm like yes time to get another Jeep. Budget is tight so I'm looking for a decent WJ. I've looked at about 8-9 before I came across this one. It's a 2002 Sport w/4.0 and 242.
The body has 279,XXX, but the engine and transmission were both changed by a dealership at around 175,000 (I haven't seen documents but the engine runs well and the trans feels good and my son pulled a big envelope of receipts and whatnot out of the glove box that I have yet to review). When I go to look at it it's raining and cold and I'm rushing to beat someone else coming to look later. I roll around in the mud and find the inner rockers rotted. Everything else seems fine so he knocks off a few hundred because if the rockers and I'm on my way.
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So the WJ sat in the driveway from noon Thursday when I got it home until about one o'clock today (Friday was getting it added to insurance, transferring title and plates). I take it out to do a few errands and take it to the O'Reilly Auto parts I work at to scan it because it has an airbag light. On the way I had to make a hard stop on a bumpy road and the ABS worked as intended. So I hook up the scanner expecting a SRS code because there are no other lights. I get an SRS, 4 ABS, and 4 ECM. SRS code is for a front sensor. The previous owner had used the Jeep to push his ram 3500 dually into the garage while working on it, thus crushing the bumper cover. I think it's feasible this caused the light so I cleared the code and I'll see if it comes back. The ABS worked and the light isn't on so I just cleared those codes as well probably just history codes. On to the ECM several evap codes (don't those come standard with all Jeep's over 5 years old). There was also a code for the charging system. I go back in and grab the hand held unit and test the battery. It says battery is good but needs a charge. Next the starter. Starter is good. Finally the alternator. Voltage regulator Fail. So I finish my errands and come home to see this in the driveway where the front of the Jeep had been for only two days.
That's a big spot of engine oil for only two days. I'm starting to have buyers remorse, but I gotta make dinner.
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After dinner I pull the alternator, and boy oh boy it didn't want to come out. I run it up to O'Reilly and wouldn't you know it the alternator is fine. With the Jeep running I was only seeing 13.6 volts. So now I have a PCM on order that I will have to take in to the stealership and pay to get flashed to my vehicle. I still haven't managed to get under there and try to find the source of the oil yet. Or figured out why the check engine light doesn't work. I should have kept looking and not bought a Jeep in the rain. I was rushing to get my wife something more reliable and she can't even drive it yet. I've also found about four dents I missed in the rain too.
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I know I could just put an external voltage regulator on and call it done, but it's for the wife and she drives the kids. I don't want to risk some other part of the PCM flaking too.
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Investigating why there is no check engine light. Solution was thankfully the easiest. The light bulb was burned out. LED replacements on the way. I love Amazon prime.
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Alternator reinstalled with a new belt. Voltage is still unstable. Should be able to swap PCM on Tuesday. I really hope that fixes it.
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Crawled under and it looks like I get to do a rear main seal, oil pan gasket and possibly the pan as well. The face plate to the radio is busted and I figured out that at one point it had an aftermarket alarm. I can only wonder what wiring demons I will have to face. I guess I'll find out next week when it gets a new radio with steering controls tied in and remote start.
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I wouldn't beat yourself up too much. No matter how carefully you inspect a car before you buy it, you'll always find hidden surprises.
I'm dealing with a leaky sunroof on the '09 Commander I just bought. I'm not sure how I would have figured that one out unless it was raining when I bought it.
It is now at the stealership getting the PCM flashed and two recalls done. They gave me a rental for two days its a chrysler 200 (BARF!). I was told it would probably be done around noon today the service department has been closed for over two hours and I never heard from them once. Guess I get to call in the morning since the rental has to be returned tomorrow afternoon.
279K miles what did you relay expect?? Just saying lol
Wheel the crap out of it and move on this will never be a cream puff
Last Friday I got the new head unit installed along with an interface module for the steering wheel controls. Volume up & down/Mute on the right and scan up & down/Source on the left.
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Saturday I started work on the seat frame that was broken. It had breaks in both the back and base.
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Disclaimer: I am not a professional welder. I wouldn't call myself even a good welder. Also I would never charge anyone for my current welding abilities nor would I guarantee them. That being said I have yet to break one of my ugly ass welds so I believe them to be adequate. I don't need to hear how bad my welding is, please save that for someone else's thread.
Welding was performed with a 110v Harbor Freight flux core welder.
I welded back together the broken seat back and added reinforcments made from 3/16" solid rod. On the base I opened up the cracks and used a 16ga. patch on the bottom side stitch welded around the perimeter. I wanted to avoid making a long brittle section by doing a full perimeter weld. Then welded the cracks together and to the 16ga. I do not have pics of the seat base repairs it was late and I was tired. The foam padding in the seat was also repaired, added to where needed, and reinforced with burlap so the newly repaired frame wouldn't just rip back through the worn spots. Two spots on the upholstery we sewn back together before seat reassembly as well.
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Next was onto the remote start which is a very nice feature here in Michigan. I installed an Avital 4105l w/ a DB3 databus interface. The only part left is the hood safety interlock. I don't like the cheap plastic hood pin that came with it so I will be putting in a gravity operated tilt switch so the Jeep won't remote start with the hood up. The system is tied to the rear defrost as well 10 seconds after remote start the rear defrost is activated. I had to deal with an old alarm/start system that had been poorly installed and then removed as well as poorly done repairs to the power and ground in the driver door loom that had failed. In the end I am happy with the install. It doesn't look like I was ever in there. I did not document the install there are some good write ups on other forums for an Avital 4103 w/ a DB2 that use identical wiring.
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Saturday afternoon I had to put in a new battery 3-4 days of working on it with multiple doors open and the lights on because I was working at night mostly took its toll. I got reminded the hard way why not to wear jewelry while servicing a vehicle. In my haste I forgot to remove my wedding band. My wedding band made contact with the negative battery post and the ratchet tightening the positive terminal. The result was painful. When I looked down my titanium ring was still glowing.
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Saturday evening/night I tackled the oil issue. After removing the inspection plate it became evident that the rear main seal is perfectly fine. The bell housing/flexplate is dry as a bone. I changed the pan and gasket because the pan was rusting pretty good and it looked like the gasket was leaking. Removal confirmed the gasket was leaking evidenced by the burnt sludge left on the pan and block in two places. Everyplace else on the block and pan you could see where the gasket was working properly. It still needs a valve cover gasket but the oil seems to be staying on the inside now.
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Marriage can be painful at times! 😀
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Dang....I rarely remove my ring when working on the cars...I may start now...
Ouch!! I take mine off more often than not for fear of being de-gloved, but that's a damn good reason to take it off too. I've got a key box on the wall in the shop and put my ring in there when I remember to do it.
Didn't take any pics but today the rear upper control arm and ball joint got replaced. While in there discovered a bad u-joint in the drive shaft. Rear inner pads almost gone while outers are not terrible. So I get to do pads and calipers and drive shaft joints. Lower bolts for the shocks and sway bar links are totally shot. At least I know I need replacements before I do the lift so I don't get stuck in the middle. The rear bumpstops are also rotted out and need to be rebuilt. I hope when I cut them back there is some metal left for me to work with.
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Yesterday saw new rear calipers and lug nuts. Plus a new flat front tire, she must have run something over.
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About three weeks ago the tire was flat because of a pencil in the inner side wall. $200 later there is a new tire and 4 replace/repair certificate's. About a week and a half ago while I'm out of state for training I get a call that the temp went up to 260. She killed the A/C, rolled the windows down and turned on the heat full blast and the temp came down so long as she was moving. She limps it home and I get to drive 500 miles round trip on the weekend between weeks two and three of my training session to fix a cooling fan. The relay and plug for the relay we're shot.
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