Thread: Build in parts on WJ

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  1. #1 Build in parts on WJ 
    Member Tuzmaster's Avatar
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    Alright, so after a bunch of research, I have narrowed down on the build. I want to use Clayton's long arm 6" lift, along with different axles (D44 front with same bracket location as stock D30, high 1 ton steering with ram assist, D60/ ford 9" rear, same brackets as the stock 44a and same geometry suspension wise) (On a side note, isn't WJ steering already 1 ton? since ZJs and XJs like to swap those in?) Original plan was to get the axles ready and get the lift and then swap them all at once.

    My problem is this is my DD and I'm in grad school. Which means time is the hardest thing to find. I want to build this myself though. So I got an idea of buying the lift and parts piece by piece. Since Clayton's lift can be bought in parts and the long arms are suppose to be adjustable 0 to 6" of lift, I should be able to still drive it in between the building process. Meantime, while the jeep is driven on long arm lift, the ride should be better. Also with 230k miles on the clock, the bushings im sure are crap and need to be replaced. so rather than going through that pain, just swap the arms for the 6" potential lift in the future. So here is the plan:

    -convert front suspension to long arm and set the control arms for 2" of lift (current lift),
    -Change lower control arms in the rear to long arms
    -Do a 242>242 HD upgrade with SYE (speaking of, is one really exist?)
    -Get the front and rear axles and build them up
    - get the rest of the parts for the lift (should be upper control arms for the rear, springs and shocks)
    -swap everything in 1 weekend

    This would of course be done 1 piece at a time. Each one is easily doable in a few hours (yea right) to a day.

    The other piece of the puzzle I have not figured out yet is what length the new driveshafts need to be. Would the GURU's of this Forum help a newb?? Is this plan even a good idea? I really do not want to wait until school is done and rather do little pieces at a time and build that way.
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  2. #2 Re: Build in parts on WJ 
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    You could do it that way; mostly.

    You could do the front longarms and be driving again as soon as they are finished. That is pretty easy. I wouldn't touch your steering until you do the front axle swap. For mine, I just bought the synergy JK steering - bolt in, done and done.

    For the rear, you will need to change the suspension as Clayton's is a true 4 link whereas the stock setup used an "A arm" for upper control arms. Clayton's sells a bolt on "adapter" to adapt your stock axle to the 4 link. You could use that while building your axle, which will have a truss on it for the upper arms. So again, yes. You could do the rear arms and the axle swap later. It would cost you buying both the stock adapter and later the truss, but the extra cost is minimal. Also, buying the Clayton's kit piece by piece will yield a higher total cost than buying their entire kit.

    Does your Jeep have an I6 or V8? If it is V8 with 242 you already have a 242HD. If it is I6, just leave it alone - not worth the trouble of swapping something else. So, if you have either 242, just leave it. If you have the 247 (full time) you will want to swap it out.

    I would plan at least of full weekend out of commission for each step. Who knows what issues you will run into with stuck or rusty hardware, etc, etc.

    So, it can be done this way, but it will cost more in the end and, IMO, you need to plan PLENTY of down time for each step if you depend on the rig for DD duty.
    04 Dub -- Longarms, JK44, 9" ARB's etc.
    68 Super Wagoneer - Resto Project
    93 ZJ: longarms, 231D, 35's, 44/Hi 9", ARB's, etc. -- Sold
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  3. #3 Re: Build in parts on WJ 
    Member Tuzmaster's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input. After looking into detail on the Clayton's lift, its not adjustable (turns out) to 2", only 4 to 8. So thats out. I think Rustys control arms are adjustable to 2, but I'd rather go with the Clayton's. Looks like its back to square 1.

    Oh and the 242 is not an HD, but I do have a V8. It had the 247 that was shot so I swapped in with the 242, but I pulled it out of an I6 WJ. Its been working fine on stock / 1 size larger tires, but with 35"s itll need beefing and SYE.

    In the meantime, anyone in the Colorado Springs area willing to help a newb with welding? My spring cup on the front axle needs to be replaced and needs to be welded on. I can supply parts, tools and a 12-pack with food. But I need someone who knows how to weld with a welder to help.
    Last edited by Tuzmaster; 03-27-2017 at 11:35 AM.
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  4. #4 Re: Build in parts on WJ 
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    Maybe just add 2" spacers to your springs when you do the front long arms? The rear will be ok short arm and 4" until you do the rear longarms. If you replaced your stock shocks they will be a bit short, limiting down travel, but will suffice until you get bigger springs and longer shocks in the future.

    Edit...Just realized you used a bb to obtain current lift - Maybe buy Claytons 4" springs - then add 2" spacer when ready to go to 6".
    04 Dub -- Longarms, JK44, 9" ARB's etc.
    68 Super Wagoneer - Resto Project
    93 ZJ: longarms, 231D, 35's, 44/Hi 9", ARB's, etc. -- Sold
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  5. #5 Re: Build in parts on WJ 
    Member Tuzmaster's Avatar
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    Turns out Tom woods has an SYE for a 242. converts to 31 spline too.

    That actually sounds like a good idea. I would have to get new shocks too as currently I am running stock length. How are the driveshaft length at 4" of lift? would those need to be lengthened?

    There is still an issue on my lower spring towers on the front axle. They have to be replaced. Right now I cannot even wheel. Daily driving is ok, but I do not want to risk it on the trail.
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