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Hey guys
I got an idea that currently researching. Swapping JKu Dana 44s under a WJ. They come as high pinion ( I believe) and you can get a brand new housing for relatively cheap. My question is, how are the bracket locations on them? The front axle looks to have same mounting points as stock D30 that came with the WJ. JK axles are suppose to be good 4 to 5 inches wider than the stock WJ ones so should help with 6" lift height. I do not know how the rear JK44 compares to a 44a in the WJ, but its not a much of a concern at this point.
The plan is to use Clayton's 6" long arm kit for a WJ along with D44s and 35" tires. Getting only housing would also mean buying gears (4.88s), locker and Chromoly shafts (pardon the spelling) all separetely. Also put a truss on both front and rear axles.
So the questions are:
-How close are the brackets in terms of location between JK 44 and a WJ D30? Will it be practically a bolt on or some modification required?
-Will the WJ knuckles fit the JK axle? I would like to keep the stock ones or get the beefier version of the same thing. Also would keep stock dual piston caliper and get a better pads and disks.
The goal for this build is more to keep as much things "stock" if possible and see how the rig would perform. I'd rather get it right or close to it the first time. Maximum I would absolutely go are 37", but that is highly unlikely at this point. It seems WJs perform best at 35" tires with a decent lift.
Let me know what you think.
Do NOT bother with the rear axle. It is a modest upgrade at best and the brackets are not at all similar.
The front however is a good swap IMO. You can ALMOST bolt in a JK44. The sway bar mounts need to be raised (easy) and the spring buckets are technically a shade wider on a JK than a WJ. You can use the stock spring buckets, but the springs will not be perfectly vertical. I have been running a JK44 for two years with the stock spring buckets. You will need to run spacers on top of your springs to account for the lower buckets though...
You cannot use the WJ outers, however the JK stuff is an upgrade. The JK calipers are single piston, but bigger and use larger disks. The JK brakes are better than the WJ Akebono stuff. Also, the speed sensor is built into the hub, so if you do a rear axle swap, you can use the JK hub/speed sensor to make the speedo happy.
My axle is sleeved and trussed with 4.56 and ARB. I also used RCV axles, but only because I got a killer deal on them. There are lots of shaft options for the JK44. I like the setup - better braking, HP, and so far has been very reliable with 35's.
Last edited by jsteves; 03-24-2017 at 12:16 PM.
So what are other good HP options for the rear? 9" are hard to find and i don't want to go to 1 tons as the ground clearance is low in the back. 8.8 is common but narrow and i want to avoid using wheel spacers. What about D60? How much bigger is it compared to a D44? would it be and idea to see how the stock 44a stand up to the abuse?
There is a low pinion 9" on Denver CL now.
https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5989278279.html
EDIT: If you do talk to this guy, tell him you could hear him talking about it all the way down there in the Springs!
Last edited by K2; 03-24-2017 at 05:58 PM.
That is a very nice ad. Thanks Ken
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
pmed.
I have noticed on the forum a lot of people talk about moving axles back (typically less than an inch). What all is involved and should one be done to a WJ when running 35s? Is it as simple as adjusting the control arms to be a little longer ushing the axle back or do the upper sprinng brackets need to be relocated? It seems slightly unnecessary for that tire size. Trimming better.
Push back by extending the adj long arms. You don't need to move it back much.
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