231 shift plate question

[snaps]

I'm in the process of putting my 231 back together for the 3rd time this week. I've been building a 231 HD and let's just say it has been a learning process....
I have seen pictures of the stock shift plate (1/4" piece that moves the shift forks in and out of gears) and the one in my junkyard 231 (case receiving upgraded internals) looks a good bit different. I initially thought it was a term 2 lo but it only has 4 detent positions so it is a regular plate. I'm curious if anyone who has been inside a 231 has seen this same style of plate.

I also have had issues with getting they front yoke to disengage in what I am positive is 2Hi but I think that may be because I haven't torqued the output flange nut all the way down.

This is what's in my case.



This is the plate I found when searching for np231 shift selector.



Thanks in advance.


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[BigDaveZJ]

There's something off with that plate. I just sold a bucket full of 231 parts that had a couple of those in there too.

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[K2]

That looks like the Tera 2 Low plate.

[Ted_Z]

Not a Teralow.
Pictured below, on the left is a mode selector cam from a XJ 231 (late model), on the right is a mode selector cam ZJ 231.

Read this:
www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?25603

[snaps]

Thanks for the guidance. I just wanted to make sure I hadn't picked up someone elses botch job at the junkyard. The rural gentlemen at the junkyard told me he pulled it out of a the TJ... I guess he was mistaken. Not suprising though since tons of people don't really get the frame initials on jeeps. Every jeep is a wrangler right???

[snaps]

So I got everything buttoned back up and this mutherfuker still wont shift correctly. Its in neutral currently. I can pull the shift arm (on the transfercase) to either side of neutral but as soon as I let go it slips back to neutral. Its almost as though the journal bearings on the shift fork arent reaching the land on the shift plate... I cant get the shift arm to go far enough in either direction to fully stay in gear.
Im really hoping this is just a lubrication issue since the transfer case sat dry for a while and I havent filled it completely yet.

Caveat, I installed a wide chain in this thing and for a while I thought the chain width was causing problems but then I got it to actually shift. No i cant get back to that point... I am positive I installed everything in the correct orientation...

[Ted_Z]

Does your shift plate and arm look like these?

[snaps]

I haven't even begun to tackle the issue of shifter bezzle/ linkage. Im trying to shift through the gears while sitting underneath my wj and pulling the arm connected to the case. Im using the arm from my old 247 (about twice as long but has the same slot) but it fits and I was previously able to shift through all 4 positions without hitting the case.

[JohnBoulderCO]

The 247 arm needs to be shortened. It will cause trouble getting in 4 low or pop out intermittently. I saw that happen on another WJ that put in a 231 case. Mine is shortened.

[snaps]

Yeah i know im going to have to rig up some sort of solution to the shift arm (exterior) problem. The problem Im having is not dependant on the shift arm. Ive tried using a pair of needle nose vice grips to shift and still cant get it to stick in either 4hi or 2 hi without slipping back to neutral.
The spring on the shift rod is installed. Shift rod is not too long or hitting the tail cone housing (visually verified with the plug off). The mode hub is correctly oriented (tapered edge facing forwared, stepped edge facing rearward). All three shafts rotates freely without any noise or binding. All the tell tail signs of common 231 rebuild issues are not present...

The ONLY thing I can think to be causing this is the fact that its not full of ATF... tonight i will fill it up and give it a good spin in neutral and hopefully the journal races on that gaddamn plate will get lubed and allow movement of the forks....

or i say fuck it and buy and atlas...