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So I've been a long time looker and finally feel my rig us ready for a build thread...
the real tech starts at the bottom of first page
I'm in the middle of a dana 300 swap 8 lug 44 front and 14 bolt rear 3/4 link
And it's about time I start getting some feedback!
Let me know what you think!
98 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 4x4 np242
IN THE BEGINING:2009ish
The 31's and 2.5 procrap lift wernt cutting it...
So I ripped the bumper off for more ground clearance and that super cool look
I started throwing some cash into the thing.. here and there stuff, jks adjustable controll arms front upper and rear upper/lower, adjustable track bars, beefy motor mounts IORN MAN FAB. (Which I have yet to put onn) lol, and some other little things some new rims and tires, rock sliders, a stereo,
All the while I got the everso famous death wobble, like most of us...
I got this beauty in hopes of fixing it 2010-2011
Also got a v8 Durango steering box
Still didn't work.
But I ran it anyway
I flexed on everything I could find 2011-2012
I wanted to go a little bigger so I got some bigger springs off craigslist
6.5 RE TJ coils.. but with the heavier zj front end sat at about 4- 4.5
I put the 2.5 pro comp fronts in the rear to be at about 4.5
My girlfriend got me some shocks and a folding shovel from smittybuilt
(I got a keeper)2012
I made a mistake of not getting adjustable front lower links this you can see in this pic of full droop the front end is bending the springs backwards
The spring rate combo made the ride pretty unstable the rear end sat higher than the front did, and the springs were wayy stiffer in the rear that they were in the front, due to the absence of weight, that a front spring is set up for (motor)
like a dumb ass I ran it anyway
UNFOURTANETLY it was too unstable.......
My brother actually got a video of us rolling from
If you wanna see the video search "rollin in the jeep on youtube" should Bo one of the first couple videos
The transformation begins:
I fixed the window, welded up some cutout rockers picked up some 35's stripped the interior
And started to build some tube doors
The rig was coming together after I rolled it. I found an aussie locker on Craigslist, I traded the guy for a stock sway bar and some almost new jks discos.
My origional carrier was a trac-loc so the locker wouldn't fit I had to hit the junkyard for a stock style carrier thank god the first one I opened had 4:11s and an open carrier
Also threw on some chromos and 37's while I had the rear end apart, bad idea.. I know.
Started the trim for the 37's
I bent each little flap backwards and beat them flat with a mallet.
I got some garden liner from home Depot to cover the flaps and add a little more of a clean look to it, I think I painted the sliders white that day too
It came out pretty clean
Currently I am working in getting the 300 mated up and the floor pan cut to clear it.
It's almost there
I'm also workin out the front dana 44, getting the old brackets ground off and the new brackets set up
Cardboard works great.. I found a 3 inch cardboard tube that I used as my "axle tube" for mock up
Then I sent the dimensions to a buddy of mine and he hooked it up with a custom link tower
We had to make a couple to get it right but we are almost there.
I'm waiting for some cash to get my crossmember going then I will be buttoning up the t case front axle and three link here in the next month or two..
Got to work for about an hour tonight I got the case mated to the transmission. I had put the bolts in the clocking ring at the first set of threaded holes
this put the case really flat. Should I run it?? Lol
I took it back off and moved the studs over 3 holes to clock the case down a little
This is going to make my driveline better and put the shift linkage in a better position
Put some silicone on the ring bolted it up to the transfer case and called it a night
I'll hit it again tomorrow to seal the case to the tranny
Last edited by FOUR.GO; 12-30-2014 at 02:34 AM.
Fun build man! Question for ya: the only reason I'd ever go to passenger side drop is for the cheaper chevy/dodge dana 60s. What is your primary desire for switching to passenger drop?
I run with a bunch of chevy guys and the chevy drop axle was available. My t case was shit so I said what the heck.. I'll throw a d 300 in and run it
Fair enough, a flat belly would be nice. You'll have to cut more floor out to keep it flat with a good 3/4 link setup.
I kinda wish I cur my floors, lower mounts hang about 2" below the "frame" rails. Got hung up on the rear lowers pretty good last time out
This clocking ring makes it really flat it's nice
I'm thinking of running a clayton crossmember and building the links off of that and just add the upper link on the passenger side
This will be my first link build I've read and read and read about them and am excited to actually start throwing it together
What's your opinion on the x member? I have a 4 foot piece of 3x5x.25 square tubing. I think it's too big and bulky though and that's why I'm leaning towards the clayton x member...plus it already has a starting point for me to build the links off of I still need to figure out separation and what not any tips or rule of thumb for axle and frame seperation? How far out should I put the axle side mounts? Vs. How far in should my 3 link tower be?
Got the case up and sealed last night. I clocked it down a little bit, it still sits above the frame rails this did two things
1: brought the front yoke lower and improved the driveline angle
2: it made the shift bracket sit more level and in the long run will have a cleaner outcome for when it gets shift knobs and a cover
If I did my 3 link again, I would have started with the Clayton front cross member for sure. Ruffstuff long tabs fit nicely on top of my cross member which was inspired by the Clayton one. I drilled an extra set of holes to give me some adjustability but haven't needed it. Good work so far
thanks for confirming I think I'm gunna cut one of the mock up towers down for my upper x member link. I'll just have to see how it all fits once i get it!
So right now I'm on a pause till I get paid I'll probly head out there and start sanding down the axles for paint while I wait
It's been an unproductive week.. I ground down the axle for paint in all the spots I could hit with a flap disk.
Tomorrow I'll go back out and get all the dirt out of the nooks and crannies
Then I'll hit it with a pressure washer let it dry for a day or two and throw some paint on the knuckles and different housing.
I'll paint the tube when all the brackets are burned in
What happened to my pictures???
So I did alot of nick nac work while rebuilding the axle. Balljoints, wheelbearings, and did some custom painting on the hubs I'm pretty proud of em..
Sanded down the top layer before the clear coat
Also I got the old rotors turned, it's starting to look like an axle again.
I also found some 14inch coilovers online for 250 they have to be rebuilt and get some springs but I think they will be a nice for for my project
StI'll have to get the coilover, lower link, and trackbar mounts ordered, onice I get the clayton crossmember I can mock it all up and burn it all in!
Last edited by FOUR.GO; 10-21-2014 at 09:10 PM.
That's really awesome that you saved it after the roll and didn't just throw in the towel!
Thanks..I was really close..but as it sat in my driveway u had a spur of the moment "I can fix it" thought and got to work with a high lift and the window ended up looking alright. That and the radaptor were to only things that really broke other than a few more dents lol my buddy had a radiator on warranty for the same jeep.. which is now my dd so I swapped them our straightened out the window frame and threw In a windshield and Rex was good to go. He wears the battles cars well haha
So I got a new house and finally got a garage big enough to work on this pig. It was on the side of my parents house for about 2 months while I saved money I was a little excited when I pulled it out
I had to build a lengthend driveline to get the dana 300 to meet up with the rear axle we went kinda magiver on it
Turned out pretty good after the paint
So in true jeep fashion it decided to die punting down the driveway and not restart.. just crank and crank and crank
I checked for fuel at the rail... check.. so I pulled a plug to check for spark.. NADA threw a volt meter to the coil plug shows like 11 volts so PCM/sensors were ok.. threw a test light behind the coil aND cranked it.. YATZEE threw a 35 dollar ccoil on there and bingo fired right up..
Now to embark on a 35 mile journey with expired tags from more than a year ago. Exhaust taken off behind the headers a huge hole in my floorboard and a magivered driveline turning 37's and a locker.. needless to say it was a fun ride I threw an idler pulley on the way over and that was the worst of the problems
WE MADE IT!!!!now I just gotta get my axles and tool bench and I can throw this thing under the knife and get ready for the 3 link and coil overs
So for Christmas my girlfriend bought me a clayton crossmember this this is beefy but sleek.. I love it.
I got a couple hours to tinker this afternoon before work and pulled off the old crossmember 3/4 bolts are rusted and the head snapped off.. just my luck... but anyway
Also had some iorn man 4x4 motor mounts laying around I decided to pull out and put em on the jeep
I'm stuck l ok e this for now seeing I have no way to support the rear of the driveline until I get ahold of a welder until then I'll just do what I can to work around the situation
looks good. how do you like the 4.5 lift with 37's?
That's pretty much the same as my setup, I added more steel behind the brackets tieing into the unibody to help disperse the load of the single upper a bit more
Can you post a pic of the bracing? Also I will be running the upper link to the tube of the dana 44 nOT the pumpkin.. do you guys see a problem with the added weight of the pumpkin not having a link to it?
I would put at least a small truss on the front axle to tie both tubes together. I'll get a pic for you soon, there might be one in my build thread
I checked and didn't see anything I wS thinking back it up to the rear of the crossmembet and stitch 1/4 plate down the backside the length of the bracket extending down to the crosmember?? Or should I try going to the unibody?
Last edited by FOUR.GO; 01-08-2015 at 09:53 PM.
Played with the photo editor a little bit after I got the crossmember welded up... driving home I noticed my rear end clunking really loud I think my aussie locker is effed up. I put it on the jack and the rear right tire failed the spin test. Driver tire is fine. Anyone have experience with theese? Is there a way to adjust the tollerances' or something?
Last edited by FOUR.GO; 01-09-2015 at 11:22 PM.
i woudl start with the green upper and drop it down if you notice the front end has weird anti-dive or unloads when you approach a log or step up
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