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Yea and the K in MTR/K is for kevlar which is supposed to be puncture resistant. Guess not.
Stitching and patching would probably work. I think I will use my bald 39.5 on an aluminum wheel though to save some weight. Im not really crazy about the idea of carrying a spare.
I like that patch job.
Question, why a reverse 4 link? I come from a street truck/car background and those were always a no-go in that realm.
Mostly to make room to lower it more. If I did a standard tri-4 with the triangle point at the axle I would need a truss on top of my 14 bolt wich would be fine if I didn't need to keep my gas tank where it is. I didn't think it would make to much of a difference but now you have me wanting to re-research. What would be the down side?
The geometry makes it so you are pulling the rear instead of pushing it forward if i remember right. I have seen a bunch of weird setups but most were for the track or bagged trucks. Alot of great concepts like a watts link are all but unuseable on a wheeled rig. I'm no guru though so look into it more.
It would also kill departure angle.
Just to be clear were talking about links behind the axle like this
Last edited by bentwrench; 03-11-2015 at 12:22 AM.
Ok, I get what your talking about. Probably a more true reverse, I can see how that would cause a problem.
Here's a link to what I ordered, I'm interested to see what you or others think about it because I havnt seen it used much, but don't see why it would be much different since your still getting your triangulation just from different points.
http://www.chassisunlimited.com/prod...ion-kit-c.html
According to what i have read that is a good setup but you will have more body roll on the street. The upside is that its better in go fast areas and will move the body less during flex. However im not the smartest guy in the room and maybe someone more in the know will come in.
This was a good thread for basic ideas http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...s-dummies.html
Thanks for the link bentwrench, It looks like it will work fine I just need to set it up according to my preference. I will also put my anti-rock in the rear with the 4-link, that should help. Leafs are so much simpler, not sure it's gonna be worth the change.
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Last edited by wjguy; 03-15-2015 at 04:58 AM.
To get my axle centered where I wanted it I had to find a forward facing steering box, so I got a JK box that looks very similar so I thought it would be as easy as drilling a few new holes and making some structural reinforcements.
I was wrong, we spent all day making changes to make it work. I forgot to take pictures of the finished product but you can probably see where its going.
Cut it and plated so we could get the box exactly where we want it without worrying about it contacting anything from engine torque.
This is almost full bump height, it should be about an inch or 2 lower by tomorrow, hopefully.
Ride height should be pretty damn close to this, hopefully an inch or 2 lower too. I think its at about a 6-7 inch lift and the axle is probably 7" forward from stock.
We got the lower links on but when we tried to find a spot for the upper link we failed, with the height i want. So we are going to try a y-link radius arm setup.
Looks great man. I kinda wish i would have done the single sided radius arm setup. I would be done with my front axle by now.
Whats the overall drop? Looks like about 4 inches?
Also i love how well your cage flows.
I love the fact that some people are putting time and effort to a lower cog and bigger tires and understanding that you are only as high as your lowest point! People always ask first "so how much lift do you run?" And when I tell them about 4" they say "wow and you can clear 37s?
Loving this build btw!
Grand slam west ready?
Wrench, thanks. I think the overall drop is about 6.5". I wanted a 3-link and think it would be better but I couldn't find a way without re routing my exhaust or raising the ride height 3-4 inches, I also had to get my junk off the rack by Monday morning. I feel that the radius arm will work out even if I have to make some changes here and there to get it exactly how I want. But it's definately quick and easy to fab up and burn in.
Thanks stealth zj.
Last edited by CRJEeP_wj; 04-21-2015 at 10:32 PM.
I got a little more done today. It was sitting on its own weight by the end of the day. Charged the struts, but still need to bleed them and set for ride height. I have some welding and putting crap back together to do then I can drive it around and make sure everything is gonna work out before I start up on the back.
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