"The stroller": family wj build

[CRJEeP_wj]

I have lots to do still on the interior and welding the exterior but this is the gist of what its gonna look like. I might add some more body protection off the C pillar.
The C pillar ties into the stick of tube running from one side of the jeep through the frame to the other side with plate welded where it goes through the frame. I took it out and tested it to see if I had any hang ups on travel from that tie in point and its all good and tight enough to be out of my way.

[CRJEeP_wj]

I finished welding the exterior and got the fenders back on.

[josh baker]

looks good dude. any plans for the sun roof area?

[CRJEeP_wj]

Thanks. Yea, I think I'm gonna cut and dimple die some plate around the sun roof on top. Not fully but enough to act as a gusset and add some side impact protection.

[CRJEeP_wj]

Had some fun last weekend.

[CRJEeP_wj]

climbed stuff.

[CRJEeP_wj]

[CRJEeP_wj]

I finally got some protection for my goods. Got a good deal on this.

[CRJEeP_wj]

Went to fordyce for the first time. 1 of our group broke pretty bad so we didn't get to far in. Heres driveline hill.http://youtu.be/FDVZQhoDVE4

[CRJEeP_wj]

[CRJEeP_wj]

So I need some suspension advice. I want to lower my jeep 4" in the front and move the axle forward 3-4". Right now I can't lower it at all because the upper CA on my triangulated 4 link will contact my driveline and oil pan and exhaust. I drive this to the trail and have a drag link, right now it drives down the road good if all my joints are in good shape. I want to keep my lower CAs where they are and lengthen them but one question is, can I remove one upper CA and add a pan hard bar and still expect the same travel without binding? And the same road manners? Or should I remove both and add a parallel upper?




Also is it going to be worth it to lower and stretch it? I have to change my steering and suspension design so its going to be down for a little while, but I'm doing it for stability. Has anyone made similar changes? I lean too far for my taste when off camber, I want to change that somewhat.
Heres how it sits now.

[IndyZJ]

Lowering it 4-6" will be huge for stability. Going to a 3 link with a panhard should help a lot over the minimal triangulation you've got and drive of a lot better than what you're working with now. I'd start there before worrying about pushing the steering box forward.

It looks like it'd be easiest to fit a driver side upper so that you don't have to mess with the exhaust. Make it closer to parallel and put the upper up on the inside of the rail to get some more separation and clear the driveshaft.

[CRJEeP_wj]

Thanks for the input. Six inches would be nice. What do you think about removing the driver side upper and leaving the passenger side at that horizontal angle but putting a bend in it to avoid the exhaust? And adding a track/panhard bar of course. I will need to move the steering forward a few inches if I lower it to clear contact with the body on up travel steering situations, but I think I have a way to gain up to 4in without moving my steering box.

[IndyZJ]

I doubt you'd be able to get enough strength into a single bent upper and still clear the exhaust as it is. Plus, that much angle could hurt joint life. With your existing brackets, it looks like you'd get some funky antidive/ squat sitting lower.

Have you thought about lowering the steering, too? I wouldn't hesitate to flip the tie rod under the highsteer arms or even mount it on top of the factory arms, which would likely give better ackerman, too.

[gatorayde]

x2 on everything indy said. Absolutely worth it. I dropped from 6" to 4" of lift and the stability was night and day. Now rocking maybe 2" of lift and heavy ass one tons feels even better.

The steering box is in a pretty shitty spot on these things, unfortunately. I was looking at finding a shorter pitman arm, or just fabbing an entire new mount pushed 4-5" forward. In the end I put a pretty hefty bend in the track bar to clear the diff and left the stock box/arm alone.

Not sure how the 4.7 and 4.0 oil pan clearances compare, but I still have a ton of room at full bump.

There isn't a passenger manifold to worry about, but here's what I did with my 4.0's upper link. Still had to shift the exhaust over towards the drivers side an inch or two. Packaging the drag link, track bar, and upper link is a pain in the balls.. Take your time and really check every option you have to fit everything in. It's worth the effort now, rather than later.

Sorry for the shitty pics but it might help give you some ideas.

[CRJEeP_wj]

Thanks guys. That track bar looks like it was a PITA. I think I will run mine just like yours gatorayde, but with flex joints on all ends. Is there a reason for running your upper CA heim on its side where its tied to the frame? I have seen it done a lot just seems like it could be harder on the joint and possibly limit travel slightly, Im sure I'm wrong but still interested why its ran like that. Also, how far forward did you end up moving your axle forward from its original spot?

[gatorayde]

It really wasn't too bad, just a ruffstuff outboard bracket trimmed to fit around the frame and pinch seam. The track bar only has one 25 or 30 degree bend in it right near the frame. The axle mount is an offset mount from ruffstuff as well.

No reason really, just seemed like the strongest option. Both 1/4" tabs welded to the 1/8" frame plating, lower tab welded to the crossmember bracket, then fully boxed in with 1/8". And it droops like a mofo, I wouldn't worry at all. There isn't much room to fit a 2.625" joint up there, and even with a 2" heim it still droops 12"+, the trackbar was my limiting factor so I never fully maxed it out.

I really couldn't tell you how far it's pushed forward, it's not much though. At most 4 or 5", things get reeaaal tight when you start moving that big bitch forward haha...

[CRJEeP_wj]

Hopefully I will be able to put a low geared transfer case in this spring and lower the wj a few inches, so I started prepping things to be lowered. I wish I would have did this from the biggining but I finally raised my sliders into my rocker panel. Its a lot of work, I may do the passenger side a little differently.


Finished hight.


The other side.

[AQHACowboy]

Wow that is a sweet WJ and awesome build as well.

Are the axles still stock width or did you have them narrowed?

[CRJEeP_wj]

Thanks. They are stock width.

[Kraqa]

i love the rub rails going up the a pillar and the front bumper.

[CRJEeP_wj]

Thanks Kraqa.

I finally ordered everything to start re-building my WJ. I got the parts for my 3-link front and 4-link rear. The plan is to see how low I can get this and still rock the 42s. Im gonna do a reverse 4-link in the rear. I also am waiting on my behemoth box and 14" ori struts.

[CRJEeP_wj]

Went out wheeling on saturday. Slashed an MTR/K. Plug patched and swapped it to the rear, good enough to make the 3 hour trip home. Any ideas on how I can repair it good enough for a spare or do you think its trash now?


Also, if anybody has a 42x17 mtr/k for sale let me know.

[LSRGreg]

I have seen people dismount the tire, glue in a large patch on the inside then stitch it all together using thread and lots of rubber glue and it should hold up enough for a spare.

[ELLLLLIOTTTTT]

Doesn't the "R" in MT/R indicate "Reinforced" sidewall?