|
As I struggle to take the second D30 axle shaft apart to replace the u-joints and am really struggling with the rusted in old caps--been about four years since I replaced them--that are a bitch to press out with a vice...
Is it advisable to use anti-seize on the new u-joint caps when I put it back together? In theory it seems like a good idea, but sometimes my good ideas don't pan out.
I don't know if it matters but these are my full retaining ring set of axle shafts.
I'd think NO! The holes start wallowing out when the caps turn, so i'd imagine promoting that is just asking to take out the ears on the trail when you're on the throttle. Just my .02 anyway!
I always soaked them in PB for a day or so first - it always made a world of difference, and I live in the rust belt (we salt the hell out of everything here for some reason.)
The u-joint caps are press fit into the ears. I'd want that to be as tight as possible and don't want those caps moving at all. Most folks tack weld the caps onto the ears to help inhibit them from falling out. Anti-seize seems like it would work against the goal of keeping the u-joint caps in place and I really don't know if I'd want any sort of anti-seize involved in a press-fit application.
I would soak them in PB Blaster or equivalent overnight and see if that helps. A couple whacks with a hammer to the u-joint cap might also be enough to loosen things up.
Last edited by SirFuego; 06-18-2013 at 11:42 AM.
Do yourself a favor and buy a balljoint press - the HF one works just fine. Just be careful - too much pressure will bend the ears of smaller/ weaker shafts. For really stubborn joints, soak them as already said, put a decent amount of tension on them with the press, and give it some persuasion with a hammer.
Thanks for the feedback. I was able to get them out with a little heat and under pressure from the the vice and stratigically placed sockets. Pop goes the u-joint. I could still touch and hold my fingers on the ears so they didn't really get hot. Interesting about welding them as I would figure that the heat would warp them some, but maybe just small spot welds?
The driver side was easy as they had already spun a bit which is what caught my attention, but the passinger side was the beast. I cut them for full clips so the side that was loose were still in w/o any issue.
Since I didn't get any answer last night and put the passinger side together with a little, I will push them out and wipe them down and monitor them.
I think the biggest thing that I need to do is swap them out every couple of years as rust isn't a lubricant either and there was some in the passinger side. I know I replaced the driver side about a year after doing the full clip so that is my guess why it still had some brown colored lube.
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Thread Information |
Users Browsing this ThreadThere are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests) |