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Hey guys,
I just wrapped up my swap of putting a waggy 44 under the front of my WJ. Took it for a test drive around the neighborhood and when I parked it I noticed some crazy camber angle. Had someone watch the front as I backed it up and down the driveway (straight line) and it went back and forth between pos and neg camber.
A little info on the axle, it's from an '87 waggy and has been converted to 5x5.5 using Chevy small bearing spindles and ford hubs rotors. Knuckles, caliper brackets, and calipers are stock waggy. Ball joints are brand new but are rock auto bottom of the line. Where did I go wrong? Thanks in advance!
Here's a less than stellar pic if it helps
If you're getting camber change the balljoints are shot or your wheel bearings are loose. I'd say pop a locking hub and double check how tight your hub nuts are to make sure the bearings didn't seat deeper on the first test drive, loosening things up
What he said. Loose balljoints or hubs are the only things that could let the camber move around assuming you tightened the lug nuts and the wheels seated correctly. I bet you'd find out really fast once you jack a corner up and do the ol' 12 and 6 test.
Just to be sure - you did install the locking rings and second hub lock nuts, right?
I definitely installed both spindle nuts as well as the lock ring. Popped both hubs off and the innermost nut was plenty tight on both sides. After watching it drive again I noticed the camber is going one way in reverse and the other when going forward. The toe is waay off on this axle so is it possible that its putting enough force on the tires to give the illusion that camber is changing? Or is that just wishful thinking?
What is plenty tight? There is are general torque specs. Go to 40-50 lb/ft on the inner nut while spinning to ensure everything is seated, then back it off about 1/4 turn. If the lock ring doesn't line up, continue to loosen slightly until it fits. Outer nuts go to 80+ lb/ft (higher doesn't hurt, lower can back off).
Did you jack up each side and try to physically move the tires at the top and bottom?
If toe in is really off, your caster could make it look like one wheel is straight up (straight ahead, camber correct) and the other's camber is off. What's keeping you from setting your toe in to negate this?
Nothing's stopping me really. I just ran out of time to mess with it yesterday and am working today. Spindle nuts are all torqued to proper specs. Maybe an alignment and quality upper ball joints will help.
Get the Napa premium balljoints and don't look back, wish I would've used them in mine instead of these spicers
Well the ol' 12 and 6 ball joint test showed no play or looseness. Also had my dad jack a tire off the ground and spin it and he said it spun straight. Ill be over there tomorrow to set the proper toe in and see what that does. It sounds crazy that it would only be an alignment issue but that's what I'm hoping for.
Did a driveway alignment today and all is well! No more camber changes. Thanks everyone for the input, I'm glad it was an easy fix
Looks good! Glad it was something stupid simple.
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