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Been out of the loop for awhile in the D44 world. Grand is back on D44/9inch and will be DD for awhile. Question is i have some old 3/4 ton highsteer knuckles. I want to keep the 5x5.5 bolt pattern to fit my old wheels. Can this be done? I did i little searching but most things i have founs is people converting to 8 lug. Help would be greatly appericated. Found a few articles but nothing concrete.
IIRC you can bolt the 1/2 ton spindles to the 3/4 ton knuckles to maintain you 5x5.5 pattern.
Yea thats what I remember as well I do believe the spindle is the same. I was wondering about brakes? Can I use the 1/2 ton caliper bracket and caliper along with the Rotor and hub? Or will I be able to use the 3/4 ton caliper bracket, caliper, on the 1/2 ton rotor and hub? No ideas. I have to get new steering figured I get some good stuff. The old axle was hydro.
The earlier F250 knuckles work with F150 spindles and brakes - to use Ford 1/2 ton brakes the knuckles must have the recess for the caliper. I believe biggoofy did this in his build thread.
For my F250 44, I wanted to run 5x5.5" 15" wheels and the later F250 knuckles I already had. I ended up making a completely custom brake setup with late-model Toyota parts. If I were to do it again I probably would have just run larger wheels and more factory parts. I wanted to see how large of a brake package I could fit in a 15" wheel since it was what I had.
If you have the later F250 knuckles and will run 16"+ rims, it's a lot easier. Just use the F250 knuckles, calipers, and caliper brackets with F150 spindles, bearings, and hubs. The only custom part would be the rotors. There are several options here, one being opening up the ID and taking down the OD of some late-model 1/2 ton dodge rotors. I found late-model Tacoma rotors to be the right OD, have a workable ID, offset, and thickness, and only need the bolt pattern redrilled for the 5 lug pattern.
edit: Or do the well-documented Chevy flat tops with Ford hubs if you need high-steer.
Last edited by IndyZJ; 12-04-2012 at 04:30 PM.
Since the 44/9 have been pulled and replaced and now put back into service the 44 has been scavenged for parts due to customers/shop needing parts off it. Id like to keep the high steer knuckles because i have no other parts right now to replace them except the 3/4 ton knuckles and spindles. I will be pieceing it back together. i am running a 17" wheel so i believe that will give me some options. Looks like i need to find some rotors that will work for my application? any suggestions/part numbers?
The F150/ F250 spindles are different.
After a ton of searching, I used Napa # NB 48880161 rotors for a 2005 Tacoma and redrilled the pattern. They are 12.55" OD (0.01 smaller than the F250 rotors) but 1.1" thick (0.08 narrower than discard-width F250 rotors). One hole matches and two overlap slightly, but the overlap does not matter since the studs and hub sandwich the rotor. They are almost identical in OD of the mounting face to the OD of the 5 lug hubs. With one matching hole and the ODs being so close it was easy to redrill the pattern with less radial runout than factory.
Another option I came across on pirate is Napa # NB 48880073. These would give the correct bolt pattern, but you'd have to machine the ID and OD to fit. These are the same thickness as the Toyota rotors above.
The Toyota rotors on 5 lug hubs appeared roughly centered under the F250 caliper bracket when I mocked them up. The Dodge rotors are approximately the same depth so the same should be true there. As I said earlier, I went with a different caliper (late FJ80) and mount because the F250 parts required more grinding than I was comfortable with in a 15" wheel.
Dang Indy you have done some searching. I use to have the ability to find specs and technical data like that through oreillys (where i use to work) but not anymore. So to get this to work i need: 3/4 knuckles, 3/4 caliper brackets, 1/2 spindle, NB 48880161 rotor (redrilled to 5x5.5), 1/2 hub, 3/4 caliper and 3/4 brake pads. plus various bearings and seals..... Correct? I owe you some beers!
I cannot verify the F250 brackets/calipers fitting with that rotor/hub combo for sure. I can only go off of what I mocked up about a year ago. I do know that nothing hit, parts appeared to fit as designed, and it *looked* like it would work. You do have quite a bit of leeway with the Ford caliper brackets. I would have run it had I not been determined to use my existing wheels and tires.
I do have that combo minus the F250 calipers and brackets. I made brackets to use late FJ80 calipers in order fit my wheels.
Napa's site is great for getting dimensions for things like rotors, bearings, seals, etc.
edit: Just did some measuring of the wheel mounting surface depths. The F150 hub and Tacoma rotor would put the F250 caliper approximately 0.3" inward from factory on the stock brackets.
Last edited by IndyZJ; 12-04-2012 at 07:41 PM.
I'm running f250 knuckles and f150 spindles. Works great. I'm running f150 brake caliper brackets and f150 calipers and rotors
Last edited by biggoofy; 12-04-2012 at 07:57 PM.
Indy: thanks for the info I really appreciate the help. So the .3 distance is probably enough to throw it off and not be able to run properly. I am headed to the parts house to look at some rotors and calipers.
Big: that setup works currently? Did you have to modify the knuckle or caliper?
I referenced your build earlier for the knuckles with the recess for the caliper. They have the one stud that is outside of the bracing on the back side of the knuckle like the F150 knuckles. Most I have run across (later years?) do not have that recess and 1/2 ton brakes will not clear the knuckle.
Yup 78 f250 knuckles and 79 f150 spindles and brakes.
works great I didn't modify a thing. Just bolted shit up.
Last edited by biggoofy; 12-04-2012 at 08:49 PM.
Big: Dang you got the super cab knuckles. They are flat tops and are notched to use the 1/2 ton braking system. They only made for a short time according to the website I found with some info on 44s and such. Good score there.
Oreillys didn't turn up anything.
Yup only made for 1/2 a year.
Found some 1/2 ton hubs and spindle along with some other things this morning. Does anyone know have or know where I can get 3/4 ton caliper brackets?
Jeff's bronco graveyard?
Last edited by biggoofy; 12-05-2012 at 12:40 PM.
Ive got one caliper bracket from a 78 f250 hp44, Ill have to look around for the other one but im not sure if I got it with the parts axle I bought.
Cool I will probably take you up on it.
I have a usable driver side bracket. I think the passenger side is too far gone to be safe, but it would be usable for mock-up. Both are the two-piston brackets.
If I don't hear from this other person soon I'll be gettin with y'all. Thank y'all so much!
So what Master cylinder are yall running with your brake setup? I think i am going to go with the 2500 dodge ram one. Has anyone used this one on a zj. Currently i have a soft pedal with the stock zj booster/mc. Running 1/2 ton d44 caliper up front and 1/2 ton chevy's on the nine inch in the rear. But i will be goint to the 3/4 ton dual pistons in the front. Thanksyall i know the e350 is another choice. like to keep my stock booster if possible.
I used the 01 dodge 2500 MC. It did great.
Gotta extend the push rod though.
what axles are you runing polar? Anyone else have any expierence with differnt MC?
There is a ton of VERY BAD brake info on the web, especially with regard to Jeeps. Many common MC swaps in Jeeps have too large a bore, resulting in low pressure at the calipers but a stiff pedal. No matter what a lot of people think, a stiff pedal does not necessarily mean good braking.
I match the MC to the size of the MC in the vehicle the front calipers come from. In your case, that will be 1.062" (1 1/16") for the Ford calipers. You can sometimes get away with a slightly oversized (~1/16") MC with a dual booster or hydroboost since the booster will generally help generate more pressure than a single booster or no booster at all. The correct-sized booster is usually a better option IMO. The 99 Dakota/ Durango MC looks to be a close match with a 1.125" bore.
Look here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...questions.html
Also, your rear calipers are actually severely oversized as is compared to the fronts, even when you switch to the larger front calipers. You can dial this down slightly with an adjustable proportioning valve, but the rears are still likely to lock up prematurely. Yes, I know everyone makes brackets for 1/2 - 3/4 ton Chevy calipers. No, that does not make it "right." Not noticeable in 4wd (duh), but it you can feel it in 2wd.
Look here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...questions.html
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