Building a WJ D44A axle

[Mtn WJ]

I am planning a build up of a D44A for my Son's 2000 WJ with a 4.0 Engine.

First I have a 2000 D44A open carrier axle with 3.73 gears as my son's D35 gears are 3.73s too. Only problem so far until I actually dig into the axle is it does not have brakes. I know the pads are the same part number between the 35 and 44 on the WJs and upon a preliminary review the brakes look like a direct swap from the D35 to the D44A. Anyone out there that has done this or can confirm/deny they are the same?

We plan to put an Aussie or Spartan locker in the carrier. I initially want the Aussie but it seems Spartans are easier to get. Opinions?

I want to do a basic truss to create a skid on the bottom of the center section. Any suggestions on best way to do this?
Here is a link to something I am thinking. http://www.mvcustoms-store.com/dana-44a-tru44.html I dont like how much of the truss is extended on the bottom of the tubes, so thinking something more discreet. Maybe something to handle the skid on the bottom and something more substancial on top that inter-connects with the A arm bracket.


Does the D44A really need a skid on the bottom? Thoughts? I am not in a hurry to get this thing under the Jeep so willing to do things to beef it up if practical.

What else would you do? The Jeep is running 32s now and will likely stay that way or be at 33s in the future.

I have found one D44A heavy duty diff cover from Blue Torch Fab. What else is out there?

[tjswj]

Brakes are all the same.

Spartans are easier to come by as Aussie only makes their 44a lockers in batches, and from what ive read there really isnt much of a difference as far as strenght/performance.

If its out, i would truss it. I believe MVC is no longer in business though so you will be looking at something custom.

Being a aluminum housing i would recommend a skid protecting the bottom, as over time (if you wheel in rocks) it will get scratched up.

If your only planning on running 33's, you have got all your bases covered (not much more out there aside from custom parts anyways). If you can afford it though i would recomend a re-gear for the 33's. Im running this setup up my 01 now (4.0L, 44a, 3.73's, and 33x12.5-15 mtr k's.) Its perfectly fine on the street, but on the highway it likes to kick out of OD on slight inclines. If i wasnt building bigger better axles, a regear would definitly be top priority. Its in no way no longer enjoyable though. Only other thing i would add is a quick scuff and paint just so it looks purdy.

Blue Torch is the ONLY company that makes a cover for the 44a, do yourself a favor and buy the pre-welded one as they are a bitch to put together and weld without a jig.

[Mtn WJ]

Thanks

Too bad about MVC. I was kind of thinking about getting one of their trusses and triming it down on the ends by the axle tubes.

I agree on the re-gear. My WJ 4.0 is running 4.56s and it made all the difference over the 3.73s and 4.10s I have run in the past.. This is my Son's DD and so far with the 32s it pulls decent on the mountain passes so we will leave it at 3.73s until such time he ready to make a lot of other significant mods.

[TN_WJ]

I replaced my d35 with a 44a a while back, wheeled it for a little while on 32s then a little while on 35's. I added a Spartan locker which was great and it held up fine to 2 bent shafts. However, the diff on mine was constantly leaving big silver stripes of aluminum on all the rocks around here so if I had planned on having it long term I might have looked into building a skid for it. I also didnt like how easily the housing flexed and bent shafts, so an 8.8 is in its place now. I agree with the previous statement though that youd be fine in the long run with 33's and a locker.

[Ken L]

Keith, would you truss it over the axle or under it? I'm not familiar with WJ axles but if you have room to go over I'd look at RuffStuff's truss. It looks beefy as heck and seems like it would outlast about anything. Here's the link to Dan's post on his stuff, with links to his website. http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthr...W-Axle-Trusses!

Good score! See, there was a reason that I didn't look at WJ axles for you when I was at all those junkyards last Saturday!

[Mtn WJ]

No kidding Ken,

I am more concerned about a bottom skid at the moment. I prefer to have something on the bottom that primarily covers the bottom of the center housing with minimal extension on the tubes. Then perhaps truss the top, but the problem with traditional trusses is the A-Arm connects to the top of the diff and I would need to do somethig custom until such time as he does long arms. (not for sometime) I could get a truss like RuffStuffs and cut it appart, then put a plate with bolts holes in it over the A-Arm mount of the diff and then weld in the truss pieces.

Where are you guys buying the Spartan's?

[TN_WJ]

Where are you guys buying the Spartan's?

It was a while ago but I'm pretty sure mine came from http://completeoffroad.com/i-5117392...-d44hd-30.html


Dont remember paying that price for it though.

[13bullets]

If you weren't so far away I'd sell you my 44a.

Here's a couple pics of my truss/skid. It was installed by the PO so I have no info for it, but maybe it'll give you an idea.

I also have a spartan, it was bought from ringpinion dot com for $258 two years ago. I recently stripped some of the teeth in it and the link above for $318 is the cheapest I've seen since I've been looking. I ended up buying a new coupler (a part of the locker) for $70, + $18 shipping for a 1.8lb part.

[tjswj]

i think this guy still has a used aussie for sale. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=549727

[fluxcap]

Definately do a skid. the soft aluminum pushes itself into the seal surface when draging over rocks and he will have chronic leaks. Looking at AP's old pics it shows he wore his bottom so thin the holes for the diff cover were almost exposed. Look at the truss/skid Scott has on his, he warned me against connecting the skid to the cover bolts, again, soft aluminum.

I have had my spartain 3 seasons now and have highly abused it. No Problem. Purchased at randys r&p. No cust service problems there yet either.

[quadratokn]

We've got something in the works, but it'll be a couple weeks before we get anything cut and test fitted.

The factory A arm bolts right up, and the truss is essentially a 2.25" spacer.

The skid will be sold separately, for those who don't want/need a full truss.








Blank truss for custom link brackets.

[AgitatedPancake]

Looks like they will be a solid pair of products man! I can't tell from your pictures, but I HIGHLY suggest trying the truss into the 3rd member via the factory bolt holes for D44a applications. Wether you just supply the customers with longer bolts to go all the way through your truss into the aluminum, or keep the OEM bolts to bolt the truss to the housing, then new bolts and nuts to bolt the balljoint to the truss up above it

[Mtn WJ]

I like the skid plate a lot. I would be very interested in getting one for my Son's 44A. In otherwords, sign me up for one.

The truss is nice too. However I have in mind something similar but instead of a thick bridge over the top, I would suggest using 3/8 plate over the top that connects the two axle tube side pillars. The plate A Arm will then bolt through the plate and into the top of the center section. This will then make the truss more compatable with the many different lift options and BBs too. Most of the WJ lifts bolt to the diff in place of the A Arm bolts. Those that dont will supply a purpose built truss to connect the control arms.

Otherwise I agree with Agitatedpancake to have the truss bolt to the center section, even with the larger cross bridge you are showing. Add a little more strength to the aluminum housing.

[quadratokn]

Thanks guys. I definitely agree about tying it into the housing, and was one of the first things decided to incorporate. Another hour or so of cad work and it'l be off to the laser cutter.

The only issue with a flush mounted truss is the lack of strength. There needs to be a 2.5" hole for ball joint clearance, which weakens the top plate significantly. The vertical support rib in the posted design is what gives the truss its strength.

The IRO long arm kit and adjustable A arm shouldn't have any clearance/fitment issues. We'll also have some link brackets drawn up to go with the blank truss, for those with claytons.

[Mtn WJ]

I would be interested in getting one of each. How long before one could be built for re-sale and how much do you think they will cost each?

[quadratokn]

We're having both cut in the next week for test fitting. If all goes as planned they'l be released in a couple weeks. As a rough estimate, were shooting for $165 for the truss and $65 for the skid.

[calvin]

Decent prices. I'd be in for a skid at least.


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[calvin]

We're having both cut in the next week for test fitting. If all goes as planned they'l be released in a couple weeks. As a rough estimate, were shooting for $165 for the truss and $65 for the skid.

Any news on these?


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[Pitch]

Keith, I would certainly add a nod to trussing and skidding it. I ended up bending deforming either the housing or the tube/housing interface on my built 44A. Once i went to 35's with the minispool in there, I kinda drove in a straight line through too many rock gardens... because I could. The soft aluminum could not withstand the abuse and I started burning up axle shafts. It was a quick end to an otherwise servicable axle.

[Mtn WJ]

Pitch,

I agree, and Kyle's WJ is on 32s and will be that way for sometime. Good news with 32s is easier on shafts, bad news is the axle is closer to the ground and will get more abuse. I plan to truss and skid the 44A.

[klong]

It looks like a great design and please keep us updated as I would be very interested as long as it works with the IRO long arm suspension.

[texlurch]

Would it be an option to make the truss with a built in spacer on top, same as the IRO one for 6 inch lifts? That would solve the "thin" issue across the top, plus give a sturdy attachment to the center section.

I ordered a TNT D44 truss thinking it will be the easiest to flip and make into a bottom truss. Should know how it will fit in another week. I asked TNT if they ever tried it on a D44A and they replied "nope, everything is specific to axle type".

[quadratokn]

This update is long overdue, but we're finally finished with the skid and truss. Just sent the files off to the laser cutter for the first batch.

The only prerequisite is that you have a 2" lift (BB's on top of sagging stock springs may have exhaust clearance issues). Both Clayton and IRO long arm brackets bolt right up.

Pricing is TBD, but we're still planning on $165 for the truss, and $75 for the skid.






Everything keys together for easy installation

[tjswj]

dude..... If I wasnt doing an axle swap, id be all over this. Nice work! Great price as well!

[Mtn WJ]

I am ready when you are.