|
I run a -98 5.9 with a 7" Clayton LA front and rear, JK axles and 37/14,5/16 Creepy Crawlers. The rear shocks are triangulated. The problem is that the Bilstein 5150 that came with the kit is way to soft for my taste. I run mainly in woods and rocks, no high speed. The car is not used as DD.
Any suggestions on what I should go for ? Adjustable MX6's ? Fox Air ? Doetsch 8000 ? or something else..
My buddy Sean runs dotesch 8000s and they are really stiff maybe give those a shot.
what valving are the 5150s?
5150's are being discontinued.
I'm running a set of 5165's (360/80) on my 4-linked XJ. Amazing ride quality.
My dad has basically your exact setup but runs 35's rather than 37's. He uses the MX-6 adjusted as firm as they will go. They work pretty well. I would venture part of your issue is that the Clayton 7" springs are super soft. The RK 7" are much stiffer if you can find a pair.
Does anyone wheel w/o shocks? maybe just run limiting straps? is this possible?
I've never actually driven or wheeled it, but a few years ago when the shop that installed my Clayton's kit was waiting on my shocks, they drove it around the parking lot and apparently it was like bouncing around like crazy...
Coil springs drop out a lot faster than leaf springs, so that's why leaf sprung vehicles can "get away" without running shocks (though I've seen leaf sprung rigs wheeled without shocks and it isn't pretty).
I would not recomend you driving it with out shocks i broke off both rear shocks once and at any speed over 25 the rear would start to bounce pretty violently.
Leaf springs have built in shock absorbtion through the friction between each of the leafs within the pack. Coil sprung vehicles are almost zero friction...with your shocks disconnected pump your bumper sometime and see how long it takes the bounce to stop haha. Rubicon express twin tube cheapies are nice and stiff, they worked well with mine triangulated. Honestly though, outboard your upper as much as possible without limiting your travel. Shocks are there to be used, i like to make full use :P
The triangulated rear shocks were my main disappointment with the Clayton's bracket kit. I completely understand why they did it that way because getting them vertical with a good amount of travel would require cutting into the rear cargo area -- which not everyone wants to do. I've considered getting adjustable shocks initally valved very stiffly to see if that helps any, but I have no experience with shock tuning to know whether they could be valved stiff enough to account for the angle. And if I modify things to run the shocks vertically-- I might as well just go to coilovers/air shocks.
I broke a rear shock when I was 'wheeling. Since I drive my Jeep to the trail, it was very interesting driving back home down the winding mountain roads. Tons of body roll and lean in addition to a bounce-bounce-bounce after every pot hole in the road. It bounced a bit more on the trail too. The 3 hours total that I only had one rear shock was plenty for me.
Maybe the issue with the OP's shocks seeming too soft is the triangulation. Triangulated shocks move less per bump than straight up and down shocks, therefore need to be stiffer to work better. Since my shocks are in the standard configuration, that's all I got.
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Thread Information |
Users Browsing this ThreadThere are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests) |