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Will find out tomorrow. It was a clayton weld that let go, but it was their 3-link bridge i had kind of used out of context as a truss to avoid welding upper link mount to the diff cast. I don't know what caused the rotation to start with though. Had just climbed a few fairly ugly waterfalls(3-4'ledges uphill with loose sand and lots of possibility for binding under articulation) but nothing i hadnt done before. The rotation occurred as i was driving down a hill afterward. Something may have locked up in tcase or diff or it could have been years of on-the-brake ledge descents taking their toll and the weld letting go after some hard twisting under load...
A few from today. Sorry all cell pics
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🐷🐑💃
Last edited by redneckrollercoaster; 04-13-2014 at 12:39 AM.
The last two are of my friend's 5.9, which broke at same time mine did. Zj didnt rep well today lol
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Brackets repaired and improved. Sexy welds by Mike at Vandal Customs here in durango. I need to get a camera...
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Took her out and broke her AGAIN today...haven't braced my steering box yet so I busted a tab. The box was sloppy as heck anyhow. Had been looking for the 4turn J20 box to upgrade with but its hit or miss at the parts stores, a crapshoot trying to find one thats not just a waggy box...Will post in wanted section, but does anyone happen to have a 4bolt box, preferably already tapped for assist, they'd want to part with? wife and kids will buy it for fathers' day. Allso need a brace. fortcollinszj had a sweet one for sale at one point last year...
Thanks guys. Found the j20 box at Vato Zone for $117+$77 core.
Got hydro fittings for it, just gonna tap the caps. Have a 1.5x6" ram but once i get the right pitman will probably need an 8".
Think 231 tcase is jacked up, it has a grinding whine and a clunk when i let off gas and coast...hopefully its not from rearend and telegraphing its way to beneath console area. Dont think so because it doesnt whine coasting in neutral gear.
God i need a shop, a happy place where i can slip away and get shit done!
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Last edited by redneckrollercoaster; 06-21-2014 at 11:30 PM.
Oh the j20 at vato zone is part #7538 for an 85 j20 truck.
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Last edited by redneckrollercoaster; 06-21-2014 at 11:29 PM.
What's the benefit of the j20 box?
Probably not the best box for power assist due to its slower turn ratio, but it has a larger cylinder(3.5", like durango box) four mounting holes instead of 3, and 4.2 turns lock-to-lock versus the stock 3.3. This all equates to more force being applied to turn larger tires. Will be plating mounting points, adding a fourth mounting bolt hole to unitbody rail, as well as a brace. Basically like going from a 1/4 ton 3:73 gear to a 4:56 3/4 ton.
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And my stock box has always given me issues popping and flexing; it had so much slop a trip down a dirt road was quite a thrill. I just like to upgrade in lieu of stock replacement
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Well the whine was from a pinion nut that somehow worked loose on the rearend. Replaced case anyhow. A friend has decided to flip a 300 tcase instead of doing a wide chain teralow 4:1 231 so he's offered me all the parts for that plus an sye kit for $400. Tempted...
The j20 box went in without any issues, splines and ports all the same. Just had to use some washers to space it out to keep it from trying to teeter totter against inner uniframe as it has a wider body than the stock one. Man not having an eighth turn dead spot in steering is nice but the slower ratio takes some getting used to. For fourth hole i found some 3/4" thickwall tubing and welded a washer to box end of it. Welded a larger washer to outside for it to push against. Way easier than i thought it'd be
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Idle hands do the devil's work.
These are just the inner bars to radiator support. Will be running outer bars from slider and ending on bumper and putting plate in between. Will also have to run a brace between inner bars for support and then trim hood to match taper of inners. The niner next to me is getting f250 axles and coilovers...i need some too so i can get 40-42's under mine
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loving the white guy.
Fenders are sick man good job! I've been thinking how I was going to support the
radiator weN I cut out the sheet metal behind the headlights
I love the dove nose. What are the plan for headlights?
Haven't decided on lights yet but when it comes together i'll figure it out. Think i'll put signal lights in bumper though. Yeah my thought was for dove bars to support radiator but now i kinda worry about a hard impact wrecking the radiator. I may change it from the two tube idea to one tube running to bumper with a kicker going to radiator support instead but i'm still deciding
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Sh*tty phone pic but cheapie driving lights and led blinkers for now, just in case i need to drive her. When i do the outer bars i'll go a different route and mount some led strips on the cut part of hood for signal lights. Are there highway legal, decent pattern led driving lights available, i wonder?
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As far as road legal led headlights, it's those truclights that are like 500 bucks for the xj and tjs /jks or those big eye jk lights. You can make your own with some Headlight hosting a you like and some projectors it's still not legal but I don't think they will pull you over for having modified your headlights
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Also got some 1/0 welding cable for battery relocation and made up cables from end to end for power and winch quick-connects. Due to the fact my muffler is right beneath rear passenger footwell right near framerail where it cooks the floor(i wrapped with header wrap to try and address this) i had to run cable along bottom of cage pillar and halo to the back. Put in a 600a killswitch in reach of anyone in the jeep and am wiring an aux fusebox to run accessories and whatnot
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Thanks JW and Four Go your lights put out a way nicer pattern than my el cheapo vato-zoners do lol
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Yea I don't think mine are road legal though lol but mine won't pass smog anyway so its all good
Still a work in progress. Put a tube around lower radiator support and hacked up a skidplate to protect lower portion of radiator. Welded skid to bumper, tapped holes and countersunk some flush bolts into the tube to facilitate removal of bumper. Goofy vent slots for cooling and so i can get my receiver pin in and out
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