Thread: front radius arms are done

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  1. #1 front radius arms are done 
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    Built using 2.5" JJ's, toob adapters to reuse the RE SF ends, some plate, and my pro crap uppers.



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    i got the crossmember from a JY jeep,and turns out it was claytons, so yes more structure will be added before its wheeled

    yes, i know theres a lack of exhaust, no front DS, and a leak.
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  2. #2 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Not bad, I was wondering why you were sticking with 3.5 inch, but it makes sense now. Nice arms. I wanna see how the 35's fit. I had to cut a LOT to get the travel i wanted, and im a lot higher. You could bumpstop the hell out of it, and just run all droop. What are your plans?
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  3. #3 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    overly tall lifts suck offroad and even worse on the street, imo. knowleage is power here, low COG is the best way to go, and i figue if you can do 35's with trimming at 4.5 why not try 3.5. yes bumpstopping will be the norm with limit straps controlling the droop, my front and rear fenders are already trimmed.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboy63b View Post
    overly tall lifts suck offroad and even worse on the street, imo. knowleage is power here, low COG is the best way to go, and i figue if you can do 35's with trimming at 4.5 why not try 3.5. yes bumpstopping will be the norm with limit straps controlling the droop, my front and rear fenders are already trimmed.
    Well said.

    Im 3.5 on 35s. Little bit of trimming.

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  5. #5 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    im basically cloning claytons kit by reusing as much as possable from my RE SF arms and F>R swap springs and buying 2.5 JJ's, to the everloving hell with short arms.
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  6. #6 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    The only possible issue I see is the ability to absorb bind. We all know how radius arms bind. The Clayton kit works so well because they use rubber bushings at all four axle connections. This is enough to absorb most, if not all the bind of a radius arm setup.

    It appears as though you only have rubber bushings on the upper axle side. The poly bushings in the upper-to-lower connections don't usually deflect much, nor do the SF or JJs. I consider the JJs to be the softer of the "hard joints" available, but still.

    I'd be curious to know how fast your front suspension chews through upper bushings. FWIW I have a Clayton kit on my DDZJ and am planning on replacing both ends of the short uppers with Clevite style rubber bushings. This will leave the JJ at the lower frame position as the only two non-rubber bushings in my whole front suspension, just to mediate the effects of bind and prolong bushing life.
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  7. #7 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboy63b View Post
    6154[/ATTACH]
    I know you said that you were gonna beef that up before running off road...I have some substantial reservations about the strength and safety of that setup. You have force comming from various directions there and I think the weakness is compounded here.
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  8. #8 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Quote Originally Posted by nosights View Post
    I know you said that you were gonna beef that up before running off road...I have some substantial reservations about the strength and safety of that setup. You have force comming from various directions there and I think the weakness is compounded here.
    So what are your reservations? I dont really see what you're saying. You have made no point. Just an FYI, this is basically a clayton setup, and yes they are welded on, not a bolt on kit, but once the rest of the subframe and rest of the bracketry is installed it will become a second "frame." Yeah there are front to back and side to side forces along with twisting, but thats where the flex joints come into play.
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  9. #9 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    I like the set-up, i've been looking to do the same thing to mine.. You said you got the clayton crossmember at the JY?! lucky find or what?
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  10. #10 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96CheepGC View Post
    I like the set-up, i've been looking to do the same thing to mine.. You said you got the clayton crossmember at the JY?! lucky find or what?

    yup just a lucky find, it was at the crusher, and i saw them, i asked how much they wanted for them, and they said how ever much the metal weighed, i think a paid 5 bucks for them.
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  11. #11 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    I am debating going radius arm but not putting the lock nut on. This leaves the upper arms free to rotate. Maybe just grease the threads and cover with expanding plastic sleeves (for shocks) then zip tie to keep out dirt. Any twisting is then accomidated by the axle side of the upper arm.
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  12. #12 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboy63b View Post
    yup just a lucky find, it was at the crusher, and i saw them, i asked how much they wanted for them, and they said how ever much the metal weighed, i think a paid 5 bucks for them.
    Hopefully you put the bolts in there since then too??

    Quote Originally Posted by ZJ TINS View Post
    I am debating going radius arm but not putting the lock nut on. This leaves the upper arms free to rotate. Maybe just grease the threads and cover with expanding plastic sleeves (for shocks) then zip tie to keep out dirt. Any twisting is then accomidated by the axle side of the upper arm.
    If you are going to do that, I would find some other method to allow that rotation than the threads. Your standard adjustable control arm threads are not designed to withstand those loads without a jam nut. Arlo knows a little bit about that.
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  13. #13 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZJ TINS View Post
    I am debating going radius arm but not putting the lock nut on. This leaves the upper arms free to rotate. Maybe just grease the threads and cover with expanding plastic sleeves (for shocks) then zip tie to keep out dirt. Any twisting is then accomidated by the axle side of the upper arm.
    Not quite. That would be of no benefit unless you want the "upper" of the radius arms to self-destruct (most likely by pulling apart under braking). Both upper joints in this type of radius-arm setup are primarily subject to tension and compression forces rather than articulation or twist.

    The best thing you could do for a radius-arm suspension is go with the largest diameter bushings you can reasonably fit at the axle (look at newer Super Dutys) to best accomodate the deflection bushings see in that setup. Or go with a well-designed and executed 3 link with a panhard bar and enjoy a better suspension.
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  14. #14 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaveZJ View Post
    Hopefully you put the bolts in there since then too??



    If you are going to do that, I would find some other method to allow that rotation than the threads. Your standard adjustable control arm threads are not designed to withstand those loads without a jam nut. Arlo knows a little bit about that.

    yes, and i know a little something about that to.
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  15. #15 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Cowboy63- I just ordered all the rod ends and inserts to build this exact set up, would you be willing to get me some measurements of the crossmember and brackets??
    I'll be going to the metal shop for some C channel, flat steel and rectangular tubing to build the crossmember sometime this week.
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  16. #16 Re: front radius arms are done 
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96CheepGC View Post
    Cowboy63- I just ordered all the rod ends and inserts to build this exact set up, would you be willing to get me some measurements of the crossmember and brackets??
    I'll be going to the metal shop for some C channel, flat steel and rectangular tubing to build the crossmember sometime this week.
    come to lufkin with something to cut it all off and ill let you have the links, brackets, front axle (with 4.56 gears but its low pinion) and what ever else you want off of it for a small price.
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